Easy Crochet Mesh Top Tutorial | Openwork Summer Crochet Top Pattern Step by Step
There is something deeply satisfying about wearing something you made yourself, especially when that something is a breezy, stylish mesh top perfectly suited for warm weather. Crochet mesh tops have become one of the most beloved summer projects in the fiber arts community, and for good reason. They work up quickly, use relatively little yarn, and the open stitch structure keeps you cool even on the hottest days. Whether you are a beginner who has mastered the basics or an intermediate crocheter looking for a fun seasonal project, this tutorial will walk you through every step of creating your very own openwork summer crochet top.
Before we dive in, let’s talk about what makes a mesh top such a fantastic choice. Unlike dense, heavily textured garments, a mesh top uses open lacework stitches that create a lightweight fabric with natural airflow. The pattern we are working with today uses a simple grid or net stitch, which is beginner-friendly but looks impressively polished when finished. You can wear this top over a bikini at the beach, layered over a camisole for a boho festival look, or styled with high-waisted linen pants for a casual chic afternoon outfit. The versatility alone makes it worth every stitch.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials together before you start makes the whole process smoother. Here is what you will need for this project.
Yarn: Choose a lightweight yarn for the best results. A size 3 (light DK) or size 2 (fine/sport weight) cotton yarn is ideal for summer wearables because cotton is breathable, durable, and holds its shape well. You can also use a cotton-blend or bamboo yarn for a slightly drapier finish. For a standard women’s small or medium, plan on roughly 300 to 400 yards. For a larger size, bump that up to 450 to 550 yards. Light, neutral, or pastel colors tend to show the open stitch pattern most beautifully, though bold colors look stunning too.
Hook: A 4.0 mm (G/6) or 4.5 mm (G/7) crochet hook works well with light cotton yarn and gives you a lovely open mesh fabric. If you tend to crochet tightly, go up half a size. If you crochet loosely, go down half a size.
Notions: You will also need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, a measuring tape, and stitch markers. Stitch markers are especially helpful when you are working in the round and need to track the beginning of each round.
Optional: Blocking mats and pins are wonderful for finishing cotton garments. Blocking evens out the stitches and opens up the mesh beautifully, giving your finished top a polished, professional look.
Understanding the Stitch: The Mesh or Net Stitch
The foundation of this pattern is the mesh stitch, sometimes called the net stitch or lattice stitch. It is created by alternating chain spaces with single crochet, half double crochet, or double crochet stitches. The version we are using here is built on chains and double crochets, which creates a classic open square grid.
Here is the basic mesh stitch repeat you will use throughout this pattern:
Foundation row / round: Chain a multiple of 4 stitches plus any additional chains needed for turning or setup.
Mesh row: Double crochet into the specified stitch, chain 2, skip 2 stitches, double crochet into the next stitch. Repeat across.
Following rows: Chain 4 to turn (counts as first double crochet plus chain 2), double crochet into the next double crochet from the previous row, chain 2, and continue in pattern.
This creates a beautiful grid of open squares that looks intricate but is actually very rhythmic and easy to memorize after the first few rows.
Gauge and Sizing
Before you begin your top, it is important to crochet a gauge swatch. Gauge determines how large or small your finished garment will be, and skipping this step can result in a top that does not fit the way you want.
To check gauge, chain 20 stitches and work 10 rows of mesh stitch. Your swatch should measure approximately 4 inches by 4 inches with the recommended hook and yarn. If your swatch is larger than 4 inches across, go down a hook size. If it is smaller, go up a hook size.
Sizing chart for this pattern:
This pattern is written for sizes XS/S (32-34 inch bust), M/L (36-38 inch bust), and XL/2XL (40-44 inch bust). The measurements given are for the finished garment with approximately 2 to 4 inches of positive ease, meaning the top will be slightly larger than your actual measurements for a relaxed, comfortable fit. For a mesh top, a little positive ease is preferable because it allows the open fabric to drape naturally without pulling or distorting.
For XS/S: Chain 120 stitches to start.
For M/L: Chain 140 stitches to start.
For XL/2XL: Chain 160 stitches to start.
Pattern Instructions: Easy Crochet Mesh Top
This top is worked in two flat panels (front and back) that are then seamed together at the shoulders and sides, leaving openings for the armholes. Alternatively, you can work it in the round for the body and then split it for the upper section, which is noted below.
Step 1: Foundation Chain
Begin by chaining your foundation number based on your size (120, 140, or 160 chains). Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, being very careful not to twist your chain. Place a stitch marker at the join to mark the beginning of your round.
If you prefer to work flat panels, simply chain your foundation number and do not join. You will work back and forth in rows and seam the panels together later.
Step 2: Working the Body (Rows 1 through 12)
Round/Row 1: Chain 4 (this counts as your first double crochet plus a chain 2 space). Skip the first 2 chains, double crochet into the third chain, chain 2, skip 2 chains, double crochet into the next chain, repeat from to around (or across if working flat). If working in the round, join to the top of the beginning chain 4 with a slip stitch.
Round/Row 2: Chain 4, turn (for flat) or slip stitch across to the first chain 2 space (for in the round). Double crochet into the first chain 2 space, chain 2, double crochet into the next chain 2 space, repeat from to around or across. Join if working in the round.
Repeat Row/Round 2 until your work measures approximately 12 to 14 inches from the foundation chain, or your desired body length. This section forms the main body of the top, from the hem up to the underarm.
Tip: For a cropped top, stop at around 10 to 12 inches. For a longer top that hits at the hip, work until the piece is 15 to 16 inches long.
Step 3: Dividing for Front and Back
Once your body panel is the right length, it is time to split the work into two separate sections for the front and back of the top.
If you have been working in the round, count your total mesh squares around the circumference and divide them in half. Place a stitch marker at the halfway point. You will now work only the first half of the stitches back and forth in rows for the front panel, then return to work the second half for the back panel.
If you have been working flat panels, you already have two separate pieces and can continue working each one independently.
Step 4: Shaping the Armholes
Next Row (Armhole Setup): At the beginning of the next row, slip stitch across 2 to 3 mesh squares to create the armhole indentation. Then work in pattern across until 2 to 3 squares remain at the end of the row. Turn and leave those end squares unworked. These unworked squares on each side form the armhole.
For a deeper armhole (good for larger sizes or a more relaxed fit), leave 3 squares unworked on each side. For a smaller armhole, leave just 2 squares. Continue working in pattern across the remaining center stitches for the front (or back) panel.
Work even in mesh pattern on the remaining center stitches for approximately 5 to 7 more rows, or until the armhole measures about 7 to 8 inches deep.
Step 5: Shaping the Neckline
Now comes the fun part: creating the neckline. This pattern features a simple, wide scoop neckline that sits elegantly across the collarbone.
Neckline Row: Work across approximately one-third of the remaining stitches and stop. You are now going to work each shoulder strap separately.
Left Shoulder Strap: Work in pattern across the left third of stitches only, turning at the end of each row, for 4 to 6 rows. This creates a strap that will go over your shoulder. Fasten off.
Rejoin yarn at the right side of the remaining stitches (skipping the center third entirely, which forms the neckline opening) and work the right shoulder strap the same way. Fasten off.
Work the back panel identically to the front, either with the same scoop neckline or with a slightly higher back neckline by working 2 extra rows before splitting for the straps.
Step 6: Seaming the Top Together
With your front and back panels complete, it is time to join them. Lay both panels flat with wrong sides facing each other. Using your yarn needle and a length of yarn, use the whip stitch or mattress stitch to seam the shoulder straps together. Then seam the side edges of the top together, leaving the armhole openings unsewn.
The armhole openings should feel comfortable and not too tight. If you want to refine the fit, try the top on and adjust the side seams before finishing them off permanently.
Finishing Touches
Edging the Neckline and Armholes
A clean, simple edge makes a huge difference in the finished look of your mesh top. Using your crochet hook and yarn, work a single round of single crochet or slip stitch all the way around the neckline and each armhole opening. This stabilizes the edges and gives them a neat, polished finish.
For a slightly more decorative edge, try a simple shell border: work a single crochet into the edge, skip one space, then work 3 double crochets (a shell) into the next space, skip one space, and repeat. This adds a pretty ruffled detail that frames the openings beautifully.
Edging the Hem
You can leave the hem as-is for a minimal, modern look, or work a single round of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) along the bottom edge for a sturdy, slightly textured border. Reverse single crochet is worked just like regular single crochet, but you work from left to right instead of right to left, which twists the stitch and creates a corded edge.
Weaving in Ends
Weave all your ends in carefully using your yarn needle, making sure to weave in at least 2 to 3 inches in different directions so they do not work their way back out. With open mesh fabric, you want to be extra thorough since there are fewer fibers to anchor the yarn tails.
Blocking Your Finished Top
Blocking is one of the most transformative steps in crochet garment making, and it is especially impactful with mesh projects. To wet block your top, submerge it in cool water and gently press out the excess water with a towel (do not wring or twist). Lay it flat on your blocking mats and use pins to gently stretch the mesh into its correct shape and dimensions. Allow it to dry completely, which may take several hours or overnight.
The difference between a blocked and unblocked mesh top is remarkable. The stitches even out, the open squares become more uniform and defined, and the fabric relaxes into a soft, graceful drape. It is absolutely worth the extra time.
Tips for Customizing Your Mesh Top
One of the best things about a simple mesh pattern is how easily it lends itself to personalization. Here are a few ideas to make this top uniquely yours.
Add fringe or tassels along the hem for a bohemian beach vibe. Simply cut lengths of yarn about 8 inches long, fold them in half, and use your hook to pull them through the bottom mesh squares in an evenly spaced pattern.
Change the strap style. Instead of standard shoulder straps, work longer straps that you can tie in a bow at the shoulder for an adjustable, playful look. Alternatively, skip the straps entirely and work the top as a bandeau by continuing the back and front panels straight across without splitting for the neckline.
Mix yarn colors for a gradient or striped effect. Since the mesh fabric is worked in rows, it is easy to change colors at the end of any row. Switch colors every 2 to 3 rows for a subtle stripe, or gradually transition through a series of colors for a sunrise or sunset gradient effect.
Embellish with beads or shells. Thread small beads onto your yarn before you start crocheting and slide one into place at each double crochet stitch for a glittering, embellished mesh top that is perfect for special occasions.
Adjust the length. Add extra rows at the body for a tunic-length top, or stop early for an ultra-cropped style that hits just below the bust.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a true beginner make this top?
Yes, with some preparation. If you are new to crochet, practice your chain stitch, slip stitch, and double crochet until you feel comfortable before beginning. The mesh stitch itself is very repetitive once you understand the pattern, which makes it a great project for building confidence.
What if I run out of yarn partway through?
Join your new ball of yarn at the beginning of a row whenever possible, and weave in the ends as you go so you are not faced with a massive pile of tails at the end.
How do I wash my finished top?
Cotton yarn is generally hand-washable in cool water or machine-washable on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag. Always check your specific yarn label for care instructions. Lay flat to dry to preserve the shape.
Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton?
You can, but keep in mind that acrylic is less breathable than cotton, which can make a summer top feel uncomfortably warm. If you prefer acrylic, choose a very fine, lightweight version and consider a bamboo blend for better drape and some breathability.
Final Thoughts
Making your own crochet mesh top is one of those projects that manages to be both relaxing and exciting at the same time. The repetitive mesh stitch rhythm gets into a satisfying flow very quickly, and watching those open squares grow into an actual wearable garment is incredibly rewarding. Whether this is your very first crochet garment or one of many, the skills you practice here — mesh stitch, garment shaping, seaming, and finishing — will serve you well in countless future projects.
Take your time, do not skip the gauge swatch, and embrace the slight imperfections that come with handmade work. No two crochet tops will ever be exactly alike, and that is precisely what makes yours special. Once you wear it for the first time and someone asks where you got it, you will get to say you made it yourself — and that is the best feeling of all.
Happy hooking, and enjoy your beautiful summer mesh top!
