Lavender Daisy Baby Sundress: A Free Crochet Pattern Your Little One Will Love
There is something undeniably magical about handmade baby clothing. When you crochet a garment for a little one, you are pouring time, love, and creativity into every stitch. The finished piece becomes more than just clothing — it becomes a memory, something that might even be passed down through generations. This lavender daisy baby sundress is exactly that kind of project. It is sweet, summery, and surprisingly achievable even if you are not an expert crocheter. With its delicate floral bodice and flowing skirt, it looks like it came straight out of a boutique, but the best part is that you can make it yourself for free using this pattern.
Whether you are making this dress for a new baby shower gift, a birthday present, or simply because you saw a tiny person who deserved something beautiful, this pattern has everything you need. We will walk through materials, gauge, sizing, stitch counts, and every row of the construction so you finish with a dress that fits beautifully and looks absolutely charming.
Let us get started.
About This Pattern
This lavender daisy baby sundress is designed in a cottagecore-inspired style with a textured daisy stitch bodice that flows into a simple yet elegant skirt. The color palette centers on soft lavender with white or cream daisy accents, though you can easily substitute any colors that suit your taste or the occasion. The dress is worked in multiple pieces — a front bodice, a back bodice, and a skirt — then seamed and finished with a delicate ruffle or trim if desired.
The pattern is written for sizes 0–3 months, 3–6 months, and 6–12 months, with stitch count adjustments noted throughout. If you are new to reading multi-size patterns, the numbers in parentheses correspond to the larger sizes in that order.
Materials You Will Need
Before casting on (or in this case, pulling up your first loop), gather everything on this list so your project goes smoothly from start to finish.
Yarn: You will need approximately 200 (250, 300) yards of DK weight yarn in lavender, plus 75 (100, 125) yards in white or cream for the daisy accents. Look for a soft, baby-safe yarn that is machine washable. Cotton blends or bamboo-cotton yarns work beautifully for summer garments because they are breathable and gentle against delicate skin. Some excellent choices include Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend, We Are Knitters The Pima Cotton, or any similarly weighted yarn you love.
Hook: Size 3.5mm (E/4) crochet hook, or the size needed to achieve gauge.
Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming, stitch markers (at least four), scissors, two or three small buttons in white or pearlescent finish for the back closure, and a small length of ribbon in white or lavender if you choose to add a sash tie at the waist.
Gauge: 18 stitches and 22 rows = 4 inches in single crochet with the 3.5mm hook. Always check your gauge before beginning. If your gauge is off, your finished dress will not match the intended dimensions, and with baby clothing the difference of even half an inch can change the sizing significantly.
Abbreviations
Throughout this pattern the following standard US crochet abbreviations are used:
ch — chain, sc — single crochet, dc — double crochet, hdc — half double crochet, sl st — slip stitch, sk — skip, st(s) — stitch(es), sp — space, rep — repeat, RS — right side, WS — wrong side, yo — yarn over, tog — together, BLO — back loop only, FLO — front loop only, pm — place marker, sm — slip marker.
Understanding the Daisy Stitch
The daisy stitch used for the bodice of this dress creates a raised, flower-like texture that gives the garment its namesake look. It is worked over a specific stitch multiple, so it is important to keep your foundation chain count correct.
To work a daisy cluster (used in the bodice): Insert your hook into the indicated stitch, yo and pull up a loop. Without completing the stitch, insert your hook into the next stitch, yo and pull up a loop again. Repeat once more in the following stitch so you have four loops on your hook. Yo and draw through all four loops. Ch 1 to close the cluster. This creates one daisy “petal” unit. When worked in rows with white contrast yarn, these clusters give the appearance of small flowers blooming across the fabric.
Take a few minutes to practice this cluster stitch before beginning the bodice. Once you feel comfortable with the tension, the rhythm of the stitch becomes quite satisfying.
Pattern Instructions
Bodice Front
With lavender yarn, ch 43 (49, 55).
Foundation Row (WS): Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. You will have 42 (48, 54) sc.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first 2 sts. Join white yarn (carry lavender loosely along the edge or fasten off and rejoin as you prefer). Work daisy cluster over the next 3 sts. Ch 1. Sc in next 1 st, daisy cluster over next 3 sts, ch 1. Rep from across to last 2 sts. Drop white, pick up lavender. Sc in last 2 sts. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): With lavender, ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp across. Turn. You will have 42 (48, 54) sc.
Row 3 (RS): With lavender, ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2.
Row 5 (RS): Repeat Row 1, working daisy clusters with white yarn.
Row 6 (WS): Repeat Row 2.
Row 7 (RS): Repeat Row 3.
Row 8 (WS): Repeat Row 2.
Continue alternating the daisy cluster rows every four rows (so daisy rows occur on Rows 1, 5, 9, and 13) until the bodice measures 4 (4.5, 5) inches from the foundation row, ending with a WS row.
Armhole Shaping: On the next RS row, sl st across the first 3 (3, 4) sts, ch 1, sc across to last 3 (3, 4) sts, leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. You will have 36 (42, 46) sts.
Decrease one stitch at each end of every RS row 2 (3, 3) times by working sc2tog at the beginning and end of each decrease row. You will have 32 (36, 40) sts remaining.
Continue working in pattern without shaping until the armhole measures 2 (2.25, 2.5) inches.
Neck and Shoulder Shaping: Work across the first 10 (11, 12) sts, turn, leaving the center 12 (14, 16) sts unworked for the neck opening. Work 2 rows on this shoulder section. Fasten off. Rejoin yarn at the other shoulder, work 2 rows on the remaining 10 (11, 12) sts. Fasten off.
Bodice Back (Make Two Panels)
The back of the dress is made in two separate panels that overlap slightly at center back for the button closure.
With lavender, ch 24 (27, 30).
Foundation Row (WS): Sc in the second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. You will have 23 (26, 29) sc.
Work in pattern to match the front bodice, following the same daisy cluster row placement, until the piece measures the same length as the front bodice to the armhole.
Armhole Shaping: Shape only the outer armhole edge (not the center back edge). Sl st across the first 3 (3, 4) sts at the outer edge on the next RS row, then decrease one stitch at that edge every RS row 2 (3, 3) times. Keep the center back edge straight. Continue until the armhole matches the front armhole depth.
Shoulder: Work the outer 10 (11, 12) sts for 2 rows. Fasten off. Make the second back panel as a mirror image.
Joining the Bodice
With RS together, seam the shoulder seams using your yarn needle and a mattress stitch or whip stitch. Then seam the side seams from the bottom edge of the armhole down to the lower edge of the bodice. Weave in all ends. Turn RS out.
Skirt
The skirt is worked in the round, joined at the lower edge of the bodice. It begins with an increase round to create the gathered, full look that makes the dress so charming.
With RS facing and lavender yarn, join yarn at one of the side seams at the lower edge of the bodice.
Set-Up Round: Ch 1, sc evenly around the lower edge of the bodice. You will pick up approximately 42 (48, 54) sts. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Do not turn — you will work in joined rounds from here.
Increase Round: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. You will have 84 (96, 108) dc.
Round 1: Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st. Dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st. Rep from around. Join. You will have 105 (120, 135) dc.
Rounds 3–6: Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join.
Round 7 (Eyelet Round): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), sk next 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts. Rep from around. Join to third ch of ch-5. This creates a pretty eyelet row that you can thread ribbon through later for a waist sash.
Rounds 8–12: Ch 3, dc in each ch-2 sp and each dc around. Join.
Round 13 (Petal Ruffle): Switch to white yarn. Ch 1. In each st around, work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) to create a simple shell ruffle. Join. Fasten off.
Alternatively, if you prefer a scalloped edge instead of a ruffle, work the final round as follows: Sl st in first st, sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sl st in next st. Rep from around. Join. Fasten off.
Both edging options are lovely — choose whichever suits your aesthetic.
Straps
With lavender, ch 36 (38, 42). Sc in the second ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Make two straps.
Sew one end of each strap to the front shoulder edge of the bodice and the other end to the back shoulder edge, adjusting placement to suit the baby’s measurements. You can also work a button loop at the back strap end and sew a button to the back panel for an adjustable closure, which is especially handy as babies grow quickly.
Back Button Closure
Overlap the two back panels by about 1 inch. On the top panel, use your yarn needle and yarn or thread to work two or three small button loops evenly spaced along the center back edge. Sew corresponding buttons to the underneath panel. The button closure makes dressing and undressing easy — a feature every parent will appreciate.
Finishing Touches
Block your finished dress gently by soaking it in cool water, pressing out excess water without wringing, and laying it flat to dry. Blocking evens out the stitches and gives the daisy clusters a crisp, defined look that really shows off the texture.
If you added the eyelet round to the skirt, thread a length of narrow satin ribbon through the eyelets using a yarn needle or a small safety pin as a guide. Tie it in a bow at the front. This simple touch transforms the dress from sweet to absolutely stunning and also allows you to cinch the waist slightly for a more tailored silhouette.
Sizing Notes and Modifications
As babies grow at wildly different rates, it is always worth measuring the actual baby if possible rather than relying solely on age ranges. For this dress, the key measurements are chest circumference, length from shoulder to hem, and torso length from shoulder to waist.
To lengthen the bodice simply add more plain rows between daisy cluster rows. To widen the skirt or add more length, continue working in dc rounds before the ruffle round, adding an increase round roughly every 8 to 10 rounds to keep the skirt flowing.
If you want to make this pattern for a toddler size, increase your foundation chain by 12 stitches and add 3 to 4 additional inches of skirt length. A toddler version in size 12–18 months or 18–24 months works beautifully with the same daisy bodice construction.
You can also adjust the color palette completely. A soft mint green with yellow daisy accents would be gorgeous for spring. A pale peach with ivory clusters makes a lovely heirloom-style dress. White on white gives a classic christening gown feel. The structure of this pattern is versatile enough to support almost any color combination you can imagine.
Care Instructions for the Finished Garment
Always include care instructions when gifting handmade clothing. For this dress, machine wash on gentle cycle in cold water and lay flat to dry. Avoid the dryer, which can shrink and distort the stitches. Do not iron directly on the yarn — if pressing is needed, use a damp cloth between the iron and the garment.
Tips for Success
Read through the entire pattern at least once before you begin. This gives you a mental map of how the pieces fit together and prevents surprises mid-project. Keep your tension even throughout, particularly in the daisy cluster rows — the clusters have a tendency to pull tighter than the surrounding single crochet rows, which can create an uneven fabric.
Use stitch markers generously. Marking the beginning of rounds in the skirt section and the boundaries of the daisy cluster repeats in the bodice will save you from having to count and recount. If you find yourself frogging (ripping out) rows repeatedly, take a break. Fresh eyes always find mistakes faster than tired ones.
Finally, enjoy the process. Crocheting for a baby is one of the most genuinely joyful creative experiences because the scale is small, progress is fast, and the result is unbelievably cute. Every stitch you make is an act of love.
Share Your Make
If you use this pattern to make a lavender daisy baby sundress, share your finished project on social media with the hashtag #lavenderaisybabydress so other crocheters can find inspiration from your version. Seeing how different makers interpret the same pattern — different yarns, different color choices, different finishing details — is one of the best parts of being part of the crochet community.
Pin this post to your crochet boards, bookmark it for later, and share it with any crocheting friends who have a baby shower coming up. This pattern is completely free and always will be, because beautiful things should be accessible to everyone who wants to make them.
Happy crocheting.
