Blush Pink Crochet Two Piece Set Pattern | Ruffled Crochet Top and Skirt

There is something undeniably romantic about blush pink. It is soft without being timid, feminine without being fussy, and when you work it up in crochet with ruffled details, the result is the kind of outfit that makes people stop and ask where you got it. Today I am walking you through a complete pattern for a blush pink crochet two piece set — a ruffled crochet top and a matching skirt — that you can make yourself, customize to your exact measurements, and wear to everything from a summer brunch to a beach vacation.

Whether you are an intermediate crocheter looking for your next wearable project or a confident beginner who wants to push into garment making, this pattern is designed to be approachable, clear, and satisfying from the first stitch to the last ruffle. Let’s talk yarn, hooks, stitches, and everything in between before we dive into the row-by-row instructions.

Why You Will Love This Pattern

Crochet two piece sets have had a massive moment in fashion over the last few years, and handmade versions are especially popular because they fit your body instead of a sample size. A blush pink colorway feels fresh for spring and summer but honestly works beautifully year-round when you layer it over a slip dress or pair it with a cardigan. The ruffled details on both the top and the skirt add movement and texture without requiring any complicated techniques — ruffles in crochet are made simply by working more stitches into a single row, which causes the fabric to fan out and cascade.

This set is worked primarily in double crochet with a shell stitch variation for the ruffle sections. The top is cropped and can be made with or without straps depending on your preference. The skirt is a midi length with a simple waistband and can be adjusted to a mini or maxi by changing the number of rows. Both pieces use the same yarn and the same hook, which means your gauge will stay consistent and the set will look cohesive when worn together.

Materials You Will Need

Before you cast on your first chain, gather everything you need so you can work without interruption.

For the yarn, you want something lightweight and drapey. A DK weight or light worsted cotton yarn works beautifully for this project because cotton has natural breathability, excellent stitch definition, and washes easily. Look for a yarn labeled as 100% cotton or a cotton-blend. For the blush pink color specifically, you want a warm-toned pink rather than a cool, almost-purple pink — something that reads as dusty rose or soft peach-pink in natural light. You will need approximately 800 to 1,000 yards for the top and 1,200 to 1,500 yards for the skirt, depending on your size. If you are working a size small, you may come in closer to the lower end; a size large will use closer to the higher end.

Your hook size should be a 4.0mm or 4.5mm aluminum or bamboo crochet hook. Work a gauge swatch before beginning — this is especially important for garments. Your gauge should be approximately 16 double crochets and 8 rows equaling 4 inches in the main stitch pattern. If your swatch is too tight (meaning your 16 stitches measure less than 4 inches), go up a hook size. If it is too loose, go down a hook size.

You will also need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, a flexible measuring tape, and about 1.5 yards of thin elastic for the skirt waistband.

Sizing Guide

This pattern is written for sizes XS through XL. All sizing adjustments are explained within the pattern at the relevant points, but here is an overview of the finished measurements to help you decide which size to make.

For the top, the finished bust measurement (unstretched) is 30 inches for XS, 34 inches for S, 38 inches for M, 42 inches for L, and 46 inches for XL. The cropped length from the top edge to the hem ruffle is approximately 14 inches across all sizes, though you can easily add or remove rows from the body section to adjust the length.

For the skirt, the waistband circumference (unstretched) is 24 inches for XS, 28 inches for S, 32 inches for M, 36 inches for L, and 40 inches for XL. The elastic will give this additional stretch. The skirt length from waistband to hem is approximately 24 inches, which hits at or just below the knee on most people. Adjust the length by adding or subtracting rows before working the ruffle section.

Stitch Glossary

Here are the stitches and abbreviations used throughout this pattern.

Ch means chain. Sl st means slip stitch. Sc means single crochet. Dc means double crochet. Hdc means half double crochet. 2dc-inc means two double crochet worked into the same stitch (an increase). Shell means 5 double crochets worked into the same stitch. Sp means space. Sk means skip. RS means right side. WS means wrong side. BLO means back loop only.

The Ruffled Crochet Top Pattern

Foundation Chain

To begin, chain a multiple of 6 plus 4. For size XS, chain 124. For S, chain 140. For M, chain 160. For L, chain 178. For XL, chain 196.

Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, being careful not to twist your chain. Place a stitch marker at the join point to mark the beginning of your round.

Rounds 1 through 3 — Ribbed Band

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch throughout), hdc in each ch around. Join with sl st to first hdc.

Round 2: Ch 2, hdc in BLO of each stitch around. Join with sl st.

Round 3: Repeat Round 2.

This creates a subtle ribbed band at the top of the bodice that gives a clean, finished edge and gentle stretch.

Rounds 4 through 16 — Bodice

Round 4: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around. Join with sl st.

Repeat Round 4 for Rounds 5 through 16. You will have 13 rounds of plain double crochet forming the main body of the top. This section should measure approximately 6.5 inches in length.

For a longer crop top, continue working in dc until the body measures your desired length minus 2 inches (to account for the ruffle at the hem).

Round 17 — Pre-Ruffle Increase Round

This round sets up the ruffle by increasing the stitch count.

Ch 2, dc in next 2 stitches, 2dc-inc in next stitch; repeat from around. Join with sl st.

Your stitch count will now be approximately one-third more than your starting count.

Rounds 18 and 19 — Ruffle

Round 18: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), sk 2 stitches, shell in next stitch, sk 2 stitches, dc in next stitch; repeat from around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.

Round 19: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, ch 2, sc in center dc of shell, ch 2, sc in next dc; repeat from around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

The ruffle created by these two rounds cascades beautifully at the hemline and gives the top that signature romantic, feminine look.

Optional Straps

If you want to add straps to the top, work them as follows. After completing the bodice and before working the ruffle, try the top on and mark where you want the straps to attach — typically about 2 to 3 inches in from each shoulder edge, front and back.

For each strap, attach yarn with a sl st at your marked point, ch 80 (or adjust for your desired strap length), and sl st back to the starting point. Work 2 more rows of sc over the ch-80 strap to give it body. Fasten off and attach the other end to the corresponding back point.

The Ruffled Crochet Skirt Pattern

Waistband

The skirt begins with a waistband that will hold your elastic. This creates a clean, comfortable fit that stays in place without needing to work any complicated shaping.

Ch 16.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (15 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO of each stitch across.

Repeat Row 2 until the waistband measures your desired waist circumference — 24 inches for XS, 28 inches for S, 32 inches for M, 36 inches for L, 40 inches for XL. Do not cut yarn yet. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and sl st the short ends together to form a loop.

Thread your elastic through the channel created by the fold of the waistband, overlap the ends of the elastic by about half an inch, and stitch them together securely. Slip stitch the opening of the waistband closed, encasing the elastic inside.

Picking Up Stitches for the Skirt Body

With RS facing, work along the long edge of the waistband.

Round 1: Attach yarn with sl st at the seam. Ch 2, work approximately 120 dc evenly spaced around the bottom edge of the waistband for XS. For S, work 136 dc. For M, work 152 dc. For L, work 170 dc. For XL, work 188 dc. Join with sl st to first dc.

The exact stitch count is less critical here than the evenness of your spacing — work into every other ridge of the waistband and adjust as needed to keep things smooth.

Rounds 2 through 6 — Hip Section

Ch 2, dc in each stitch around. Join with sl st. Repeat for 5 rounds total.

This section should sit snugly at the hips without flaring.

Increase Round for Skirt Flare

Round 7: Ch 2, dc in next 3 stitches, 2dc-inc in next stitch; repeat from around. Join with sl st.

Rounds 8 through 20 — Skirt Body

Continue working dc in each stitch around for Rounds 8 through 20. Your skirt will begin to have a gentle A-line flare from the increase round.

If you want a fuller, more dramatic skirt shape, work another increase round at Round 14 using the same formula as Round 7.

Continue until the skirt body measures approximately 20 inches from the waistband, or until it is 4 inches shorter than your desired finished length (to allow for the ruffle section).

The Hem Ruffle — First Increase Row

This round mirrors the increase round in the top, preparing the fabric to support the ruffle without pulling.

Ch 2, dc in next 2 stitches, 2dc-inc in next stitch; repeat from around. Join with sl st.

Ruffle Rounds

Work the same ruffle pattern used on the top:

Ruffle Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk 2 stitches, shell in next stitch, sk 2 stitches, dc in next stitch; repeat from around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.

Ruffle Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, ch 2, sc in center dc of shell, ch 2, sc in next dc; repeat from around. Join with sl st to first sc.

Adding a Second Ruffle Tier

One of the things that makes this set especially beautiful is the option to add a second ruffle tier to the skirt, creating a layered effect that photographs wonderfully and adds a lot of visual interest.

To work the second tier, go back to the final round of plain double crochet before your first ruffle increase. Attach yarn at any stitch in that round.

Ch 2, dc in next stitch, 2dc-inc in next stitch; repeat from around. Join with sl st.

Then work Ruffle Rounds 1 and 2 as written above. This second ruffle will sit just above the hem ruffle and create a cascading, layered look.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Finishing Touches

Once both pieces are complete and all ends are woven in, wet block your set for the best results. To wet block crochet, submerge the pieces in cool water, gently squeeze out the excess (do not wring), lay them flat on a blocking mat or clean towel, pin the ruffles open so they dry in their full, fanned-out shape, and allow to air dry completely. This step makes a remarkable difference in the drape and finished look of the garment.

If you find that the ruffles need a bit more definition, you can lightly steam them using a garment steamer held a few inches away from the fabric. Never press an iron directly onto crochet cotton without a pressing cloth, as this can flatten the texture.

Styling Your Blush Pink Crochet Two Piece Set

The top and skirt look stunning together as a full set, but each piece is also completely wearable on its own. The crochet top pairs beautifully with high-waisted linen trousers, denim shorts, or a flowy midi skirt in a complementary neutral like cream, tan, or champagne. The crochet skirt looks lovely with a fitted bodysuit, a simple white tank, or a tucked-in button-down shirt.

For footwear, think strappy sandals, espadrilles, or even white sneakers for a more casual daytime look. For jewelry, layered gold necklaces and small hoop earrings complement the softness of the blush pink without competing with it.

If you are making this set for a special occasion like a bridal shower, engagement photos, or a summer event, consider adding a few sewn-on pearl beads or small iridescent sequins scattered through the ruffles for an extra touch of sparkle.

Customization Ideas

One of the great joys of making your own crochet garments is that you can customize every single detail. Here are some ideas for making this pattern your own.

You can change the color entirely — this pattern works just as well in ivory, sage green, butter yellow, or a deep terracotta. You can also work the top and skirt in different colors for a more playful, colorblocked look.

For a boho-inspired variation, add fringe to the hem of the skirt by cutting lengths of yarn and attaching them through the stitches of the final round before the ruffle. For a more structured look, swap the ruffle rounds for a simple border of single crochet worked in a contrasting color.

If you want a more modest or weather-appropriate version, wear the top over a slip cami or bralette in the same blush tone, which will also give you more structure and support throughout the day.

A Few Tips for Crocheting Garments

If you are new to making crochet clothing, here are the most important things to keep in mind as you work through this project.

Gauge really does matter. Even a small difference in tension across many stitches adds up to a dramatically different finished size. Always swatch, and always measure after blocking because cotton relaxes when wet.

Work with good light. Blush pink is a light color and it can be harder to see your stitches clearly in dim light. Natural light or a daylight bulb makes a big difference.

Try on as you go. Because both pieces are worked in the round, you can slide them onto your body at any point to check the fit. Do this often, especially around the bust and hips, so you can make adjustments before you have worked too far ahead.

Take breaks and stretch your hands. Crochet garments require a lot of repetitive motions, and it is easy to lose track of time when you are in the flow of a beautiful project. Be kind to your hands — take breaks every 20 to 30 minutes and stretch your fingers, wrists, and forearms.

Sharing Your Finished Set

If you make this blush pink crochet two piece set, I would absolutely love to see it. Share your finished photos on Instagram or Pinterest and tag the post so other crocheters can find it and get inspired. The crochet community is one of the warmest, most supportive spaces on the internet, and there is nothing quite like seeing someone else bring a pattern to life in their own colors, their own size, and their own style.

Whether this is your first crochet garment or your fiftieth, you should feel proud of making something beautiful