DIY Crochet Mesh Top Pattern: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide
There’s something deeply satisfying about wearing something you made with your own hands. A crochet mesh top is one of those projects that looks incredibly impressive but is actually far more approachable than most beginners expect. With its open, airy structure and endless styling possibilities, a mesh top is a wardrobe staple that works over a bikini at the beach, layered over a bodysuit for a night out, or paired with high-waisted jeans for a bohemian afternoon look. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to create your very own crochet mesh top from scratch, including materials, pattern notes, sizing, stitch instructions, and finishing tips.
Whether you’re a beginner picking up a crochet hook for the first time or an intermediate crocheter looking for a wearable project you’ll actually use, this pattern is designed to be clear, achievable, and customizable.
What You’ll Need Before You Start
Getting your materials together before you begin makes the whole process smoother. Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll need.
Yarn: For a mesh top, you want a lightweight yarn that drapes well and won’t feel heavy or stiff. Cotton yarn is the gold standard for warm-weather garments. Look for a DK weight or fingering weight cotton yarn in whatever color speaks to you. Neutral tones like ivory, beige, and sage are perennial favorites, but a bold coral or cobalt blue can look stunning too. You’ll need approximately 400–600 yards depending on your size and how long you want the top to be.
Hook: A 4.0 mm or 4.5 mm crochet hook works well with DK weight cotton. If your tension tends to run tight, size up to a 5.0 mm. Always swatch before you commit to a hook size, because tension affects the drape and fit of the finished garment more than almost anything else.
Notions: You’ll want a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (at least four), a measuring tape, and a notepad or row counter to track your progress.
Gauge: For this pattern, the target gauge is approximately 16 stitches and 8 rows per 4 inches in the mesh stitch pattern. Crochet a swatch at least 6 inches square, wash and block it, and then measure. This step is not optional if you want your top to fit well. A difference of even one stitch per inch can mean a garment that’s several inches too large or too small.
Understanding Mesh Stitch
The mesh stitch is the backbone of this top, and it’s beautifully simple once you get the hang of it. It creates an open, grid-like fabric made up of chain spaces and single crochets or double crochets. The result is a breathable, lightweight textile that looks lacy without requiring any complex lace techniques.
The basic mesh stitch used in this pattern works as follows:
Chain an even number of stitches for your foundation. Then work in rows of chain-2 spaces and single crochets (or double crochets if you prefer a taller, more open mesh). The rhythm becomes second nature after just a few rows, and you’ll find yourself moving quickly once your hands get used to it.
For this pattern, we’ll use a double crochet mesh, which gives the top a slightly more open and elegant drape.
The stitch pattern (worked flat):
Row 1 (foundation row): Chain a multiple of 3, plus 4. Double crochet in the 8th chain from the hook. Chain 2, skip 2 chains, double crochet in the next chain. Repeat from to across. Turn.
Row 2: Chain 5, turn. Double crochet in the next double crochet, chain 2. Repeat across, ending with a double crochet in the 3rd chain of the turning chain. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 for the pattern. That’s it. The entire body of this top is built on that single repeated row.
Sizing and Measurements
This pattern is written for sizes XS through XL, with notes on how to adjust further. Crochet garments are wonderfully customizable, and mesh tops in particular are forgiving because of the stretch and drape built into the fabric.
Here are the finished bust measurements to aim for. You want about 2–4 inches of positive ease for a relaxed, flowy fit, or 0–2 inches for something more fitted.
XS: 30–32 inch bust, finished top measures approximately 32–34 inches around
S: 33–35 inch bust, finished top measures approximately 35–37 inches around
M: 36–38 inch bust, finished top measures approximately 38–40 inches around
L: 39–41 inch bust, finished top measures approximately 41–43 inches around
XL: 42–44 inch bust, finished top measures approximately 44–46 inches around
The top is designed to hit at the natural waist for a cropped silhouette, measuring approximately 14–16 inches from the underarm to the hem. If you want a longer top, simply add more rows before you begin the hem border.
Pattern Instructions: The Body
This top is worked in two flat panels (front and back) that are then seamed together. This construction method is beginner-friendly and allows you to try the top on as you go to check fit.
Foundation Chain:
For size medium (adjust up or down based on your gauge swatch), chain 85. Your chain should measure approximately 20 inches. If it’s longer or shorter than that, adjust your chain count until you hit 20 inches, making sure to keep a multiple of 3 plus 4 extra for the turning chain.
Row 1: Double crochet in the 8th chain from the hook. Chain 2, skip 2 chains, double crochet in the next chain. Repeat across. You should have approximately 27 mesh spaces. Turn.
Rows 2 onward: Chain 5, double crochet in the next double crochet, chain 2. Repeat across, ending with a double crochet in the 3rd chain of the turning chain. Turn.
Continue repeating Row 2 until your panel measures 14 inches from the foundation chain edge, or your desired length to the underarm.
Make two identical panels.
Shaping the Armholes
Once your panels reach the underarm point, you’ll shape the armholes by working fewer stitches across each row.
At the beginning of the next row, slip stitch across the first 2 mesh spaces (this means slip stitching across 6 stitches or so to move past those spaces without adding height). Then work your chain 5 turning chain and continue in pattern across until 2 mesh spaces remain on the other side. Do not work those final 2 spaces. Turn.
Continue in pattern across the reduced width for approximately 8 more rows, or until the armhole measures about 6–7 inches deep. This completes the front (or back) panel with armhole shaping.
Repeat for the second panel.
Shaping the Neckline
For a simple scoop neck on the front panel, you’ll divide your work at the center when you have about 3–4 rows left before the shoulder.
Work across the first half of the stitches, stop at the center, and turn. Work 3 more rows on this side only, creating a gentle diagonal by decreasing one mesh space at the inner neck edge every row. Fasten off.
Rejoin yarn to the center of the work for the other shoulder and repeat on the opposite side.
For the back panel, continue straight across without shaping for a higher, straighter back neckline.
Assembling the Top
Lay your two panels on a flat surface with wrong sides facing each other. Use stitch markers to pin the shoulder seams and side seams before you commit to sewing.
Shoulder seams: Use your yarn needle and a length of yarn to whip stitch or slip stitch the shoulders together, leaving a space in the center front that matches your neckline shaping. The shoulder seam on each side should be about 2–3 inches wide for most sizes.
Side seams: Join the side seams from the hem upward, stopping when you reach the armhole shaping. Leave the armhole open. You want the side seam to end about 1 inch below where your armhole shaping begins, so the top fits comfortably over your shoulders and doesn’t pull.
Adding the Borders
Borders give your mesh top a polished, finished look and help stabilize the edges so they don’t curl or stretch out of shape.
Hem border: Join yarn at any point along the bottom edge. Work 1 round of single crochet evenly around the entire hem. Then work a second round of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch), which creates a neat, rope-like edge. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Armhole borders: Join yarn at the underarm seam. Work 1 round of single crochet around each armhole, decreasing gently at the corners to keep the edge flat. Work a second round of reverse single crochet. Fasten off.
Neckline border: Join yarn at a shoulder seam and work 1 round of single crochet around the entire neckline, paying attention to the curved areas and decreasing slightly around the scoop of the front neck to prevent flaring. Finish with reverse single crochet.
Blocking and Finishing
Blocking is the step that transforms a crochet project from “homemade” to “handcrafted.” It evens out your stitches, opens up the mesh pattern beautifully, and helps the garment settle into its final shape.
Wash your finished top gently by hand in cool water with a mild soap. Roll it in a clean towel to remove excess water — never wring or twist. Lay it flat on a blocking mat or a clean dry towel and use rust-proof pins to shape it to your measurements. Let it dry completely before removing the pins. Cotton yarn tends to dry fairly quickly, but give it at least 24 hours.
Once blocked and dry, do a final check for any loose ends or gaps in your seams, then weave in all remaining ends securely.
Customization Ideas
One of the best things about making your own crochet mesh top is that you can adapt it endlessly. Here are some ways to make this pattern your own.
Add straps: If you want spaghetti straps instead of the wider shoulder seam style, reduce the shoulder seam width and attach two thin crocheted chains or cord straps that tie at the top. This works beautifully for a more delicate, summery look.
Try color: Work alternating rows in two colors for a striped mesh effect. Because each row is self-contained, switching colors is easy and the result looks intentional and striking.
Lengthen the top: Add 5–8 extra rows before beginning the armhole shaping and you’ll have a top that hits below the hip rather than at the waist. Pair it with bike shorts or a slip skirt for a more modest, layered look.
Change the neckline: Skip the scoop shaping on the front and keep both panels identical for a simple square neck. Or shape a deeper V-neck by starting your neckline division earlier and decreasing more aggressively toward the shoulder.
Add fringe: At the hem, cut lengths of yarn approximately 8 inches long and fold them in half. Use your crochet hook to pull the folded loop through a mesh space at the hem, then pull the ends through the loop and tighten. Trim to an even length for a bohemian fringe hem.
Tips for Getting a Great Fit
Measuring yourself accurately is the most important step in garment crochet. Take your bust, waist, and hip measurements and compare them to the finished garment measurements before you start. If you fall between sizes, go up a size and plan to wear the top with a slightly more relaxed fit, or go down and use a smaller hook for a snugger result.
Try the top on at several stages throughout the project. Because you’re working flat panels, you can hold a finished panel against yourself before seaming to check the width. The armhole shaping can also be adjusted at the last minute if you find your panels are running shorter or longer than expected.
If your mesh is coming out too stiff, switch to a larger hook or try a bamboo-cotton blend yarn, which tends to drape more softly than 100% cotton. If your mesh is too floppy or stretched out, try a smaller hook or add an extra row of single crochet border at the hem and armholes to stabilize things.
Caring for Your Crochet Mesh Top
Cotton crochet garments are actually quite durable and easy to care for, which is one of the reasons they’re such a great investment of your time. Hand wash in cool water whenever possible to preserve the shape and softness of the yarn. If you machine wash, use a mesh laundry bag on a gentle or delicate cycle with cold water. Always lay flat to dry rather than hanging, since hanging can stretch a mesh top out of shape over time.
Store your top folded rather than on a hanger. Over a season of regular wear, it may need a quick re-blocking to refresh the mesh pattern and even out any stretched areas.
Final Thoughts
A DIY crochet mesh top is one of those projects that pays you back far more than it asks from you. The pattern is repetitive in the best way, meaning you can work on it while watching a movie or sitting outside on a warm afternoon. The finished result is something genuinely wearable, beautiful, and made entirely by you.
If you’ve never crocheted a garment before, this is an excellent starting point. The mesh stitch is forgiving, the construction is logical, and the customization options mean you can adjust the pattern to suit your personal style. Once you’ve made one, you’ll likely want to make another in every color of the rainbow.
Take your time, enjoy the process, and don’t skip the blocking step. The difference it makes is remarkable. Share your finished top with the hashtag #crochetmeshtop so others in the community can see what you’ve created, and don’t be afraid to share your modifications — the best patterns are the ones that evolve as more people make them their own.
