
Crochet Mesh Tie Front Cardigan Pattern PDF | Bell Sleeve Lace Crochet Top Tutorial
If you’ve been searching for a crochet project that feels both elegant and wearable, a mesh tie front cardigan with bell sleeves might be exactly what your hook has been waiting for. This style of crochet top has been trending across every corner of the crafting world, and for good reason. The open lace mesh construction keeps the garment lightweight and breathable, the tie front detail creates a flattering silhouette on virtually every body type, and those sweeping bell sleeves give the whole piece a romantic, bohemian feel that works just as beautifully at a summer festival as it does layered over a tank top on a cool autumn evening.
In this tutorial, I’m going to walk you through everything you need to know to make your own crochet mesh tie front cardigan from start to finish. Whether you’re working from a downloadable PDF pattern or following along here, you’ll find all the stitch counts, measurements, construction notes, and styling tips you need to create a piece you’ll wear again and again.
What Makes This Crochet Cardigan So Special
Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about why this particular design is worth your time. The combination of mesh lace and bell sleeves is not new to crochet — it’s actually rooted in techniques that go back decades — but the way modern designers have updated it with the tie front detail and more relaxed, drapey proportions has made it feel completely fresh.
The mesh construction means you’re working mostly with chain spaces and open stitches, which makes the fabric grow quickly. If you’ve ever crocheted a solid granny square blanket and felt like you were never making progress, mesh work is the antidote. You’ll see the fabric develop fast, which is deeply satisfying. The lace quality also means the finished cardigan has a delicate, airy look that might seem intimidating to make, but is genuinely approachable even for confident beginners who are comfortable with basic stitches and reading a simple pattern.
The tie front means there’s no button band, no zipper, and no complicated closure to fuss with. You simply crochet two front panels with long tie ends, and when you wear it, you knot or bow them at the waist. This also means the pattern is highly adaptable to different body sizes — even if your gauge is slightly off or you want more drape, the tie front forgives a lot.
Materials You’ll Need
To make a standard adult cardigan in a medium size (which fits a 36–40 inch bust), gather the following supplies before you begin.
You’ll want approximately 800–1,000 yards of a lightweight yarn. A size 3 (light DK) or size 4 (medium worsted) yarn in a cotton or cotton-blend works beautifully for this project. Cotton gives the mesh structure and prevents excessive stretch, which can otherwise distort the lace pattern. Bamboo-cotton blends are also excellent because they add a subtle sheen that makes the lace detailing really pop. For color, classic ivory, dusty sage, terracotta, and soft dusty rose all photograph beautifully and suit the boho aesthetic of this cardigan.
For your hook, a 4.0 mm or 4.5 mm crochet hook is ideal for lighter yarns, while a 5.0 mm works well if you’ve chosen a slightly heavier DK or worsted weight. Always swatch first, because getting your gauge right on a wearable garment really does matter for fit.
Other notions you’ll need include a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, and a measuring tape. Blocking mats and pins are highly recommended for finishing this piece, as blocking transforms lace crochet from slightly uneven to beautifully crisp and even.
Gauge and Sizing
Before beginning any garment, crochet a gauge swatch of at least 4 by 4 inches using your chosen yarn and hook. For this pattern, you’re aiming for approximately 16 stitches and 8 rows to equal 4 inches in the mesh pattern described below.
Finished measurements for the sizes break down as follows. For a small, the bust measurement is approximately 34–36 inches and the total length from shoulder to hem is around 22 inches. For a medium, the bust is 38–40 inches and the length is 23 inches. For a large, the bust is 42–44 inches and the length is 24 inches. For an extra large, the bust is 46–48 inches and the length is 25 inches.
To adjust the sizing, you can add or remove pattern repeats from the body panels. The mesh pattern used in this cardigan is based on a 4-stitch repeat, so any additions should be made in multiples of four.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
Throughout this tutorial, the following abbreviations apply.
Ch means chain. Sl st means slip stitch. Sc means single crochet. Dc means double crochet. Tr means treble crochet. Ch-sp means chain space. Rep means repeat. Sk means skip. Sp means space. St or sts means stitch or stitches.
The mesh lace pattern in this cardigan is constructed primarily from double crochet stitches alternating with chain-2 spaces, with occasional treble crochets used in the bell sleeve flare and hem edging. If you know how to make a chain, a double crochet, and a slip stitch, you can make this cardigan.
Understanding the Construction
This cardigan is worked in pieces and seamed, which gives you the most control over shaping and fit. The pieces include a back panel, two front panels (which form the tie fronts when their lower halves are left open), and two sleeves worked from the cuff up with a flared bell at the shoulder end.
Some crocheters prefer to work garments in the round from the top down, and while that method has its fans, working flat pieces and seaming them together actually suits the drape of a mesh lace cardigan better. Seaming adds a tiny bit of structure at the shoulders and sides, which helps the open fabric hold its shape over time. The seams themselves are nearly invisible if you use a slip stitch seam on the wrong side or a flat mattress stitch seam with your yarn needle.
The Back Panel
To begin the back panel for a medium size, chain 82. Your foundation chain should measure approximately 20 inches stretched gently. If it measures less, go up a hook size or add 4 more chains. If it measures more, go down a hook size or remove 4 chains.
Row 1 (right side): Dc in the 4th chain from hook (counts as first dc), ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch; repeat from across. You should have 27 dc and 26 ch-2 spaces. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, sk next dc; rep from across, ending with dc in top of turning chain. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 until the back panel measures 14 inches from the foundation chain, or your desired body length to the underarm. At this point, set the back panel aside and begin your front panels.
The Front Panels
Because this is a tie front cardigan, each front panel is narrower than the back. For a medium size, chain 44 for each front panel.
Row 1: Dc in the 4th chain from hook, ch 2, sk 2, dc in next ch; rep from across. You’ll have 14 dc and 13 ch-2 spaces. Turn.
Work the same Row 2 pattern as on the back, repeating it until the front panel measures 14 inches, matching the back panel’s body length.
Now here’s where the magic of the tie front happens. After reaching the body length, you’ll continue crocheting only the inner half of the front panel upward to form the tie. For the inner tie section, work only across the first 7 stitches of the front panel, continuing in pattern for an additional 12–14 inches. This creates the long tie that will cross to the other side of the body and knot at the waist. Fasten off and repeat for the second front panel, working the tie from the inner edge.
The outer edge of each front panel continues straight up to the shoulder without the tie extension. You can add a simple single crochet edging along both vertical edges of each front panel once all pieces are assembled, which gives a clean finished look.
Shaping the Neckline and Shoulders
Once your body panels reach the desired length, you’ll shape the shoulders with a simple decrease. For the back panel, mark the center 20 stitches for the back neck. Work across to the first marker, turn, and work only the shoulder stitches for 2–3 more rows at a slight decreasing angle by skipping the first mesh space at the neck edge each row. Repeat for the other shoulder.
For each front panel, the neckline shaping is even simpler — because the front is open by design, you just make sure the shoulder portion aligns in height with the back shoulders. The open V-neck or draped neck that results from leaving the fronts open is part of the cardigan’s charm.
The Bell Sleeves
The bell sleeves are arguably the most exciting part of this pattern, and they’re simpler to construct than they look. Each sleeve is worked from the cuff up, starting narrow and gradually flaring out to a wide, dramatic bell at the top.
For the cuff, chain 30 (for all sizes — the cuff is worked to fit loosely around the wrist). Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, being careful not to twist.
Round 1: Ch 3, dc in same space, ch 2, sk 2, dc in next st; rep from around, join. You’ll have 10 dc and 10 ch-2 spaces.
Continue working in the mesh pattern for 4 rounds to establish the cuff. Then begin increasing.
Increase round: Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 2, sk next dc, dc in next ch-2 sp; rep from , ending with an additional dc in the last ch-2 sp before joining. Join. You’ve added 2 dc and effectively widened the sleeve by one mesh repeat on each side.
Work an increase round every 3rd round, adding one mesh repeat on each side, until the sleeve circumference measures approximately 18–22 inches at the widest point (this will vary by size and personal preference for sleeve drama). For a truly dramatic bell sleeve, work the increases more aggressively — every other round in the last 6 rounds.
Once the sleeve reaches the desired width, work one final row of treble crochets with ch-3 spaces instead of dc with ch-2 spaces. This creates the sweeping flared hem of the bell and gives the sleeve its characteristic flow when you move your arms.
The sleeve length from cuff to top should be approximately 18–20 inches for a standard long bell sleeve. For a three-quarter bell sleeve, work to about 14–15 inches.
Make two sleeves. They should be identical.
Assembling the Cardigan
Lay your pieces out flat and take a moment to block them before seaming. Wet blocking lace crochet is transformative — pin your pieces to their finished measurements on a blocking mat, mist thoroughly with water, and allow to dry completely. The mesh will open up, the stitches will even out, and the whole thing will look like it was made by a professional.
Once blocked and dry, seam the shoulder seams first using a whipstitch or slip stitch seam on the wrong side. Then set in the sleeves, pinning the top of each sleeve to the armhole edge and seaming around. Finally, seam the side seams from the underarm down to the hem, and seam the sleeve underarms from wrist to underarm in one continuous seam.
Finishing Touches and Edging
The edging is what elevates this cardigan from a crochet project to a wearable work of art. For the hem, work a row of shells or picot single crochets along the bottom edge of the back and front panels. A simple shell stitch — 5 dc in one stitch, skip 2 stitches, sl st, skip 2, 5 dc — repeated around the hem gives the bottom edge a beautiful, feminine scallop.
For the sleeve bells, the treble crochet row you already worked serves as a natural edging, but you can add one round of sc with ch-3 picots for extra delicacy.
Along the front opening and neckline, work two rows of sc for a clean, stable edge that keeps the front from stretching or curling. If you’d like to add a pop of contrast, work these edging rows in a complementary color.
Styling Your Mesh Tie Front Cardigan
Now that your cardigan is finished, the fun really begins. This piece is incredibly versatile. Worn over a simple fitted tank and high-waisted shorts, it’s a perfect beach cover-up or festival top. Paired with wide-leg linen trousers and strappy sandals, it becomes a chic warm-weather outfit with a bohemian flair. In cooler months, layer it over a fitted turtleneck and tuck it loosely into a midi skirt for a transitional season look that feels effortlessly put together.
The tie front can be worn in several ways. A classic bow at the waist is the most polished look. A loose single knot gives a more relaxed vibe. You can also cross the ties at the front, wrap them around to the back, and tie them there for a crop-top silhouette that shows off the cardigan’s mesh body as a statement layer.
Tips for Customizing the Pattern
One of the greatest things about this pattern is how easy it is to make your own. If you want a shorter cardigan, simply reduce the body length before the shoulder shaping. For a longer duster version, add 8–10 inches to the body length and consider working a border along the front edges for more structure.
You can also experiment with yarn weight. Working this pattern in a fine lace weight yarn with a 3.25 mm hook creates an incredibly delicate, gossamer-light cardigan perfect for special occasions. Stepping up to a chunky cotton with a 6.0 mm hook makes a much more substantial, cozy layer that works beautifully for cooler evenings.
Color-blocking is another wonderful customization option. Try working the body in one color and the sleeves in a complementary shade, or use a gradient yarn that transitions from one color to another across the panels. The open mesh construction shows off yarn color variations beautifully.
Downloading the PDF Pattern
If you’d like to have a clean, printable version of this pattern to reference while you crochet — complete with stitch diagrams, row-by-row written instructions, and sizing charts — a PDF version is the most convenient way to work. A well-formatted PDF pattern lets you print just the pages you need, annotate measurements as you go, and keep all your notes in one place without scrolling through a screen mid-project.
When shopping for or downloading a PDF crochet pattern, look for patterns that include multiple size options, clear photos of the finished piece from multiple angles, notes on yarn substitutions, and a detailed materials list. The best patterns also include a stitch diagram or chart alongside the written instructions, because being able to see the visual structure of the mesh repeat helps enormously when you’re learning a new construction method.
Final Thoughts
There is something genuinely special about wearing a garment you made with your own hands. A crochet mesh tie front cardigan with bell sleeves is one of those projects that sits right at the intersection of beautiful and wearable — it’s not just a display piece for the shelf, it’s something you’ll reach for constantly. The lightweight mesh construction, the flattering tie front, and those sweeping bell sleeves come together into a finished piece that looks far more complex than the simple, meditative stitches that made it.
Whether you’re a confident beginner ready to tackle your first garment or an experienced crocheter looking for a satisfying seasonal project, this pattern has everything to offer. Pick up your yarn, check your gauge, and start that foundation chain. Your new favorite cardigan is closer than you think.