
Foldover Crochet Shorts with Buttons Tutorial 🧶✨ Written Pattern Available
If you’ve been looking for a crochet summer project that’s both functional and absolutely adorable, you’ve landed in exactly the right place. These foldover crochet shorts with buttons are the kind of piece that looks like it came straight from a boutique rack — but you made it yourself, with your own two hands and a skein of your favorite yarn. Whether you’re a confident beginner or an experienced crocheter looking for a fun wardrobe addition, this tutorial walks you through every step of the process. And yes — a written pattern is included so you can save it, print it, and work from it at your own pace.
Let’s get into everything: materials, sizing, stitch breakdowns, and the full written pattern.
Why You’ll Love This Pattern
Before we dive into the how-to, let’s talk about why these shorts are worth your time and yarn. The foldover waistband is the standout feature here. It gives you that relaxed, effortlessly stylish look that’s been trending in handmade fashion for the past few seasons. The fold creates a doubled-over waistband that’s thick, supportive, and incredibly comfortable — no tight elastic digging into your waist, no complicated waistband construction. Just crochet, fold, and go.
The button detail along the foldover adds a charming, intentional design touch. Depending on the buttons you choose, you can take these shorts in a totally different direction. Wooden buttons give a natural, earthy feel. Pearl or shell buttons lean coastal and breezy. Bold vintage buttons can make the whole piece feel retro-chic. The creative flexibility here is one of the things that makes this pattern so satisfying to make and wear.
These shorts work up relatively quickly — especially in a bulky or worsted weight yarn — and the construction is straightforward enough that you can watch a movie or podcast while you work. The legs are open and breezy, the fit is relaxed through the hips, and the length hits at a comfortable mid-thigh for most people. You can easily adjust the length to suit your preference.
Materials You’ll Need
Getting your materials together before you start makes the whole process smoother. Here’s what you’ll need for this project:
Yarn: Approximately 300–600 yards of worsted weight yarn (the exact amount depends on your size — more on that below). Cotton or a cotton blend is highly recommended for shorts since it’s breathable, holds its shape well, and washes easily. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), and We Are Knitters Pima Cotton are all excellent choices. You can also use a linen blend for a slightly drapier, more relaxed feel.
Hook: A 5.0 mm (H) or 5.5 mm (I) crochet hook. Check your gauge before you begin — it makes a significant difference in fit.
Buttons: 3 to 5 buttons, approximately 3/4 inch to 1 inch in diameter. This is your opportunity to have fun. Pick buttons that reflect your personal style.
Stitch markers: A few of these will help you mark the beginning of rounds and keep track of increases and decreases.
Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends and sewing on buttons.
Measuring tape: You’ll need this to check your gauge and your body measurements.
Scissors: For cutting yarn as needed.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is written to fit a range of sizes. Here’s a general breakdown based on hip measurements:
Size Small fits hips 34–36 inches. Size Medium fits hips 37–39 inches. Size Large fits hips 40–42 inches. Size XL fits hips 43–45 inches. Size 2XL fits hips 46–48 inches.
The waistband is designed to sit at the natural waist or just below, and the foldover style means it has some natural stretch and adjustability. If your measurements fall between sizes, size up for a more relaxed fit or size down for a snugger fit.
Gauge
Gauge is especially important for wearable items like shorts. Take the time to swatch before you begin — it will save you from making a pair of shorts that don’t fit.
For this pattern, the gauge is: 14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet using a 5.0 mm hook.
If your swatch is smaller than 4 inches across 14 stitches, go up a hook size. If your swatch is larger, go down a hook size. Block your swatch if you plan to block your finished shorts, since this can slightly change your measurements.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp = space
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
rep = repeat
pm = place marker
rem = remaining
tog = together
yo = yarn over
The primary stitch used throughout the body of the shorts is the half double crochet (hdc). This stitch creates a fabric that’s sturdy enough to hold its shape but still has a nice drape and stretch that makes it comfortable to wear. The foldover waistband is worked in rows rather than rounds, which gives it a clean, tidy edge on both the inside and outside of the fold.
Construction Overview
Before you start working, it helps to understand how the shorts come together. The shorts are constructed from the top down, worked in the round. You’ll begin with the waistband, which is worked as a long rectangular panel and then seamed together at the ends. This waistband is tall enough to fold over itself, which creates the signature foldover look.
From the bottom edge of the waistband, you’ll pick up stitches and work the body of the shorts in the round, shaping for the hips and working down to the crotch. At the crotch, you’ll divide the work to create two separate leg openings, and each leg is worked separately in the round down to your desired length.
Buttons are sewn onto the right side of the foldover portion of the waistband as a decorative detail. If you’d like, you can create small button loops on the outer edge for the buttons to actually fasten through — but for most people, the buttons are sewn on as an embellishment and the foldover stays in place naturally.
Written Pattern
Part One: The Waistband
The waistband is worked flat in rows, then seamed at the short ends to form a tube.
For Size Small: Chain 21.
For Size Medium: Chain 23.
For Size Large: Chain 25.
For Size XL: Chain 27.
For Size 2XL: Chain 29.
Row 1 (RS): Starting in the second ch from hook, hdc across. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in BLO across. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 until your waistband measures the following length when stretched slightly:
Size Small: 34 inches. Size Medium: 37 inches. Size Large: 40 inches. Size XL: 43 inches. Size 2XL: 46 inches.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.
Fold the waistband in half lengthwise so that the wrong sides are facing each other. Seam the two short ends together using a slip stitch or whip stitch seam to form a tube. You should now have a doubled waistband tube. Set this aside.
Part Two: The Body
With the RS of your waistband facing outward, join yarn at the seam and begin working in the round along one long edge of the waistband (this will become the bottom edge).
For Size Small: Work 112 hdc evenly around. Join with sl st. (112 sts)
For Size Medium: Work 122 hdc evenly around. Join with sl st. (122 sts)
For Size Large: Work 132 hdc evenly around. Join with sl st. (132 sts)
For Size XL: Work 142 hdc evenly around. Join with sl st. (142 sts)
For Size 2XL: Work 152 hdc evenly around. Join with sl st. (152 sts)
Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.
Repeat Round 1 for 4 more rounds (5 total body rounds completed).
Hip Shaping Increases (optional, recommended for sizes L and above):
Round 6: Ch 1, hdc in first 10 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in 20 sts, 2 hdc in next st rep around to last 10 sts, hdc to end. Join with sl st.
Round 7: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.
Repeat Round 7 until the body measures approximately 8–9 inches from the bottom of the waistband (or 9–10 inches if you prefer a longer rise).
Part Three: Dividing for the Legs
At this point, you will divide your work in half to create the front and back panels of the crotch.
Place a stitch marker at the center front and center back of your round to divide it into two equal halves.
Crotch Shaping:
Row 1 (front panel): Ch 1, hdc across front half of sts. Turn. (half of total stitch count)
Row 2: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (2 sts decreased)
Row 3: Ch 1, hdc across. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2–3 two more times, then work one final decrease row. You should have decreased a total of 6 sts on the front panel.
Fasten off. Work the back panel in the same way.
After shaping both panels, use a tapestry needle and yarn to seam the front and back crotch panels together, matching the shaped edges. This creates the crotch seam that separates the two leg openings.
Part Four: The Legs
Join yarn at the inner leg seam of one leg opening.
Round 1: Ch 1, hdc evenly around the leg opening. Join with sl st. (approximately 50–60 sts depending on size — adjust to your stitch count from the body)
Round 2: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.
Repeat Round 2 until the leg measures your desired length. For mid-thigh shorts, approximately 4–5 rounds is typical. For longer shorts, continue for additional rounds.
Leg Edging:
Final Round: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
Repeat for second leg.
Part Five: Finishing and Buttons
Weave in all ends using your tapestry needle. At this point, you can wet block your shorts by soaking them in cool water, gently pressing out the excess water in a towel, and laying them flat to dry in your desired shape. Blocking is especially beneficial for cotton yarn and will help your finished shorts look polished and professional.
Once your shorts are dry, it’s time to add the buttons. Fold the waistband down to the outside to create the foldover. The fold should sit approximately halfway down the waistband.
Decide how many buttons you want and space them evenly around the front of the foldover. Three buttons centered at the front gives a classic, tidy look. Five buttons spread more generously around the front adds more visual interest and a sportier feel.
Using a length of thread that matches your buttons or your yarn, sew each button securely through both layers of the folded waistband. This actually helps keep the foldover in place in addition to serving as a decorative detail. Make a few passes through the button holes and around the button shank to ensure it won’t come loose with wear and washing.
If you’d like your buttons to actually fasten and unfasten, you can create small button loops along the upper folded edge before you sew on the buttons. To make a loop, cut a short length of yarn, thread it through your tapestry needle, and pull it through a stitch at the fold line. Tie the ends together to form a small loop just large enough for your button to pass through, then sew the button onto the lower portion of the foldover to align with each loop.
Tips for Customizing Your Shorts
One of the best things about making your own wardrobe pieces is the ability to customize them completely. Here are some ideas for making this pattern your own.
Add a lace edging to the leg openings. A simple shell stitch or picot edging along the bottom of each leg adds a beautiful, feminine detail that elevates the whole look. Work a round of (sc, skip 1, 5 dc shell in next st, skip 1) around each leg opening for a quick and pretty shell edging.
Use a striped color scheme. Changing colors every few rounds in the body creates a bold striped effect that looks incredibly stylish and is a great way to use up leftover yarn from your stash. Just be sure to carry your yarn or cut and rejoin neatly to keep the inside of the shorts tidy.
Adjust the waistband height. If you prefer a taller, more dramatic foldover, simply chain more stitches at the beginning of your waistband. If you want a slimmer waistband, chain fewer stitches. The beauty of this design is how flexible it is.
Try it in a different stitch pattern. The body of the shorts works beautifully in moss stitch (alternating single crochets and chain spaces), which creates a lovely textured fabric with great drape. If you swap out the hdc for a moss stitch pattern, just be sure to swatch and adjust your stitch counts accordingly.
Add pockets. A simple patch pocket sewn onto the front of the shorts is both cute and functional. Work a small rectangle in hdc, block it flat, and whip stitch it onto the front panel of the shorts before seaming.
Care Instructions
Since these shorts are most likely made in cotton or a cotton blend, they can typically be machine washed on a gentle cycle in cold water. Lay flat to dry rather than putting them in the dryer to preserve the shape and prevent any shrinkage. Always check the care label on your specific yarn for guidance, since some blends or specialty yarns may have different requirements.
A Note on Fit and Alterations
Crochet has a natural give and stretch to it, which works in your favor with fitted garments like shorts. That said, getting the right gauge and choosing the right size for your measurements is still the most important factor in achieving a good fit. If your finished shorts are too loose in the waist, try washing and drying them according to the care instructions — cotton tends to tighten up slightly after washing. If they’re a little snug in the hips, blocking them generously can give you a bit more room.
Don’t be discouraged if your first wearable crochet garment doesn’t fit perfectly on the first try. Garment making has a learning curve, and every pair of shorts you make will teach you something new about how crochet fabric behaves on the body. The notes you take as you go — your hook size, your yarn, your modifications — are invaluable for future projects.
Share Your Make!
If you make these foldover crochet shorts, please share your finished project! Tag your photos so the whole crochet community can see your beautiful work and the unique buttons you chose. Seeing how different makers interpret the same pattern — with different yarns, different colors, different button choices — is one of the most joyful parts of being part of the crochet community.
Happy crocheting, and enjoy wearing your handmade shorts all season long! 🧶✨