Bitchin’ Skirt: A Free Knitting Tutorial — The Yarn Bitch Studios
There’s something deeply satisfying about knitting a garment from the ground up and ending up with something you’d actually wear out of the house. Not a practice swatch. Not another dishcloth. A real, wearable, head-turning piece that makes people ask, “Did you make that yourself?” and actually mean it as a compliment. That’s exactly what this Bitchin’ Skirt tutorial is here to deliver.
Whether you’re a seasoned knitter looking for your next project or an adventurous intermediate knitter ready to graduate beyond scarves and hats, this free pattern from The Yarn Bitch Studios is your ticket to a garment that fits beautifully, moves like a dream, and shows off your yarn in the most flattering way possible. Let’s get into it.
Why Knit a Skirt?
Before we dive into needles and yarn weights, let’s talk about why a knitted skirt deserves a spot on your project queue.
Knitted skirts are one of those garments that many knitters overlook, assuming they’ll be too heavy, too bulky, or too complicated to size correctly. But when you choose the right yarn and construction method, a knitted skirt is actually one of the most wearable things you can make. It stretches and moves with your body in a way that woven fabric simply can’t. It breathes. It drapes. And if you make it yourself, it fits your actual body — not some hypothetical average body that pattern companies decided to build around decades ago.
The Bitchin’ Skirt is designed with real-body versatility in mind. It’s worked in a simple construction that’s easy to modify for length, width, and yarn substitution. You’re not locked into one look. You’re building a foundation you can make your own.
Materials You’ll Need
Let’s get the practical stuff out of the way first, because nothing kills the excitement of a new project like showing up at your yarn store without knowing what you need.
Yarn: This pattern works best with a DK or light worsted weight yarn. You want something with a good drape — think yarns that have some bamboo, Tencel, linen, or silk content, or a smooth merino blend that relaxes beautifully with blocking. A yarn that’s too lofty or too grabby will create a fabric that’s stiff and heavy instead of flowy and comfortable to wear. Aim for approximately 800 to 1,200 yards depending on your size and desired length. Always buy an extra skein. Seriously. Always.
Needles: US size 4 (3.5mm) to US size 6 (4.0mm) circular needles, 32 inches or longer. You’ll be working in the round for most of this skirt, so you need length. If you’re using magic loop, a 40-inch cord is your best friend here.
Notions: You’ll need stitch markers (at least 4, preferably 8), a tapestry needle for finishing, a measuring tape, and an elastic for the waistband — about 1 to 1.5 inches wide, cut to your comfortable waist measurement.
Gauge: 22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch after blocking. Gauge matters here, especially for circumference. A skirt that’s too tight is uncomfortable and unflattering. A skirt that’s too loose will slide right off you. Do the swatch. Block the swatch. Measure the swatch. Yes, even if you’ve been knitting for twenty years.
Sizing
This pattern is written for a waist circumference of 28 to 30 inches (size Small), with modifications given for Medium (32 to 34 inches), Large (36 to 38 inches), and XL (40 to 42 inches). Because the skirt is worked top-down with a simple A-line flare, you can also adjust the hip circumference independently by adding or removing increase rounds. This gives you full control over the silhouette, which is one of the things that makes this pattern so adaptable.
When in doubt, go up a size. A slightly looser skirt is far more comfortable to wear and easier to style than one that’s pulling at the hips.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
A few things to keep in mind before you cast on:
The Bitchin’ Skirt is worked from the waist down, which means you’ll establish your waistband first and then work your way to the hem. This top-down construction is ideal for trying on as you go and adjusting length easily — just stop when you’re happy with it, or keep going if you want a maxi.
The main body of the skirt uses a combination of stockinette stitch with strategically placed increase rounds to create the A-line flare. The increases are simple yarn-overs or M1L/M1R increases depending on your preference. If you want a more open, lacy look at the increase points, use yarn-overs. If you want a clean, invisible increase, go with M1L and M1R.
The hem uses a simple rolled hem or an optional picot bind-off if you want to get fancy. Both instructions are included below.
Finally, this pattern is written flat for the waistband and then joined to work in the round. If you’ve never made that transition before, don’t worry — it’s explained step by step.
The Pattern
Waistband
Using long-tail cast-on or your preferred stretchy cast-on method, cast on the following number of stitches:
Small: 154 stitches
Medium: 176 stitches
Large: 198 stitches
XL: 220 stitches
Work flat (back and forth) in 1×1 rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 2 inches. This will become the waistband casing for your elastic. After your two inches of ribbing are complete, do not bind off. Instead, join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place a beginning-of-round marker.
Important: Before joining, fold your ribbing in half lengthwise and check that it isn’t twisted. Twisted ribbing is the kind of thing that ruins your evening and your skirt. Check twice, join once.
Body Setup Round
Once you’ve joined, knit one round even. This sets you up for the first increase round.
Increase Rounds
The increases in this pattern are spaced to create a gradual, flattering flare. You’ll work increase rounds every 8 rounds, placing increases at 8 evenly spaced points around the skirt. This gives you a classic A-line silhouette that adds about 2 stitches per increase round.
Setting Up Your Increase Points: Divide your cast-on stitches evenly into 8 sections using stitch markers. For size Small with 154 stitches, your sections won’t divide evenly into 8, so place markers every 19 stitches for the first 2 sections and every 20 stitches for the remaining 6. The slight variation won’t be noticeable in the finished skirt.
Increase Round: Knit to 1 stitch before marker, M1R, knit 1, slip marker, knit 1, M1L; repeat from to end of round.
This adds 16 stitches per increase round (2 stitches at each of 8 increase points).
Between Increase Rounds: Knit every round even.
Work increases every 8 rounds until your skirt measures the desired length, or until you’ve reached your desired hip circumference. For a standard knee-length skirt, you’ll work approximately 12 to 14 increase rounds. For a midi length, plan for 18 to 22 increase rounds. For a maxi, keep going — the pattern scales beautifully.
Checking Your Length as You Go
This is the beauty of top-down knitting. At any point, you can slip your stitches onto a long piece of waste yarn, step into the skirt, and check the length. Hold it at your natural waist and see where the hem falls. Add length until you’re happy, then switch to your hem finishing.
Try it on every 3 to 4 inches of body length. Knitting a whole skirt and realizing it hits at the most unflattering point on your leg is the kind of mistake you only make once.
The Hem
Option 1: Rolled Hem
This is the easiest finish and creates a casual, relaxed look. Simply work 6 additional rounds in stockinette and then bind off loosely using a regular knit bind-off or a stretchy bind-off like the Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-off. The stockinette will naturally roll to the outside, creating a clean, minimal hem.
Option 2: Picot Hem
This is the fancy version, and it’s worth the extra steps if you want a delicate, decorative edge.
Work 3 rounds even after your final increase round. Then work the picot turning round as follows: knit 2 together, yarn over; repeat from to end of round. Work 3 more rounds even, then fold the hem to the inside along the picot row and use your tapestry needle to tack the live stitches to the inside of the skirt, or simply bind off and sew down the folded edge. The result is a series of tiny points at the hem that add a beautiful finishing touch without being over the top.
Finishing the Waistband
Once your skirt body is complete, it’s time to finish the waistband. Thread your elastic through the waistband casing — a bodkin or large safety pin works well for this. Cut the elastic to your comfortable waist measurement plus about half an inch for overlap. Sew the ends of the elastic together securely, overlap them by half an inch, and stitch back and forth several times. Then use your tapestry needle and yarn to seam the open edge of the waistband casing closed, encasing the elastic inside.
Alternatively, if you prefer the look of an exposed waistband without elastic, you can omit the elastic and work a few extra rounds of 1×1 rib at the top to create a more polished band that sits on the waist by itself. This works best in a yarn with some elasticity and a more fitted starting circumference.
Blocking Your Skirt
Please, please block your skirt. Blocking is what takes a piece from “I made this” to “I made this.” Wet blocking works beautifully for most knitted garments. Soak your finished skirt in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for about 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out the excess water — never wring — and roll it in a clean towel to remove more moisture. Lay it flat on a blocking mat, smooth it into shape, and let it dry completely before wearing or storing.
Blocking evens out your stitches, softens the fabric, and helps the drape settle into its final, beautiful form. For a skirt, you can also hang it to dry after the initial flat block if you want to encourage the natural drape.
Yarn Substitution Ideas
The beauty of a versatile pattern like this one is that it works across a wide range of yarns. Here are some combinations worth considering depending on the look you’re going for:
For a luxurious, everyday wearable skirt, try a merino-silk blend in a DK weight. The silk content adds gorgeous drape and a subtle sheen that photographs beautifully and feels even better.
For a summer skirt that breathes and has a textured, natural look, try a linen or linen-cotton blend. These yarns have a beautiful stiffness that softens with washing and create a skirt that’s casual, wearable, and very on-trend.
For a cozy, cooler-weather version, try a fine Shetland or Icelandic wool in light worsted. These yarns are surprisingly lightweight for their warmth, and a knee-length skirt in a deep autumn color over tights is one of the most satisfying knitwear combinations imaginable.
For a bold, statement skirt, try a hand-dyed single-ply DK from an indie dyer. The slight irregularity of a hand-dyed yarn adds visual interest to the stockinette fabric, and the color variation gives the increases a painterly, organic quality.
Modifications and Style Notes
One of the things The Yarn Bitch Studios is known for is refusing to be prescriptive about how you wear your knitting. So here are a few ways to make this skirt completely your own.
Add texture: Replace the plain stockinette body with a simple 2×2 rib, a seed stitch, or a gentle lace panel running down the front or sides. Just keep your increase rounds where they are and substitute the stitch pattern in between.
Add pockets: A skirt with pockets is always better. You can add afterthought pockets by picking up stitches at the pocket opening location and working them flat before seaming. There are excellent tutorials for this technique available and it’s worth learning for every garment you’ll ever make.
Adjust the flare: Want a more fitted silhouette? Space your increase rounds every 12 rows instead of 8. Want more dramatic volume? Try increasing every 6 rows. The frequency of increases directly controls how A-line or flared the skirt becomes.
Play with length: A cropped skirt hitting just above the knee is fresh and modern. A midi that hits mid-calf is classic and elegant. A full maxi is romantic and dramatic. This pattern adapts to all of them — just try it on as you go.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make this skirt if I’m new to working in the round? Yes, absolutely. Working in the round is one of the most useful knitting techniques you can learn, and a skirt is a great project for building confidence with it. The circumference is large enough that you won’t feel cramped, and you’re essentially just knitting every stitch — no purling involved for the main body.
What if my gauge is slightly off? Adjust your needle size. If your swatch is too loose, go down a needle size. If it’s too tight, go up. Gauge is the single most important variable in garment knitting and a few minutes spent on a proper swatch will save you hours of frustration later.
Can I use a yarn that’s heavier than DK? You can, but proceed with caution. A heavier yarn will create a stiffer, heavier fabric that doesn’t drape the same way. If you want to try a worsted or aran weight, look for something with significant drape — bamboo or Tencel blends in heavier weights can work beautifully. Test your swatch hanging vertically to see how it behaves before committing.
How do I make this skirt longer without adding too much extra width? You can work a portion of the length without any increases after you’ve reached your desired hip circumference. Simply stop the increase rounds when you’re happy with the width and work straight down until you reach your target length.
A Note From The Yarn Bitch Studios
Knitting is supposed to feel like yours. Not like a rigid set of rules handed down from some authority deciding what a finished object should look like. The Bitchin’ Skirt exists because we wanted to create something that real people, with real bodies and real lives, would actually finish and wear and love. It’s designed to be flexible, adaptable, and genuinely useful — a foundation you’ll return to again and again, in different yarns and different colors and different seasons.
If you make this skirt, share it. Tag The Yarn Bitch Studios when you post your finished object. Use the hashtag #BitchinSkirt so the community can find each other’s versions and get inspired. There is nothing more motivating than seeing someone else’s finished object in a colorway you never would have considered yourself.
Now grab your yarn and your needles, cast on, and go make something bitchin’.
This pattern is free for personal use. Please do not sell finished items made from this pattern without written permission from The Yarn Bitch Studios. Feel free to share a link to this post — just don’t copy and paste the pattern elsewhere.
