How to Crochet a Striped Raglan Top: A Beginner-Friendly Tutorial

If you’ve been wanting to level up your crochet wardrobe, a striped raglan top is one of the most satisfying projects you can take on. It looks impressive, it’s customizable to any color palette, and once you understand the construction method, it’s actually one of the most beginner-friendly garments you can make. At Red Agape, we love patterns that teach you something while you make something beautiful, and this tutorial does exactly that.

Whether you’re a total beginner who just learned how to hold a hook or someone who’s made a few dishcloths and scarves and is ready for something wearable, this post will walk you through every step. Grab your yarn, your hook, and a cozy seat, because we’re about to make something you’ll want to wear on repeat.

What Is a Raglan Top?

Before we dive into the pattern, let’s talk about what makes a raglan top different from other crochet tops. A raglan is a style where the sleeves and body are connected diagonally at the shoulders, rather than set in at a straight seam. You’ve seen this construction on baseball tees, athletic wear, and cozy sweaters. It’s characterized by diagonal lines running from the neckline down toward the underarms on all four raglan points.

What makes raglan construction so perfect for beginners is that the top is worked in one piece from the top down, meaning you increase at the four raglan points as you go and the sleeves grow naturally alongside the body. There are no complicated set-in sleeve techniques, minimal seaming, and you can try it on as you go to check the fit. It’s practically foolproof.

Adding stripes takes that beauty to the next level. Horizontal stripes in a raglan top are visually stunning because the stripe lines flow through the body and the sleeves in the same direction, giving the finished garment a really cohesive, polished look.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start, gather everything so you’re not hunting through your craft supplies mid-project.

Yarn: Choose a soft, medium weight yarn (size 4 worsted) for your first raglan top. Cotton or a cotton-blend works beautifully for tops because it’s breathable and drapes well. You’ll need about 800–1,200 yards of your main color and 300–500 yards of your contrast color, depending on your size. For this tutorial, we’ll call the main color Color A and the contrast color Color B.

Hook: A US size G (4.0 mm) or H (5.0 mm) hook works well with worsted weight cotton. Always swatch first (more on that below).

Stitch markers: These are essential for marking your four raglan points. You’ll need at least four, but having extras on hand is always smart.

Yarn needle: For weaving in ends when you finish.

Scissors

Measuring tape

Optional: A few safety pins for holding live stitches when you try on the garment in progress.

Understanding Gauge and Why It Matters

This is the step beginners most often want to skip, and we get it — you’re excited to start the actual top. But gauge is everything in garment making. If your gauge is off, the top won’t fit right, and all your hard work won’t result in something you can wear.

To check your gauge, chain 20 stitches and work in your chosen stitch pattern for about 4 inches. Lay the swatch flat without stretching it and use your measuring tape to count how many stitches and rows fit in a 4-inch by 4-inch square.

For this pattern, we’re aiming for approximately 14 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches in half double crochet. If your gauge is tighter than this (more stitches per inch), go up a hook size. If your gauge is looser (fewer stitches per inch), go down a hook size. Keep swatching until you hit the right gauge.

It might feel tedious, but this one step saves you from a garment that ends up too small or too baggy. Think of the swatch as practice for the actual stitch, too — by the time you’ve made one, you’ll feel much more confident.

Choosing Your Stripe Colors

One of the most fun parts of this project is choosing your color combination. Here are a few ideas to get you inspired.

Classic and clean looks come from pairing cream and navy, white and red, or soft gray and blush. If you want something bold and summery, try lemon yellow and coral, or aqua and orange. For a more sophisticated palette, dusty sage green and warm terracotta are gorgeous together. You could also do a tonal stripe by choosing two shades of the same color family, like light lavender and deep purple.

For this tutorial, we’re using a soft white as Color A and a terra-cotta peach as Color B, inspired by a warm sunset palette. But truly, any two colors (or even three!) that make you happy will work.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern is written using standard US crochet abbreviations.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
hdc — half double crochet
hdc2tog — half double crochet two together (decrease)
inc — increase (work 2 hdc in the same stitch)
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
sp — space
rep — repeat
RS — right side

Sizing Guide

This pattern is written for sizes Small through Extra-Large. Use the measurements below to choose your size. We recommend crocheting to the size that matches your actual chest measurement, then adjusting length as needed.

Small fits a 32–34 inch bust. Medium fits a 35–37 inch bust. Large fits a 38–40 inch bust. Extra-Large fits a 41–44 inch bust.

The finished garment has approximately 2–4 inches of positive ease, meaning it will be slightly larger than your body measurements for a relaxed, comfortable fit.

Step-by-Step Tutorial: Crocheting Your Striped Raglan Top

Step 1: Start at the Neckline

The raglan top is worked from the top down, beginning at the neckline. Start with Color A.

Chain 52 (S), 56 (M), 60 (L), or 64 (XL). Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, being careful not to twist your chain.

Round 1 (Setup Round): Ch 2 (counts as first hdc here and throughout), hdc in the next 8 sts, pm in the next st (this is your first raglan point), hdc in next 3 sts, pm in the next st (second raglan point), hdc in next 22 (S), 26 (M), 30 (L), or 34 (XL) sts, pm in the next st (third raglan point), hdc in next 3 sts, pm in the next st (fourth raglan point), hdc in remaining sts, join with sl st to top of ch-2. — You now have four sections: the back, two sleeve sections, and the front, connected at four raglan points.

Step 2: The Raglan Increase Rounds

This is the heart of raglan construction. On every right-side row, you will work increases at each of the four marked raglan points. These increases cause the four sections (back, front, and two sleeves) to grow simultaneously.

The increase formula at each raglan point is: work 2 hdc in the stitch before the marker, 2 hdc in the marked stitch, and 2 hdc in the stitch after the marker (6 total hdc at each raglan point instead of 3, adding 3 stitches at each raglan point each round).

Work Raglan Increase Rounds continuously in your chosen stitch (hdc worked in joined rounds, turning or not turning based on your preference) until the sleeves measure approximately 7–8 inches from the neckline, or until the underarm width feels right on your body.

Switch colors for your stripes every 2 rounds for narrow stripes or every 4 rounds for broader stripes. To switch colors cleanly, complete the last hdc of your current round until the final yarn over and pull-through — at that moment, drop your old color and pull through with the new color instead. This creates a seamless, clean color change at the join.

Don’t cut your yarn when switching colors if you’re alternating between just two colors — simply carry the unused color loosely up the inside of the work and pick it back up when you need it. This saves you from having to weave in a huge number of ends.

Step 3: Separating the Sleeves from the Body

Once your raglan section is the right depth, it’s time to separate the sleeves from the body so you can work the body as a tube.

At the point where you reach the first raglan marker, stop crocheting the sleeve stitches and instead chain 4–6 stitches across the underarm gap. This chain bridges the gap and becomes part of the body’s underarm. Then join to the front section and continue around, doing the same at the second underarm.

You’ll now have two sets of sleeve stitches sitting on your stitch markers or a piece of scrap yarn, waiting to be worked later, and your body will be a tube of joined rounds. The underarm chains create a smooth transition.

Step 4: Working the Body

Continue crocheting the body in the round in your stripe pattern. Work even (no increases or decreases) unless you want to add waist shaping.

For a bit of shaping, work 3–4 rounds even, then decrease by 1 stitch on each side (2 decreases per round) for 2 rounds to create a gentle waist. Then work even again, and optionally increase by 1 stitch on each side (2 increases per round) for 2 rounds if you want a slight hip flare. The shaping is subtle but makes the garment feel more tailored.

Continue working the body in stripes until the garment measures approximately 13–15 inches from the underarm (or your desired length). Finish on a complete stripe (ending after 2 or 4 rounds of the same color, depending on your stripe width) so the bottom edge looks intentional.

For the final round at the hem, switch to a single crochet border: work 1 sc in each st around and join. This creates a clean, slightly more polished hem edge. Fasten off.

Step 5: Working the Sleeves

Now transfer your sleeve stitches back onto your hook. Rejoin your yarn at the center of the underarm chain and work around, picking up stitches across the chain and then working the sleeve stitches.

Work the sleeves in the round in your stripe pattern. For a short sleeve or cap sleeve look, work 4–6 rounds even and finish with a single crochet border. For a longer sleeve, work even for as many rounds as you need to reach your desired length. You can also add a very gentle taper by decreasing 1 stitch every 8–10 rounds if you want the sleeve to narrow slightly toward the wrist.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

Step 6: Finishing the Neckline

Go back to your cast-on chain at the neckline. Using your yarn needle or hook, work a single crochet border all the way around the neckline edge. This tidies it up, reinforces the edge, and gives it a finished look. You can work 1 round of sc in your main color and then add 1 round of reverse single crochet (crab stitch) for a decorative finish.

Step 7: Weave in All Ends

Thread your yarn needle with each tail and weave it in securely on the wrong side of the fabric, working through several stitches in different directions to prevent unraveling. Take your time with this step — it’s what separates a handmade item that lasts from one that falls apart after the first wash.

Blocking Your Finished Top

Blocking is the step that transforms a finished crochet piece into something that looks truly professional. Fill a basin with cool water and a small drop of gentle soap or wool wash. Submerge your finished top and gently press the water through the fabric without agitating. Let it soak for 20 minutes, then gently press (don’t wring) the water out and roll the top in a clean towel to remove excess moisture.

Lay the top flat on a blocking mat or clean dry towel and gently shape it to the measurements you want. Use rust-proof pins to hold the edges in place if needed. Allow it to dry completely before wearing, which usually takes 12–24 hours.

Blocking relaxes the fibers, evens out stitches, and often makes the drape of a cotton top significantly better. It’s absolutely worth the extra patience.

Tips for Beginners Making Their First Garment

Working on your first garment can feel a little intimidating, but here are a few things to keep in mind that will make the process much smoother.

Move your stitch markers up as you work. After each raglan increase round, check that your markers are in the correct raglan point stitches. Markers can wiggle out of place, and catching a mistake early is always easier than frogging several rounds later.

Try it on as you go. One of the best things about top-down construction is that you can slip it over your head at any point to check how it’s fitting. Do this often. Trust what you see over what the pattern says, because every body is different.

Don’t be afraid of the math. If you need to adjust the number of stitches to make the garment work for your measurements, just make sure you’re always increasing in multiples that keep the raglan symmetry balanced. When in doubt, write it down so you can track where you are.

Embrace the imperfections. Especially on a first garment, there will be places where stitches look slightly uneven or a color change isn’t perfectly clean. That’s part of the handmade story. Blocking will smooth out a lot of it, and the person wearing this — hopefully you — will love it even more knowing every stitch was placed by hand.

Care Instructions for Your Crocheted Top

Always check the yarn label for specific care instructions. Most cotton and cotton-blend yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle, but hand washing will always be the kindest option and will extend the life of the garment. Lay flat to dry rather than hanging, since hanging a wet crochet garment can cause it to stretch out of shape. Keep it away from high heat, whether that’s a hot dryer or direct sunlight over long periods.

Final Thoughts

A striped raglan top is one of those projects that genuinely teaches you something at every stage. You learn about garment construction, you practice clean color changes, you get comfortable working in the round, and you finish with something wearable and beautiful that you made entirely yourself. At Red Agape, that’s the kind of project we return to again and again.

If you make this top, we’d absolutely love to see it. Tag us on Instagram or leave a comment below with your color choices. Whether you went classic or bold, we promise it’s going to be gorgeous.

Happy crocheting, friend.

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