The Ultimate Guide to Sewing Drawstring Coverup Pants: A Free Pattern and Step-by-Step Tutorial
There is something deeply satisfying about pulling on a pair of breezy, loose-fitting pants that you made yourself. Drawstring coverup pants sit at a beautiful intersection of function and style — they slip over a swimsuit at the beach, layer over leggings for a yoga class, or become the most comfortable thing you own for lounging around the house on a Sunday morning. If you have been wanting to learn how to sew your own, this guide is exactly what you need. We are going to walk through a complete drawstring coverup pants pattern, with detailed instructions for every step of the process, tips for choosing the right fabric, guidance on sizing and adjustments, and finishing ideas that will take your final pair from homemade to handcrafted.
Whether you are a beginner who has sewn a few simple projects or an intermediate sewist looking to add a wearable, versatile garment to your wardrobe, this pattern is approachable and rewarding. Let’s get started.
Why Drawstring Coverup Pants Deserve a Place in Your Sewing Rotation
Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth talking about why these pants are such a great project. First, the silhouette is nearly universally flattering. A wide, relaxed leg that cinches gently at the waist with a drawstring flatters every body type because it skims the body without clinging. Second, the construction is genuinely simple — there are no zippers, no complicated darts, and no difficult waistband interfacing required. Third, the applications are endless. You can make a sheer, lightweight version in chiffon or gauze for a beach coverup, a medium-weight version in linen or cotton for casual summer days, or even a cozy version in French terry or lightweight fleece for colder mornings.
From a purely practical standpoint, these pants are also incredibly quick to sew. Once you have cut your fabric, you can have a finished pair in two to three hours, even if you are a slower, methodical sewer. That makes this pattern an excellent choice when you want to make something handmade for a trip, a gift, or simply because you have a length of beautiful fabric you have been waiting to use.
Choosing Your Fabric
Fabric choice will dramatically change the character of your finished pants, so it is worth spending a few minutes thinking about what you want before you go to the fabric store or browse online.
Lightweight and sheer fabrics like chiffon, georgette, voile, or gauze create a truly dreamy coverup effect. These are ideal for beach or pool looks because they dry quickly, move beautifully in a breeze, and layer easily over a swimsuit. The tradeoff is that they are a bit more slippery and challenging to cut and sew. If you choose one of these, use fine pins, a sharp needle, and a longer stitch length.
Medium-weight woven fabrics like linen, cotton lawn, cotton voile, or rayon challis are the sweet spot for most sewists. They behave well on the machine, press cleanly, and produce pants that look polished and intentional. A linen pair in a neutral or printed fabric will genuinely look like something you bought from a boutique.
Jersey and knit fabrics work beautifully in this pattern too, and they require no seam finishing because knit edges do not fray. A bamboo jersey or lightweight cotton-modal blend will produce pants that are incredibly soft against the skin and suitable for lounging, light yoga, or casual wear.
Avoid heavy fabrics like denim, canvas, or thick quilting cotton for this style. The wide leg and gathered waistband work best with fabrics that have some drape. A stiff fabric will create a silhouette that stands away from the body in an unflattering, tent-like way.
For yardage, you will generally need between two and two and a half yards of fabric that is at least 44 inches wide, or one and a half yards of fabric that is 58 to 60 inches wide. The wide leg means each pattern piece is quite broad, so wider fabric is more economical.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your supplies together before you sit down to sew makes the process go much more smoothly. Here is what you will need:
Two to two and a half yards of fabric (as described above), washed and pressed. Pre-washing is especially important for linen and cotton, which can shrink significantly. Your thread in a matching or coordinating color. A sewing machine in good working order with an appropriate needle for your fabric — a universal 80/12 needle works for most wovens, while a ballpoint or stretch needle is better for knits. Sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter and cutting mat. Pins or fabric clips. An iron and ironing board. A safety pin, which you will use to thread your drawstring through the casing. Approximately two yards of drawstring material — this can be cotton twill tape, grosgrain ribbon, cording, or even a length of fabric cut on the bias and pressed. A water-soluble fabric marker or tailor’s chalk for marking.
Understanding the Pattern Pieces
This drawstring coverup pants pattern consists of just two main pieces: the front/back leg panel and the waistband. Because the front and back of these pants are identical, you only need one pattern piece for the leg, which you will cut twice.
The leg panel is a wide rectangle with a curved inner seam at the crotch. The shape is sometimes called a “sickle” or a gently curved trapezoid. The top edge is wider than it might seem necessary, because the fabric will gather into the waistband, creating that soft, draped effect at the hips. The bottom hem is left straight, making it easy to adjust length before finishing.
The waistband is a long rectangle that folds in half to create a casing for the drawstring. It is intentionally cut generously so that the pants sit comfortably at or just below the natural waist and can be adjusted for a snug or relaxed fit.
Pattern Measurements and Sizing
This pattern uses a simple sizing system based on your high hip measurement, which is the measurement around the fullest part of your hips, approximately seven to nine inches below your natural waist. Because the waistband ties with a drawstring, the waist measurement is flexible and will fit a wide range of sizes.
For a size that fits a high hip measurement up to 44 inches, cut your leg panel at 24 inches wide and 40 inches long (before hemming). This gives generous ease for a flowing, relaxed fit.
For a high hip measurement between 44 and 52 inches, cut your leg panel at 27 inches wide and 40 inches long.
For a high hip measurement above 52 inches, cut your leg panel at 30 inches wide and 40 inches long.
The 40-inch length will produce pants that hit just above the ankle on someone who is approximately 5’5″ to 5’8″. If you are shorter, plan to hem more generously or reduce the initial length by a few inches. If you are taller, add a few inches to the length, keeping in mind that you will lose about an inch and a half to the waistband seam allowance and another inch or two to the hem.
The waistband piece should be cut at 9 inches wide and the full width of your fabric. When folded in half and sewn to the pants, this creates a 3.5-inch casing (accounting for seam allowances) that is wide enough to accommodate a drawstring and create a comfortable, flattering band at the waist.
Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Step One: Cut Your Fabric
Fold your pre-washed fabric in half lengthwise, with right sides together. Using your measurements from the sizing guide above, cut two leg panels. These should be identical. Cut one waistband strip across the full width of your fabric.
If you are using a print that has a directional pattern (like florals or stripes), make sure both leg panels are oriented the same way before cutting.
Step Two: Mark the Crotch Curve
On each leg panel, you will need to create the crotch curve. This is a gentle arc on the inner leg edge, beginning about 8 inches down from the top corner and curving inward about 2 to 2.5 inches at its deepest point before straightening out again.
You can draw this freehand using a water-soluble marker, using a large plate or the edge of a cutting mat as a template for the curve. The curve does not need to be precise — these pants are meant to be relaxed and forgiving, and a slightly imperfect curve will not affect the finished look. Cut along your marked curve on both panels.
Step Three: Sew the Inner Leg Seams
With right sides together, match your two leg panels along the curved crotch edge. Pin generously along the curve. Sew with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, easing the fabric around the curve as you go. Take your time here — this is the seam that determines how the pants hang and how comfortable the crotch will feel when you wear them.
Clip the seam allowance along the curve at regular intervals (approximately every half inch) without cutting into your stitching. This allows the seam to lie flat and prevents pulling when the pants are worn. Press the seam open or to one side.
Step Four: Sew the Side Seams
Bring the two leg panels together at the side edges, right sides facing. Match the top and bottom edges. Pin along both side seams and sew with a 5/8-inch seam allowance. Press the seams open.
At this point, you have the basic tube shape of your pants. Try them on — hold them up at the waist and do a quick check on the length. Now is the moment to make any adjustments before you attach the waistband.
Step Five: Finish Your Seams
If you have a serger, run the raw edges of your seams through it now. If you are working with a standard sewing machine, use a zigzag stitch along each seam allowance, or fold and press the raw edge under by a quarter inch and topstitch it down. This step matters most for woven fabrics, which will fray over time with washing. Knit fabrics do not need this step.
Step Six: Prepare and Attach the Waistband
Fold your waistband strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press. Open it back up. Fold each short end in by 5/8 inch and press. Now fold the whole strip in half again and sew the two short ends closed, backstitching at each end. This creates the finished sides of your waistband.
With the pants right side out and the waistband right side down (matching raw edges at the top), pin the waistband around the top edge of the pants. Because the waistband is likely narrower than the top of the pants, you will need to gather the pants fabric as you pin. Distribute the gathers evenly all the way around. Sew around the top with a 5/8-inch seam allowance.
Fold the waistband up and then fold it down over the seam to the inside of the pants. The folded edge of the waistband should just cover your seam line on the inside. Pin in place from the right side of the fabric, then topstitch all the way around close to the lower folded edge of the waistband, leaving a gap of approximately two inches on one side. This gap is where you will thread your drawstring.
Step Seven: Thread the Drawstring
Attach a safety pin to one end of your drawstring. Insert it into the gap in your waistband casing. Work the safety pin through the entire casing, gathering the fabric over it as you go, until it comes out the other side of the same gap. Pull both ends of the drawstring so they are even.
Try the pants on and tie the drawstring to your preferred tightness. You want a fit that is snug enough to stay up but loose enough to feel comfortable and to slip on and off over a swimsuit or other clothing. Mark the ends of the drawstring at the length you want, then remove the pants and trim the ends, leaving about an inch of extra length.
To finish the ends, you can fold them under and hand-stitch them closed, tie a simple overhand knot at each end, wrap them with a bit of bias tape, or seal them with a tiny dab of fabric glue if you used a cut fabric strip.
Step Eight: Hem the Legs
Try the pants on one more time and mark your desired hem length with a pin or chalk. Take them off and fold the hem up to the inside by half an inch, then fold again by another half inch to enclose the raw edge. Press well and pin in place. Topstitch all the way around each leg close to the upper fold of the hem, backstitching at the start and end.
For sheer fabrics, a narrow rolled hem is a beautiful finishing touch that keeps the hem from looking bulky. You can do this with a rolled hem presser foot or by hand-rolling and slip-stitching.
Styling Your Drawstring Coverup Pants
Once you have finished sewing, the fun really begins. A pair of wide-leg drawstring coverup pants is one of the most versatile garments in a summer wardrobe.
Wear them over a swimsuit with flat sandals and a straw hat for an effortlessly chic beach look. Pair them with a fitted tank and sneakers for a casual daytime outfit. Layer them over a bodysuit with block-heeled sandals for evening. For travel, they fold almost flat in a bag, dry quickly if they get wet, and feel comfortable on long flights.
For fabric inspiration: a pair in a bold tropical print reads instantly as resort wear, while a pair in washed linen or chambray can easily go from the beach to a casual lunch. A black or navy pair in lightweight fabric is perhaps the most versatile of all — they feel like a coverup but look like intentional, stylish pants.
Common Questions and Troubleshooting
What if the crotch area feels too tight or too loose? The curve depth controls this. A deeper curve gives more room in the seat and crotch; a shallower curve gives less. If your first pair feels tight when you walk, let out a little of the seam allowance along the inner curve. If it feels baggy, take in a bit.
What if the waistband feels too thick? Use a lighter-weight fabric for the waistband, or try a single-layer waistband with a turned-under edge rather than a folded double-layer.
Can I add pockets? Absolutely. A simple patch pocket sewn to the outside of each leg before the side seams are closed is a quick, functional addition. For a cleaner look, you can insert an in-seam pocket in one or both side seams.
Can I make shorts instead of full-length pants? Yes, and they are wonderful. Simply reduce the initial length of your leg panels to whatever finished length you want, adding back your hem allowance. Beach shorts in a gauze or lightweight linen are a beautiful companion project.
A Few Final Tips for Success
Always pre-wash your fabric, especially if it is a natural fiber. Linen and cotton in particular can shrink by several inches, and you do not want to discover this after the garment is finished.
Press every seam as you go. It takes an extra moment, but pressing makes an enormous difference in the finished quality of any garment. Flat, pressed seams are what separate a handmade piece from a homemade one.
Do not skip the step of trying the pants on mid-construction. Adjusting the length before you hem, or tweaking the waistband fit before you thread the drawstring, is so much easier than unpicking a finished seam.
If you plan to make multiple pairs — and you almost certainly will, because these are genuinely addictive to sew — trace your pattern onto a piece of pattern paper or a sheet of lightweight interfacing after your first successful version. That way you have a permanent record of your exact sizing with any adjustments you made.
These pants are the kind of project that reminds you why sewing is so satisfying. They come together quickly, they feel wonderful to wear, and every time someone asks where you got them, you get to say that you made them yourself. That never gets old.
