Easy Crochet Mesh Top Tutorial | Openwork Summer Crochet Top Pattern Step by Step
There is something undeniably satisfying about wearing something you made yourself, especially when that something is a breezy, openwork top that looks like it came straight from a boutique shelf. A crochet mesh top is one of those projects that appears complex from the outside but is genuinely approachable once you understand the stitch pattern. It works up quickly, uses minimal yarn, and the result is a lightweight, airy piece perfect for warm weather layering, beach cover-ups, or casual summer outings.
This tutorial will walk you through everything you need to know to crochet your own openwork mesh top from start to finish. Whether you are a beginner who has mastered basic stitches or an intermediate crocheter looking for a satisfying warm-weather project, this pattern is designed to be flexible, forgiving, and fun. By the end, you will have a gorgeous summer top you can style a dozen different ways.
What Is a Crochet Mesh Top?
A crochet mesh top is constructed using an open, net-like stitch pattern that creates a grid of holes throughout the fabric. Unlike dense crochet fabrics made with single or double crochets worked tightly together, mesh fabric is built on a framework of chain spaces and taller stitches like double crochets or treble crochets. The result is a fabric that is light, stretchy, and perfectly suited to hot weather because air moves freely through all those beautiful little gaps.
Mesh crochet has been popular for decades, but it has seen a major resurgence in recent years as the fashion world embraced the relaxed, bohemian aesthetic of handmade knitwear and crochet. You will find similar tops in surf shops, festival markets, and beachwear boutiques at prices that can make your eyes water. Making your own means you can customize the fit, choose any color you love, and have the pride of knowing you created it yourself.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin, gather your materials. Having everything ready before you start makes the process smooth and enjoyable.
Yarn: For a true summer mesh top, you want a lightweight yarn in a natural fiber or a breathable blend. Cotton is the most popular choice because it is cool against the skin, holds its shape well, and washes easily. Look for a DK weight or light worsted weight 100% cotton yarn, or a cotton-linen blend for extra drape and a slight sheen. You will need approximately 300 to 500 yards depending on your size, with smaller sizes requiring less and larger sizes requiring more.
Hook: A 4.0mm to 5.0mm crochet hook works beautifully with DK to light worsted weight cotton. Because mesh fabric is intentionally open, you can go up a hook size from what the yarn label recommends without worrying about the fabric being too loose. In fact, a slightly larger hook gives you that gorgeous drapey quality.
Notions: You will need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, a measuring tape, and optionally a spray bottle with water for blocking your finished piece.
Gauge: Approximately 14 stitches and 8 rows in the mesh pattern equals 4 inches by 4 inches with a 4.5mm hook and DK weight cotton. Always swatch before beginning, especially if you are making a fitted top, because gauge affects how the garment fits.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is written for sizes Small through Extra Large. Here are the approximate finished measurements to help you choose your size.
Small: Bust 32 to 34 inches, finished garment width 17 inches per panel, total circumference approximately 34 inches.
Medium: Bust 35 to 37 inches, finished garment width 19 inches per panel, total circumference approximately 38 inches.
Large: Bust 38 to 40 inches, finished garment width 21 inches per panel, total circumference approximately 42 inches.
Extra Large: Bust 41 to 44 inches, finished garment width 23 inches per panel, total circumference approximately 46 inches.
Because mesh fabric has natural stretch and this top is designed with a relaxed, slightly oversized fit, it is generally recommended to choose the size closest to your actual bust measurement rather than sizing up. The openwork nature of the fabric means it will ease and stretch comfortably over curves.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern uses US crochet terminology.
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
sp = space
rep = repeat
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
sk = skip
st = stitch
The mesh stitch used throughout this pattern is created with a simple two-stitch repeat: one double crochet, followed by a chain-1 space, and then skip one stitch in the foundation or previous row. This creates the classic grid pattern that gives the top its openwork appearance.
Understanding the Mesh Stitch
Before diving into the full pattern, it helps to practice the mesh stitch on a small swatch so the rhythm becomes automatic.
Foundation chain: Chain any even number of stitches plus 3 for your turning chain.
Row 1: Starting in the 5th chain from the hook (which counts as dc and ch-1), work 1 dc. Then chain 1, skip 1 chain, and work 1 dc into the next chain. Continue this pattern across the row. Turn.
Row 2: Chain 4 (counts as dc and ch-1). Work 1 dc into the first ch-1 space of the previous row. Chain 1, then work 1 dc into the next ch-1 space. Continue across, working your last dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 for the mesh pattern throughout the entire pattern.
Once you have worked a few rows, you will see the grid forming and the rhythm will feel very natural. The key is to always work into the chain-1 spaces of the previous row, not into the top of the double crochets.
The Pattern: Front Panel
This top is constructed in two flat panels — a front and a back — that are seamed together along the sides and shoulders. This construction method is one of the most beginner-friendly ways to make a garment because you never have to work in the round or manage complex shaping while simultaneously maintaining a stitch pattern.
Foundation: Chain 62 (72, 80, 88) for sizes S (M, L, XL).
Row 1 (Foundation Mesh Row): Starting in the 5th ch from hook, work 1 dc, ch 1, sk 1 ch, 1 dc in next ch, repeat from to across. You will have 30 (35, 39, 43) ch-1 spaces. Turn.
Rows 2 through 28 (Body): Chain 4, 1 dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch-1 space, repeat across, end with 1 dc in top of turning chain. Turn.
Continue in this mesh pattern until the piece measures approximately 14 inches from the foundation for a crop top length, or 18 inches for a longer, more relaxed length. You can adjust the length here to suit your personal preference — this is one of the great advantages of this construction.
Armhole Shaping:
Once your body reaches the desired length, you will create the armhole openings by working only across the center portion of the row.
Slip stitch across the first 5 (6, 7, 8) ch-1 spaces. Chain 4, then work in the mesh pattern across the next 20 (23, 25, 27) ch-1 spaces. Leave the remaining stitches unworked. Turn.
Continue working in the mesh pattern on these center stitches only for 7 more rows. This forms the front of the top from the armhole up to the shoulder.
Neckline Shaping:
On the next row, work in mesh pattern across the first 7 (8, 9, 10) ch-1 spaces only. This forms the left shoulder strap. Work 6 to 8 more rows on these stitches alone, then fasten off.
Rejoin yarn to the center, skip the middle 6 (7, 7, 7) ch-1 spaces for the neckline opening, and work in mesh pattern across the remaining 7 (8, 9, 10) ch-1 spaces for the right shoulder strap. Work the same number of rows as the left strap, then fasten off.
The Pattern: Back Panel
The back panel is worked identically to the front panel right up through the armhole shaping. The only difference is in the neckline.
Work all rows identically to the front panel body and armhole shaping. When you reach the neckline shaping rows, instead of creating a deep scooped neck, work across the full width of the back panel for an additional 4 rows before splitting for the shoulder straps. This gives the back a slightly higher neckline with a more modest opening.
Split for back shoulder straps as follows: work in mesh pattern across the first 7 (8, 9, 10) ch-1 spaces for 4 rows, fasten off. Skip the middle ch-1 spaces, rejoin yarn, and work the right back strap for 4 rows. Fasten off.
Seaming the Top Together
Lay your front and back panels flat with right sides facing each other. Using your yarn needle and a length of matching yarn, seam the side edges together using a whip stitch or mattress stitch from the hem up to the armhole markers. Leave the armhole openings unsewn — these will be finished with a simple edging rather than seamed.
Next, align the shoulder straps and seam them together at the top edges. The front and back straps should be the same length, so they will line up neatly. Weave in all ends securely.
Turn the top right side out and try it on or place it on a dress form to check the fit before finishing.
Adding the Edging
A simple, clean edging makes all the difference in how polished a finished crochet garment looks. For this mesh top, a single round of single crochet around all openings gives a neat, professional finish without adding bulk or competing with the mesh pattern.
Hem edging: Join yarn at the side seam at the bottom edge. Work 1 sc in each stitch and space evenly around the entire hem. Slip stitch to join. Fasten off.
Armhole edging: Join yarn at the underarm seam on one armhole. Work 1 sc evenly around the entire armhole opening. Adjust the stitch count as needed to keep the edge flat and smooth without puckering. Slip stitch to join. Fasten off. Repeat for the second armhole.
Neckline edging: Join yarn at a shoulder seam. Work 1 sc evenly around the entire neckline opening, including both the front scoop and the back neck. Slip stitch to join. Fasten off.
If you prefer a slightly more decorative edge, you can work a reverse single crochet (also called a crab stitch) instead of a standard single crochet on any of these edgings. The reverse single crochet creates a subtle rope-like texture that frames the openings beautifully.
Blocking Your Finished Top
Blocking is the process of wetting your finished piece and shaping it while it dries to set the stitches, even out any tension inconsistencies, and help the fabric drape exactly as intended. For cotton yarn, blocking makes an especially noticeable difference because cotton relaxes and opens up when wet, allowing the mesh pattern to really bloom and show off its openwork quality.
To wet block your top, soak it in cool water for about 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing, then roll it in a clean towel to absorb more moisture. Lay it flat on a blocking mat or clean dry towel and pin it to the correct dimensions using rust-proof blocking pins. Pay special attention to the neckline, armholes, and hem edges, pinning them into smooth, even lines. Allow it to dry completely before removing the pins. This usually takes several hours or overnight depending on your climate.
The difference between a blocked and unblocked crochet garment is striking. Blocking transforms a slightly uneven fabric into something that looks genuinely refined and wearable.
Styling Your Crochet Mesh Top
One of the best things about a mesh top is its incredible versatility. Because of the openwork construction, it works beautifully as a layering piece over a bandeau, bralette, or swimsuit top. The glimpses of color beneath the mesh create a stunning visual effect that looks intentional and fashion-forward.
For a beach or poolside look, wear it over a bright bikini top with high-waisted linen shorts and sandals. For a boho festival vibe, layer it over a floral bralette with wide-leg denim and platform sandals. For an elevated casual look, wear it over a silk slip or cami with tailored trousers and mules. You can also wear it as a beach cover-up thrown over your swimsuit — it dries quickly, packs small, and looks infinitely more chic than a standard beach sarong.
The mesh top also looks gorgeous in every color, so do not limit yourself to neutrals. A deep terracotta or rust tone feels earthy and grounded. Soft sage green reads as natural and effortlessly cool. Classic white or cream is always crisp and timeless. And if you are feeling bold, a bright coral or sunny yellow is absolutely joyful for summer.
Tips for Success
A few practical suggestions will help your project go smoothly from start to finish.
Count your stitches at the end of every row, especially in the first several rows of the body. It is very easy to accidentally work into a stitch instead of a space or skip a space when you are getting familiar with the rhythm, and catching mistakes early saves you from having to frog many rows later.
Use stitch markers generously. Placing a marker at the beginning of each row and at any key transition point like the armhole shaping helps you keep your place and prevents confusion, especially if you set the project down between sessions.
When working into the turning chain at the end of a row, make sure to insert your hook into the correct loop of the chain. This keeps your edge stitches even and prevents the sides from drawing in or flaring out.
If your tension tends to run tight, go up a hook size. If it runs loose, go down a hook size. The mesh pattern should look open and airy without gaps that are so large the fabric loses structure.
Block as you go if desired. Blocking each panel before seaming can make the finishing process easier and more precise, allowing you to pin the panels to exact measurements and ensure both sides match perfectly.
Making It Your Own
Patterns are starting points, not rules. Once you understand the basic construction and mesh stitch, you can adapt this top in countless ways to suit your style and skill level.
Add fringe along the hem by cutting lengths of yarn and looping them through the bottom edge stitches for a festive, bohemian look. Work the top in two or more colors, changing yarn at the end of a row to create horizontal stripes. Add a waistband by working several rows of single crochet at the natural waist point to define the silhouette. Make it longer for a tunic that can be belted or worn loose over leggings. Add sleeves by picking up stitches around the armhole openings and working downward in rows for a flutter sleeve effect.
The mesh stitch itself can also be varied. A chain-2 space instead of chain-1 creates a more open grid. Treble crochets instead of double crochets add height and make each mesh square taller. These small changes shift the whole character of the fabric, giving you endless room to experiment and make every version uniquely your own.
Final Thoughts
A handmade crochet mesh top is one of those wardrobe pieces that pays off in every way — it costs relatively little to make, works up more quickly than most crochet garments, and earns you endless compliments every time you wear it. The openwork construction that might look intimidating at first glance is actually one of the most forgiving and rhythmic stitch patterns you will encounter in crochet. Once the row repeat clicks, you will find yourself making steady progress in a pleasantly meditative way.
Take your time with the gauge swatch, choose a cotton you love to work with, and do not skip the blocking step at the end. Those small investments of care are what transform a crochet project from merely finished to genuinely beautiful.
Happy crocheting, and enjoy every warm, breezy day you wear this top.
