Free Crochet Mesh Front Tie Cardigan Pattern for Daywear

There is something deeply satisfying about wearing something you made yourself, especially when it looks like it came straight off a boutique rack. The mesh front tie cardigan is one of those pieces that manages to feel effortlessly stylish while also being genuinely wearable. It layers beautifully over a tank top or bralette, ties at the front for a flattering silhouette, and the open mesh stitch keeps it light enough for warm-weather days. Best of all, it is entirely achievable for intermediate crochet hooks — and this free pattern walks you through every step.

Whether you are building a summer wardrobe, looking for a beach cover-up that doubles as a daywear staple, or simply wanting a project that produces something you will actually reach for again and again, this cardigan checks every box. The pattern uses a simple mesh stitch that creates that breezy, open fabric you see all over fashion right now, and the construction is straightforward enough that you will not need to puzzle over confusing instructions or hunt down obscure techniques.

Let’s get started.

About This Pattern

This cardigan is designed as a lightweight, open-front layer meant for daywear. It features a front tie that sits just below the bust or at the waist depending on your length preference, giving it that gathered, feminine look that works beautifully with high-waisted jeans, linen shorts, or flowy skirts. The mesh stitch construction means the finished fabric has excellent drape — it moves with you rather than sitting stiff on your shoulders.

The pattern is written for a finished bust measurement of approximately 36 inches (size medium), with guidance at the end for adjusting to other sizes. The yarn weight and hook size give you a fabric that is substantial enough to hold its shape but open enough to stay cool on warm days, making it ideal for spring, summer, and early fall.

Skill level: Intermediate. You should be comfortable with basic stitches, working in rows, and seaming. If you have made a granny square and a basic rectangle, you have the skills for this project.

Materials You Will Need

Before you begin, gather everything so your work session flows without interruption.

Yarn: Approximately 400–500 yards of DK weight yarn or light worsted in a smooth fiber. Cotton, cotton-blend, or bamboo yarns work especially well here because they drape beautifully and breathe in warm weather. Avoid anything too fuzzy or textured, as it will obscure the mesh stitch definition. Some lovely options include Paintbox Simply DK, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, or any similar yarn you have on hand or can source locally.

Hook: US size G/6 (4.00 mm) crochet hook. If you crochet tightly, go up half a size. If you tend to crochet loosely, try going down half a size and check your gauge swatch before committing to the full project.

Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming, scissors, stitch markers, a measuring tape, and blocking pins if you plan to wet block the finished piece (highly recommended for cotton yarns).

Optional: A small amount of coordinating ribbon or a length of the same yarn twisted into a cord for the front tie, if you prefer a different look than the built-in ties.

Gauge

Gauge matters more in garment construction than in most other crochet projects, so please take the time to work a swatch before diving in.

Gauge: 16 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches in mesh stitch pattern

To check your gauge, chain 24 and work the mesh stitch pattern for 14 rows. Block your swatch lightly, let it dry, then measure a 4-inch square from the center (avoiding the edges, which tend to curl). If your gauge is too tight — meaning your swatch measures smaller than 4 inches — go up a hook size. If it measures larger, go down a hook size. Adjust until your gauge matches before beginning the body.

Abbreviations

All abbreviations in this pattern follow US crochet terminology.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
ch-sp — chain space
sp — space
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
sk — skip
st(s) — stitch(es)
yo — yarn over

Understanding the Mesh Stitch

The mesh stitch used in this cardigan is one of the most elegant and beginner-friendly lace-style stitches in crochet. It creates a grid of open squares by combining double crochets with chain spaces, and it repeats every two stitches across, making the count very easy to track.

Mesh Stitch Pattern (worked in rows over a multiple of 2 stitches + 1):

Foundation chain: Chain your required number (always a multiple of 2 plus 4 for the turning chain).

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 6th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 1, sk 1 ch), ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch; rep from across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), sk first dc, dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from to turning ch, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch. Turn.

Rep Row 2 for pattern.

Once you get the rhythm of this stitch, your hook will move automatically. The key is to always place your double crochet into the dc of the previous row, not into the chain space — a common beginner mistake that creates a different texture. Keep your eye on where the dc posts are and you will be fine.

Pattern Instructions

Back Panel

The cardigan is constructed in panels — a back piece, two front pieces, and two sleeves — that are then seamed together. This flat construction method makes it very easy to keep track of your progress and to try the pieces on as you go.

Foundation: Chain 74.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 6th ch from hook, ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch; rep from across — you will have 35 dc and 35 ch-1 spaces, plus the initial turning ch counts as one dc. Turn.

Rows 2–40: Work in mesh stitch pattern as established. Rep Row 2 of the mesh stitch pattern. After 40 rows, your back panel should measure approximately 18 inches tall and 18 inches wide. Fasten off and weave in ends.

If you want a longer cardigan that hits below the hip, work to 46 or 50 rows. For a cropped version that sits at the waist, work to 30 rows.

Right Front Panel

The two front panels are narrower than the back, as the cardigan is open at the front. Each front panel will be approximately 8 inches wide.

Foundation: Chain 38.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 6th ch from hook, ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch; rep from across — 17 dc and 17 ch-1 spaces. Turn.

Rows 2–40: Work in mesh stitch pattern as established. After 40 rows, your right front panel should measure approximately 8 inches wide and 18 inches tall. Fasten off and leave a tail for seaming.

Left Front Panel

Work exactly the same as the Right Front Panel. Fasten off and leave a tail for seaming.

Sleeves (Make 2)

The sleeves are worked as a simple rectangle and then seamed along the long edge to form a tube, then attached to the body. This makes a relaxed, slightly oversized sleeve that hits mid-forearm — perfect for a daywear layer.

Foundation: Chain 50.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 6th ch from hook, ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch; rep from across — 23 dc and 23 ch-1 spaces. Turn.

Rows 2–22: Work in mesh stitch pattern as established. After 22 rows, your sleeve panel should measure approximately 12 inches wide and 10 inches tall. Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming.

For a shorter sleeve that sits just below the shoulder, work only 10 rows. For a full three-quarter sleeve, work to 30 rows.

Assembling the Cardigan

Now comes the moment where all your panels transform into a wearable garment. Take your time with assembly — careful seaming makes the difference between a polished finish and something that looks homemade in the less flattering sense.

Shoulder Seams: Place the back panel and one front panel with right sides facing each other, aligning the top edges. Using your yarn needle and a length of yarn, seam together across approximately 3 inches from the outer edge (this is your shoulder seam). Repeat for the other front panel on the opposite side. When you turn the pieces right side out, you will have an opening in the center back neckline and open front edges — this is correct.

Side Seams: With right sides facing, align the back panel and front panels along their side edges (the long vertical edges). Seam from the bottom up approximately 12 inches, leaving the top 6 inches open as your armhole. Repeat on both sides.

Sleeve Seams: Fold each sleeve panel in half lengthwise with right sides together. Seam along the long raw edge to form a tube. Turn right side out.

Attaching the Sleeves: Insert one sleeve into one armhole opening, aligning the seam of the sleeve with the side seam of the body. Pin carefully around the armhole, easing the sleeve to fit evenly. Seam around the entire armhole. Repeat for the second sleeve. Turn the cardigan right side out and try it on — the sleeves should hang slightly dropped, which gives the relaxed daywear silhouette this pattern is designed for.

Working the Border and Tie

The border is where this cardigan goes from a collection of seamed panels to a finished, polished piece. It also creates the front ties that give the garment its signature look.

Foundation Round for Border:

Join yarn at the bottom right corner of the right front panel. Work sc evenly up the right front edge, across the back neck, and down the left front edge. When working across the back neck, you will have fewer stitches than along the front edges — work approximately 1 sc per row along the straight edges and 2 sc per corner to keep the border lying flat. Join with a sl st to your first sc and do not turn.

Tie Strips:

For the front ties, you will extend the border at a specific point to create two long strips that tie at the center.

On the right front panel, count approximately 8–10 rows up from the bottom edge — this is where your tie will attach, creating a tie that falls at the waist or just below the bust depending on your cardigan length. Place a stitch marker at this point on both front panels to keep them even.

Working the border again, when you reach the stitch marker on the right front edge, chain 60 (or adjust for your desired tie length — 60 chains gives you a tie of approximately 12 inches on each side once the sc edging is worked back). Work sc in each chain back toward the body. Continue working sc up the remaining right front edge, across the neck, and down the left front edge. When you reach the stitch marker on the left front edge, chain 60 and work sc in each chain back toward the body. Continue sc down the remaining left front edge.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Finishing Touches

Blocking: This step is genuinely worth the effort, especially if you used a cotton or bamboo yarn. Wet block the finished cardigan by submerging it in cool water for 20 minutes, gently squeezing out excess water (never wring), then pinning to your measurements on a blocking mat or a clean towel on the floor. Let it dry completely before wearing. Blocking evens out the mesh stitch beautifully, opens up the lace, and helps the garment hold its shape wear after wear.

Weaving in Ends: Before blocking, make sure all yarn ends are woven in securely in two directions to prevent unraveling. Cotton yarns in particular can be slippery, so take a few extra passes when securing your ends.

Size Adjustments

This pattern as written fits a 34–36 inch bust. Here is how to adjust for other sizes.

For a smaller size (30–32 inch bust), work the back panel over a foundation chain of 62 and each front panel over a foundation chain of 32.

For a larger size (38–40 inch bust), work the back panel over a foundation chain of 86 and each front panel over a foundation chain of 44.

For sizes above 40 inches, continue adding 12 chains to the back panel and 6 chains to each front panel for every additional 2 inches of bust measurement you want to accommodate. Always remember to add stitches in even increments (multiples of 2) to maintain the mesh stitch repeat.

The length of the cardigan is entirely adjustable — simply work more or fewer rows before seaming. A good rule of thumb is that each 2 rows of mesh stitch adds approximately 1 inch to the length.

Styling Your Mesh Front Tie Cardigan

Part of what makes this pattern so worth your time is how versatile the finished piece truly is. The open mesh fabric means it pairs well with almost anything because it does not compete visually — it enhances.

For a relaxed daytime look, try it over a fitted white tank tucked into high-waisted wide-leg trousers, with the ties left loose and slightly open at the front. For beach or poolside wear, layer it over a swimsuit with the ties knotted firmly and add flat sandals. In the evening, swap the tank for a silky slip top and the mesh will catch the light in the most beautiful way.

Color is a major creative choice here. Classic neutrals like cream, sand, sage, and white photograph beautifully and work with everything in your wardrobe. But if you want your cardigan to be a statement piece, a deep terracotta, dusty rose, or even a bold cobalt blue in a smooth cotton yarn looks absolutely stunning worked up in this stitch.

Tips for Success

Work a gauge swatch and actually measure it — it takes fifteen minutes and can save hours of frogging later. Count your stitches at the end of every row for the first ten rows until the mesh pattern feels completely automatic. Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of each row and at any shaping point. When seaming, use the same yarn you worked your project in so the seams blend seamlessly. If your yarn is particularly dark and hard to see, consider seaming with a slightly lighter shade in the same fiber family.

Most importantly, take your time. This is not a race. The mesh stitch moves quickly once you find your rhythm, and the satisfaction of wearing something you made carefully and well is worth every minute you invest in it.

A Note on Yarn Substitutions

If the yarns mentioned in the materials section are not available to you, any smooth DK or light worsted in a natural fiber or natural fiber blend will work beautifully. The key qualities to look for are smoothness (so the stitch definition reads clearly), good drape (so the finished cardigan flows rather than standing stiff), and a fiber content appropriate for your climate and care preferences. Wool works in cooler climates, but cotton or bamboo is the clear winner for warm weather daywear.

Always purchase a skein and swatch before buying your full project quantity — dye lots vary, and you want to ensure you have enough yarn from the same lot to finish the project without color variations showing.

This mesh front tie cardigan is one of those patterns that earns a permanent spot in your project rotation. Once you have made one, you will inevitably want to make another in a different color, a different length, or with a different sleeve. The construction is logical, the stitch is meditative, and the finished result is something you will genuinely be proud to wear. Save this pattern, share it with your crochet friends, and enjoy the process of making something beautiful from scratch.

Happy hooking.