DIY Crochet Mesh Top Pattern: Your Complete Step-by-Step Guide
If you’ve been scrolling through summer fashion inspiration lately, chances are you’ve spotted the crochet mesh top trend making its glorious comeback. Lightweight, breathable, and endlessly customizable, a crochet mesh top is one of those wardrobe pieces that manages to look effortlessly stylish while also being genuinely fun to make. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter looking for a new challenge or an intermediate crafter ready to step up your skills, this DIY crochet mesh top pattern will walk you through everything you need — from materials and abbreviations all the way to finishing touches and styling ideas.
Let’s get into it.
Why Make Your Own Crochet Mesh Top?
Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about why making your own crochet mesh top is worth your time. Fast fashion has made it easy to buy something similar, sure, but a handmade mesh top carries a different kind of value. You choose the yarn, you control the fit, and you end up with a piece that no one else in the world has. Crochet also gives you flexibility that sewing doesn’t — the stitch structure naturally stretches, meaning minor sizing variations are easy to work around.
From a practical standpoint, the mesh structure (a series of chain spaces and double crochets) works up faster than a solid stitch fabric. Once you get into a rhythm, the rows fly by. This pattern is also a great steppingstone if you want to eventually tackle more complex garments, because you’ll get comfortable reading stitch counts, shaping armholes, and working pieces flat before seaming them together.
The finished top is perfect layered over a bikini at the beach, paired with high-waisted jeans for a boho evening look, or worn over a bralette as a festival outfit. Versatility is the name of the game.
Materials You’ll Need
Getting your materials together before you start will save you from mid-project frustration. Here’s what this pattern calls for.
For yarn, you’ll want a lightweight cotton or cotton-blend yarn, roughly a DK or fingering weight. Cotton is the ideal choice for a wearable mesh top because it’s breathable, holds its shape well, and doesn’t stretch out excessively the way acrylic can. Look for something labeled as size 1 (super fine) or size 3 (light) on the yarn weight symbol. You’ll need approximately 400 to 600 yards depending on your size, so grab two or three skeins to be safe. Popular choices include Paintbox Simply DK Cotton, Drops Safran, or Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton.
For hooks, a 3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook is typically the sweet spot for this weight of yarn, but always swatch first. The mesh structure is more open than a solid fabric, so you want a hook that creates defined stitches without making the fabric too stiff or too floppy.
You’ll also need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, a pair of scissors, stitch markers (at least four), and a flexible measuring tape for checking your gauge and body measurements.
Optional but helpful: blocking mats and pins if you want a really polished finish.
Sizing and Measurements
This pattern is written for six sizes. Before you begin, take your measurements so you know which size to follow. Measure your bust, waist, and hip circumference, as well as the length from your shoulder to wherever you want the hem to fall.
The sizes are as follows, listed as finished bust measurement with approximately 2 inches of positive ease built in. Extra small fits a 30 to 32 inch bust, small fits 33 to 35 inches, medium fits 36 to 38 inches, large fits 39 to 41 inches, extra large fits 42 to 44 inches, and 2X fits 45 to 48 inches. If you’re between sizes, size up, as the mesh will naturally have a little give.
This pattern is worked in two flat panels — a front and a back — that are then seamed at the sides and shoulders. This construction makes it easy to customize length, and it gives you a chance to try the pieces on as you go.
Gauge
Gauge matters more in garment making than almost any other crochet project, and it’s especially important here because the mesh fabric can grow quite a bit after washing and blocking.
Your target gauge is 16 stitches and 10 rows over 4 inches in the main mesh stitch pattern, after blocking. To make your gauge swatch, chain 25, then work the mesh pattern as described below for at least 15 rows. Wash and block your swatch the same way you plan to care for the finished top, let it dry completely, then measure. Adjust your hook size up or down as needed to match gauge. Going up a hook size will give you a looser, lacier fabric. Going down will make it tighter and more structured.
Don’t skip this step. A gauge that is even slightly off can mean a top that is several inches too big or too small once it’s finished.
Abbreviations
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.
ch means chain. sl st means slip stitch. sc means single crochet. dc means double crochet. ch-sp means chain space. st or sts means stitch or stitches. sk means skip. rep means repeat. RS means right side. WS means wrong side. t-ch means turning chain.
The main stitch pattern is a simple mesh made of double crochets and chain spaces, which creates that classic open, grid-like look. Once you’ve worked a few rows, it becomes almost meditative.
The Main Mesh Stitch Pattern
Before jumping into the full pattern, practice the mesh stitch on its own. Start with a foundation chain that is a multiple of 4 plus 3 (for example, 31, 35, 39, and so on).
Row 1 (RS): Dc in the 4th ch from hook (this skipped chain counts as your first dc), ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch. Repeat (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next ch) across. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 4 (counts as dc plus ch 1 here and throughout), dc in next dc, (ch 1, dc in next dc) across, ending with dc in top of t-ch from previous row. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 for the pattern. That’s it. This is the entire stitch repeat. The elegance of a mesh top is in its simplicity — the visual interest comes from the openwork grid itself, not from complicated stitch combinations.
Pattern: Front Panel
Begin by determining the number of foundation chains for your size. For extra small, chain 71. For small, chain 79. For medium, chain 87. For large, chain 95. For extra large, chain 103. For 2X, chain 111.
Foundation Row: Dc in 4th ch from hook, then work the mesh stitch pattern as described above across the foundation chain. You should have the following stitch counts at the end of this row (counting each dc and each ch-1 sp as one stitch unit): XS: 34 mesh units, S: 38 mesh units, M: 42 mesh units, L: 46 mesh units, XL: 50 mesh units, 2X: 54 mesh units. Place a stitch marker at each end of this row.
Continue working Row 2 of the mesh stitch pattern until the piece measures 14 inches from the bottom edge for a cropped length, or up to 18 inches if you prefer a longer top that grazes the hip. This is where the flexibility of a DIY pattern really shines — make it exactly the length you want. Try the panel against your body as you go to check.
Armhole Shaping
Once your panel has reached the desired body length, it’s time to shape the armholes. This is where the top takes on its garment structure.
At the beginning of the next row, slip stitch across the first 3 mesh units to move your yarn to the starting position for the armhole, then chain 4 and begin working your mesh pattern across, stopping 3 mesh units before the end of the row. Turn. You’ve now decreased 3 mesh units on each side.
Continue working straight in the mesh pattern on the reduced stitch count for the armhole section. Work until the armhole depth measures 6 inches for XS and S, 6.5 inches for M and L, and 7 inches for XL and 2X.
Neck and Shoulder Shaping
At this point you’ll divide the work for the left and right shoulder straps.
Work in mesh pattern across approximately one-third of your total stitch count (this will form one shoulder), then stop, leaving the remaining stitches unworked. Turn and work back across just these stitches for 1.5 to 2 inches to create the shoulder strap depth. Fasten off.
Rejoin yarn at the center to skip the neckline stitches (the middle third of your total count), and work the remaining one-third of stitches in the same way to create the second shoulder strap. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Pattern: Back Panel
The back panel is worked identically to the front panel through the armhole shaping section. Once your armhole depth is complete, instead of dividing for a neckline, you’ll work straight across all remaining stitches for the full armhole depth, creating a higher back that comes up to the base of the neck. This gives the top a nice contrast between the lower scoop neck in front and the more covered back, which also means it’s easier to wear with minimal undergarments if you choose.
Work the back panel until it matches the front in total length from bottom hem to the top of the shoulder. Fasten off.
Assembly
Lay your front and back panels flat, right sides facing each other. Use your yarn needle and a length of matching yarn to whipstitch or mattress stitch the side seams together. Seam from the hem up to the beginning of the armhole shaping on each side. Leave the armhole edges open and unseamed — this is where your arms will go.
Next, align the shoulder straps of the front and back panels. The front shoulder straps will sit on top of the back panel’s shoulder section. Seam across each shoulder to join the two pieces at the top.
Turn the top right side out. You now have a complete crochet mesh top shell. The seams on a mesh fabric are relatively unobtrusive since the openwork structure draws the eye away from the edges.
Finishing Touches
The finishing work is what separates a handmade piece that looks polished from one that looks unfinished, so take your time here.
Edging the armholes and neckline with a row of single crochet gives the openings a clean, defined border. Join yarn at any point along the armhole edge, work sc evenly all the way around, and slip stitch to join. Fasten off and weave in the end. Repeat for the neckline and, if you like, the hem as well.
For extra structure at the straps, you can work a second row of sc or even a simple crab stitch (reverse single crochet) edge, which creates a neat, rope-like border that doesn’t roll or curl.
Once all your ends are woven in, hand wash the top in cool water with a gentle detergent, gently squeeze out excess water (never wring), and block it to your measurements by laying it flat on a blocking mat and pinning it into shape. Blocking cotton crochet makes a remarkable difference — stitches even out, the mesh opens up beautifully, and the whole piece takes on a more professional appearance. Let it dry completely before wearing.
Tips for Customizing This Pattern
One of the best parts of making your own top is the ability to make it yours. Here are a few easy ways to customize this basic pattern.
You can add a tie detail at the front hem by leaving a long tail of yarn or cutting a separate length and threading it through the bottom mesh row and tying it at the center front. This creates a cropped, cinched silhouette.
Stripes are simple to add since the mesh pattern is worked in straight rows — just switch yarn colors at the end of any row to create horizontal color blocks or a striped gradient.
If you want a more structured look, try adding a solid sc border of 2 to 4 rows at the hem before beginning the mesh pattern. This creates a solid band at the bottom that gives the top a little more body and prevents the hem from flaring.
You can also experiment with yarn texture. A mercerized cotton will give you a smooth, slightly shiny fabric, while an undyed or matte cotton has a more organic, earthy feel. Linen-cotton blends are particularly beautiful for this type of project as they get softer with every wash.
Caring for Your Finished Top
Cotton crochet garments are generally easy to care for, but a few habits will help your top last longer. Always hand wash or use the delicate cycle with cold water. Lay flat to dry rather than hanging, which can cause the piece to stretch out of shape under its own weight. Avoid high heat in the dryer, as this can cause cotton to shrink and can also degrade the fibers over time.
Store your top folded rather than hung for the same reason, especially if it’s made from a softer or more loosely spun yarn.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a beginner make this top? This pattern is best suited for someone with a comfortable working knowledge of chain, double crochet, and basic shaping. If you can work in rows and are comfortable reading a pattern, you should be able to tackle it with patience and a test swatch. Complete beginners may want to practice the mesh stitch for several inches before committing to the full project.
How long does it take to make? Most people complete both panels and the finishing in roughly 10 to 15 hours of working time, spread over a few days or a week. The mesh pattern works up quickly once you’re in the groove.
What if the top is too big when I finish? Block it slightly smaller by pinning the pieces closer together while wet. Cotton has a small amount of give in either direction when wet. If it’s significantly too large, you can also add extra rows of sc edging along the sides to bring the width in.
Can I use a different yarn weight? Yes, but adjust your hook accordingly and definitely swatch. A heavier weight yarn will create a chunkier mesh and use significantly more yardage. A finer lace weight will create an extremely delicate, sheer fabric that requires more rows and stitches to reach the same dimensions.
Final Thoughts
A DIY crochet mesh top is one of those projects that manages to be satisfying on multiple levels. The stitch pattern is simple enough to be meditative but interesting enough to keep you engaged, and the finished piece is something you’ll genuinely want to wear. There’s also something quietly radical about making your own clothes — you invest time instead of money, you create something sized for your actual body, and you end up with a deeper appreciation for the craft behind every garment you put on.
Take your time with the swatch, trust the shaping, and don’t rush the finishing. Once you’ve made one, you’ll almost certainly want to make another in a different colorway or yarn weight, and that’s the real magic of crochet: every project teaches you something that makes the next one better.
Happy crocheting, and wear your handmade top with pride.
