Crochet Shorts Pattern: Free Crochet Pattern & Video Tutorial (XS–XXL)

If you’ve been searching for the perfect summer crochet project, look no further. These crochet shorts are everything you want: breezy, stylish, customizable, and completely free to make. Whether you’re a beginner gaining confidence with your hook or an experienced crafter looking for a fun wardrobe addition, this pattern walks you through every step from start to finish. With sizes ranging from XS to XXL, there’s truly a fit here for everyone.

Keep reading for the full written pattern, helpful tips, yarn and hook recommendations, and a link to the accompanying video tutorial so you can follow along visually as you work.

Why You’ll Love This Crochet Shorts Pattern

Crochet clothing has had a major moment in recent years, and shorts are one of the most wearable pieces you can add to your handmade wardrobe. Unlike crocheted blankets or dishcloths, garments give you something you can actually wear out into the world — to the beach, a farmers market, a backyard barbecue, or layered over a swimsuit for a boho-chic look.

Here’s what makes this particular pattern stand out:

It’s completely free. There’s no paywall, no email sign-up required, and no hidden PDF purchase. This full written pattern is right here on this page, and the video tutorial is linked so you have two ways to follow along.

It’s size-inclusive. The pattern includes instructions for XS, S, M, L, XL, and XXL, so you can make a pair for yourself, your sister, your best friend, or anyone else on your list.

It uses beginner-friendly stitches. The main stitch pattern is approachable for crocheters who are past the absolute beginner stage and comfortable with basic stitches. If you can chain, single crochet, double crochet, and slip stitch, you have everything you need.

It works up quickly. Depending on your size and yarn weight, many crafters finish these shorts in a weekend or less.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you cast on — or rather, chain on — gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you start makes the process so much smoother.

Yarn: The best yarn for crochet shorts is one that has some drape and breathability. Cotton yarns are a popular choice because they’re soft against the skin, machine washable, and come in a gorgeous range of colors. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, We Are Knitters The Cotton, and Paintbox Simply DK Cotton are all excellent options. You’ll want a medium weight (size 4) yarn for the standard version of this pattern, though you can adjust hook size if you prefer a lighter or heavier fabric.

Yardage estimates by size:
XS: approximately 600–700 yards
S: approximately 700–800 yards
M: approximately 800–900 yards
L: approximately 900–1,050 yards
XL: approximately 1,050–1,200 yards
XXL: approximately 1,200–1,400 yards

Hook: A 5.0mm (US H/8) crochet hook works well with most medium-weight cotton yarns. Adjust as needed to meet gauge.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, a measuring tape, and 1–1.5 inches of elastic for the waistband (cut to your waist measurement plus one inch for overlap). You’ll also want straight pins or clips for assembling the waistband casing if you choose to make one.

Gauge

Gauge matters more for garments than almost any other crochet project. A small difference in gauge can translate into a significant difference in fit, so take the time to make a gauge swatch before diving in.

Gauge: 14 stitches and 8 rows = 4 inches in double crochet using a 5.0mm hook and medium-weight cotton yarn.

Blocked gauge is ideal since cotton relaxes after washing. If your swatch is too small (too many stitches per inch), go up a hook size. If it’s too large (too few stitches per inch), go down a hook size.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc — half double crochet
sk — skip
sp — space
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
BLO — back loop only
st(s) — stitch(es)
pm — place marker
rm — remove marker

Size and Measurements

The sizes below are based on hip measurements. Crochet has natural ease, and this pattern is designed with approximately 1–2 inches of positive ease at the hip for a comfortable, relaxed fit.

XS: 32–34 inch hips
S: 34–36 inch hips
M: 36–38 inch hips
L: 38–41 inch hips
XL: 41–44 inch hips
XXL: 44–47 inch hips

Finished inseam length: approximately 3–4 inches (you can easily adjust this longer or shorter as you go)
Finished rise: approximately 9–11 inches depending on size

Pattern Notes

These shorts are worked in the round from the waistband down. The body is worked as one piece until you reach the crotch, at which point you divide the work to create two separate leg openings. The legs are then worked individually, also in the round.

The waistband is worked in ribbing using back-loop-only slip stitches, then folded over and stitched down to create a casing for the elastic. This gives the waist a snug, comfortable fit without requiring any complicated sizing adjustments.

Read through the entire pattern before you begin. This is especially helpful for understanding where the piece divides and how the inseam is joined.

The Full Pattern

Part One: The Waistband

The waistband is worked flat (back and forth in rows) and then joined into a ring to form the top of the shorts.

Foundation: Ch 11.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (10 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in BLO across. Turn. (10 sc)

Repeat Row 2 until your ribbing measures the following length when slightly stretched:

XS: 30 inches
S: 32 inches
M: 34 inches
L: 37 inches
XL: 41 inches
XXL: 44 inches

Join the short ends of the ribbing together with a sl st or by seaming with a yarn needle to form a ring. Do not fasten off. You will now work along the long edge of the ribbing.

Part Two: The Body

With RS facing, work into each row-end along the top edge of the ribbing as follows:

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc evenly around the top edge of the ribbing, placing one dc per row. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

You should have approximately the following number of stitches:

XS: 96 dc
S: 104 dc
M: 112 dc
L: 120 dc
XL: 132 dc
XXL: 144 dc

If your stitch count is slightly different due to your row count in the ribbing, that’s okay. The most important thing is that the stitch count is a multiple of 4 for the stitch pattern to work evenly. Adjust by adding or subtracting 1–3 dc as needed.

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st, rep from around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Rounds 5–12: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 alternately. (This creates the open lattice texture that gives the shorts their airy, stylish look.)

Rounds 13–14: Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

At this point your shorts should measure approximately 6–7 inches from the top of the ribbing. Continue working in dc until the body measures 9 inches from the top of the ribbing for XS/S, or 10–11 inches for M, L, XL, and XXL, or to your desired rise length.

Part Three: Dividing for the Legs

This is where the shorts split into two leg openings. You’ll work the front and back separately and then join them at the inseam.

Divide the stitch count in half. Place a stitch marker at each halfway point around the round. These markers indicate the sides of the shorts (the left side seam and right side seam).

Leg One:

Work across the first half of your stitches (front panel) only, working back and forth in rows rather than in the round. At the end of each row, ch 3 and turn.

Continue working in dc across the front panel for 5 rows.

Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming the inseam.

Leg Two:

Rejoin yarn to the beginning of the back panel. Work across the back panel stitches in rows, matching the same number of rows as Leg One.

Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming the inseam.

Joining the Inseam:

Fold the shorts so the front and back panels align at one leg opening. Use the long yarn tails or a separate piece of yarn to seam the inseam using a whipstitch or mattress stitch. Repeat for the second leg opening.

Working the Leg Rounds:

Rejoin yarn to the bottom of one leg opening. Work in the round, placing dc evenly around the entire leg opening.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc around. Join with sl st. (This round tightens up the opening slightly and creates a clean edge.)

Rounds 2–4: Ch 1, sc around. Join with sl st.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the second leg opening.

Part Four: Finishing the Waistband

Cut your elastic to your waist measurement plus 1 inch for overlap. Thread the elastic through the waistband casing (the folded ribbing at the top of the shorts). Overlap the ends of the elastic and secure them together by hand-stitching or using a safety pin temporarily while you try on the shorts for fit.

Once you’re satisfied with the fit, sew the elastic ends securely together. Then fold the ribbing over the elastic and, using your yarn needle and a length of yarn, whipstitch the bottom edge of the ribbing to the inside of the shorts to close the casing.

Weave in all remaining ends. Give the shorts a gentle hand wash or machine wash on a delicate cycle, then lay flat to dry.

Video Tutorial

If you prefer to follow along with video guidance — and many crafters do, especially for garment projects — the full video tutorial for these crochet shorts is available on YouTube. The tutorial covers every section of the pattern in real time, including how to work the ribbing, how to divide for the leg openings, how to seam the inseam neatly, and how to insert and secure the elastic.

Watching the video alongside the written pattern is a great way to see the construction process come together, especially if you’re new to making crocheted garments. Search “Crochet Shorts Pattern Free Tutorial” on YouTube or check the link provided in the description of this post.

Tips for the Best Fit

Swatch, swatch, swatch. It cannot be said enough — gauge swatching before you begin will save you from the disappointment of a finished pair of shorts that doesn’t fit. Even experienced crocheters sometimes skip this step and regret it. A 10-minute swatch saves hours of frustration.

Take your measurements carefully. For this pattern, hip measurement is your guide for choosing a size. However, if you’re between sizes, go up. Crochet fabric doesn’t stretch the same way knit fabric does, so a little extra ease is always more comfortable than too little.

Adjust the rise to fit your body. Not everyone has the same torso proportions, and the rise (the distance from waistband to crotch) is one of the easiest things to adjust in this pattern. Simply work more or fewer rounds before dividing for the leg openings. Try the piece on as you go if you can — holding it up against your body is a surprisingly effective way to gauge fit.

Choose yarn with drape. A stiff yarn will make the shorts look boxy and unflattering. Cotton and cotton-blend yarns tend to have lovely drape. Avoid anything too bulky or too textured for this project.

Weave in your ends carefully. On garments, ends that aren’t well-secured can work their way out with wear and washing. Weave each end in at least two directions and snip closely.

Customization Ideas

One of the best things about making your own clothes is the ability to customize them endlessly. Here are a few ideas to make these shorts uniquely yours:

Add a fringe or tassel trim along the leg openings for a boho feel. Simply cut lengths of yarn, fold them in half, and pull them through the edge stitches with a hook.

Work the body in a colorblock design by switching yarn colors every few rounds. Two-tone or three-tone colorblock shorts are incredibly trendy right now.

Add pockets by crocheting two flat squares in your yarn and seaming them to the front of the shorts before finishing the waistband. Pockets make everything better.

Work the ribbing longer to create a wide-waistband style, which is very fashionable and also very flattering. A 3-inch ribbing waistband instead of a standard 1.5-inch ribbing adds a polished look.

Try a shell stitch or v-stitch in the body instead of the dc-and-ch-1 pattern for a different texture. Just make sure your stitch count is compatible with the stitch repeat you choose.

Care Instructions

Because most recommended yarns for this pattern are cotton or cotton blends, care is straightforward. Machine wash on a gentle or delicate cycle in cold water. Lay flat to dry to preserve the shape and prevent any stretching. Do not put in a hot dryer, as heat can distort the elastic and shrink the fabric.

If you used a different fiber — bamboo, linen, or a blend — check the yarn label for specific care guidance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a beginner make this pattern?
This pattern is best suited for someone who is comfortable with basic crochet stitches and has completed a few smaller projects. If you’ve made a dishcloth or a simple hat, you’re ready to try this. The most challenging part is dividing for the leg openings and seaming the inseam, but both are explained clearly in the video tutorial.

Can I use a different yarn weight?
Yes! If you use a lighter weight yarn (like DK or fingering), your shorts will have a more delicate, sheer fabric. If you use a bulkier yarn, the fabric will be thicker. Just make sure to adjust your hook size accordingly and always swatch first to confirm your gauge.

How do I adjust the length of the shorts?
Work more rounds in the body section before dividing for the leg openings to make longer shorts or even short shorts. You can also add more rows after dividing for the legs to create longer leg sections. The pattern is very easy to lengthen or shorten.

My shorts are too tight at the hips — what happened?
This almost always comes down to gauge. If your crochet tension is tighter than the pattern gauge, your finished piece will be smaller than intended. Next time, swatch carefully and adjust your hook size. For now, you may be able to add a side panel or simply size up if you haven’t finished yet.

What if the elastic gets twisted inside the casing?
Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic before threading it through. The safety pin acts as a guide and prevents the elastic from twisting or pulling loose as you work it through. Once you’ve made a full loop, remove the pin and sew the ends together.

Final Thoughts

Making your own clothing is one of the most rewarding things you can do with a crochet hook. These crochet shorts are a project that delivers on every level — they’re fun to make, beautiful to look at, and genuinely wearable in your everyday life. The full-size range from XS to XXL means this can be your go-to pattern whenever you want to make a