Crochet Mini Shorts Tutorial: Part 1 — Getting Started (Free Pattern!)

If you’ve been scrolling through crochet content lately, you’ve probably noticed that handmade fashion is having a serious moment. Crocheted tops, bags, and accessories have taken over feeds everywhere, but one piece that keeps turning heads is the crochet mini short. These adorable, boho-inspired bottoms are surprisingly wearable, endlessly customizable, and — best of all — totally achievable even if you’re an intermediate crocheter ready to try something new.

Welcome to Part 1 of this free crochet mini shorts tutorial! In this first installment, we’re going to cover everything you need before you pick up your hook: materials, yarn choices, sizing, gauge, foundation stitches, and the very beginning of the waistband. By the end of this post, you’ll have a solid foundation (literally!) and be ready to dive into the body of the shorts in Part 2.

Let’s get into it.

Why Crochet Mini Shorts?

Before we talk yarn weights and hook sizes, let’s take a second to appreciate why this project is so worth your time.

Crochet mini shorts are one of those projects that look incredibly impressive but are built on a surprisingly simple structure. Unlike garments with complex shaping like sleeves or collars, shorts follow a fairly logical path: waistband, body panels, crotch shaping, and leg openings. Once you understand the construction, it all clicks into place.

They’re also incredibly versatile. You can style them over swimwear as a beach cover-up, pair them with a flowy blouse for a festival look, or layer them over leggings for a textured streetwear vibe. The stitch pattern you choose changes everything — a tighter stitch gives you more coverage and structure, while an open lace stitch reads more bohemian and breezy.

And of course, making your own means you get to customize the fit. If you’ve ever struggled to find shorts that fit well in the waist AND the seat, you already know how game-changing that can be.

Materials You’ll Need

Let’s talk supplies. Here’s what you’ll want to gather before you begin.

Yarn

For this tutorial, we’re working with a medium weight (size 4) cotton yarn. Cotton is the go-to choice for crochet clothing because it has very little stretch on its own (which means your garment holds its shape), it’s breathable and comfortable against skin, and it comes in a gorgeous range of colors.

You’ll need approximately 400–600 yards depending on your size. Here’s a rough breakdown by size:

For a size small (waist 26–28 inches), plan on around 400 yards. For a medium (waist 28–30 inches), you’re looking at roughly 450–475 yards. For a large (waist 30–32 inches), budget around 500 yards. For an XL (waist 32–34 inches), you’ll want closer to 550–600 yards.

Always buy a little extra. Running out mid-project is the crochet equivalent of a flat tire — annoying and completely avoidable.

Some yarn brands that work beautifully for this project include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK Cotton (if you want a slightly lighter drape), Paintbox Simply Chunky for a more textured look, and We Are Knitters The Cotton for a luxurious finish.

Hook

You’ll be working with a 4.0mm or 4.5mm crochet hook for this pattern, depending on your tension. We’ll talk more about gauge in a moment, but if you tend to crochet tightly, go up a half size. If you naturally crochet loose, stick with the 4.0mm.

A comfortable ergonomic hook is especially important for garment projects because you’ll be working for extended periods. Brands like Clover Amour or Tulip Etimo are popular for a reason — your hands will thank you.

Other Supplies

Beyond yarn and hook, you’ll want a tape measure (non-negotiable for garment making), stitch markers (at least 6–10), a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and optionally some elastic for the waistband (¾ inch to 1 inch wide works well).

A notebook or sticky notes for jotting down your stitch counts as you go is also something I’d strongly recommend. Garment construction involves a lot of counting, and your future self will be grateful for the paper trail.

Understanding Gauge (And Why It Actually Matters Here)

I know, I know. Gauge swatches feel tedious. But for clothing — especially fitted clothing — gauge is everything. A slight difference in tension over 100 stitches turns into multiple inches of difference across a waistband, and that can mean the difference between a pair of shorts that fits beautifully and one that doesn’t close.

For this pattern, your gauge should be approximately 16 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches in the main stitch pattern (half double crochet, which we’ll cover shortly) using a 4.0mm hook and medium weight cotton yarn.

To check your gauge, crochet a swatch that’s at least 6 inches wide and 5 inches tall, then lay it flat without stretching it. Use your tape measure to measure a 4-inch section in the middle of the swatch (not at the edges, which can pull) and count your stitches and rows.

If you have more stitches than the pattern calls for in 4 inches, your tension is tight — try going up a hook size.

If you have fewer stitches than the pattern calls for in 4 inches, your tension is loose — try going down a hook size.

Once your gauge matches, you’re ready to start.

Sizing and Measurements

This free crochet mini shorts pattern is written for sizes XS through XL, and it’s worked based on your actual body measurements rather than generic sizing labels. Here’s how to measure yourself accurately.

Waist: Measure around the narrowest part of your natural waist, usually about an inch or two above your belly button. Keep the tape snug but not tight.

Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips and seat, usually about 7–9 inches below your natural waist.

Rise: This one trips people up sometimes. The rise is the measurement from your waistband (front) down through your crotch and back up to your waistband (back). To measure it, hold the tape at your front waistline, bring it down through your legs, and bring it back up to your back waistline. This determines the total height of your shorts panels and the crotch shaping depth.

Inseam: Measure from your crotch down to where you want the shorts to end. For a mini length, this is typically 2–4 inches.

Write all of these numbers down. You’ll reference them throughout the pattern.

Here are the finished measurements this pattern is designed to produce (after a light blocking):

XS: 24-inch waist, 32-inch hip, 9.5-inch rise
S: 26-inch waist, 34-inch hip, 10-inch rise
M: 28-inch waist, 36-inch hip, 10.5-inch rise
L: 30-inch waist, 38-inch hip, 11-inch rise
XL: 32-inch waist, 40-inch hip, 11.5-inch rise

If your measurements fall between sizes, size up for the hip measurement and adjust the waistband accordingly — we’ll walk through that adjustment in Part 2.

Abbreviations and Stitches Used

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Here’s a quick reference list:

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
rep — repeat
sk — skip
pm — place marker
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only

The main stitch we’ll be using in the body of the shorts is the half double crochet, abbreviated hdc. It creates a fabric that’s slightly thicker and more structured than single crochet but still has a nice drape. It also works up faster, which is always welcome on a larger project like a garment.

If you’re new to hdc, here’s a quick refresher: yarn over, insert hook into the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (you now have three loops on your hook), yarn over once more and pull through all three loops. That’s it. Practice a few rows and you’ll find it becomes second nature quickly.

We’ll also use working in the back loop only (BLO) for the waistband, which creates a lovely ribbed texture that has some natural stretch and recovery — important for a waistband that needs to hold its shape but also slip on comfortably.

Pattern Notes

Before we start stitching, a few important notes about how this pattern is structured.

The shorts are worked in two separate flat panels — a front panel and a back panel — which are then joined at the sides and shaped at the crotch. This construction method makes it easy to customize the fit, especially if your front and back measurements differ (which is very common and completely normal).

The waistband is worked first on each panel, then the body is built downward from the waistband. This means you’ll be working from waist to hem, which makes length adjustments simple.

The pattern is not worked in the round until the leg openings, which are finished with a round of single crochet and an optional picot edging.

If you’re adding an elastic waistband (recommended for a secure fit), you’ll thread it through after the shorts are complete. The BLO ribbing creates a natural channel that works perfectly for this.

Let’s Start Crocheting: The Waistband

Alright, here’s where the real fun begins. We’re going to start with the front panel waistband.

Foundation Chain

Using your 4.0mm (or 4.5mm) hook and your chosen cotton yarn, create a foundation chain. The number of chains depends on your size:

XS: chain 97
S: chain 105
M: chain 113
L: chain 121
XL: chain 129

These chain counts are based on the gauge we established earlier and account for a small amount of negative ease at the waist (meaning the waistband will be slightly smaller than your waist measurement, which helps it stay up). If you prefer no negative ease or plan to use elastic, you can add 4–6 chains.

Check your chain count twice before moving on — it’s much easier to recount now than to rip back later.

Row 1 (WS): Starting in the second chain from the hook, single crochet in each chain across. Turn. You should have the following stitch counts:

XS: 96 sc
S: 104 sc
M: 112 sc
L: 120 sc
XL: 128 sc

Row 2 (RS): Chain 1, single crochet in the back loop only of each stitch across. Turn.

Row 3: Chain 1, single crochet in the back loop only of each stitch across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 and Row 3 (alternating, always working in BLO) until your waistband measures 2 inches from the foundation edge. For most worsted weight cotton at this gauge, this will be approximately 7–9 rows total.

At the end of your last waistband row, do not fasten off. Place a stitch marker in your working loop to hold it while we check our work.

Lay your waistband flat. It should be stretchy horizontally thanks to the BLO ribbing. Measure the width — it should match your target waist measurement or be very close to it. Because BLO sc has some inherent stretch, even if the measurement seems slightly small while relaxed, it will accommodate your waist comfortably when worn.

If the waistband is significantly off (more than an inch), this is the time to adjust. You can add or remove chains from your starting chain in multiples of 4 to keep the stitch counts consistent with the rest of the pattern. Just make a note of how many stitches you ended up with, because that number will guide the rest of the pattern.

Transitioning from Waistband to Body

Now that your waistband is the right length and you’re happy with it, we’re going to pivot and begin building the body of the shorts downward.

The key transition row is where we switch from single crochet ribbing to half double crochet fabric. This row also sets up the stitch count for the body of the shorts, which in this pattern will be the same as your waistband stitch count (no increases yet — those come in Part 2 when we shape the hips).

Transition Row (counts as Row 1 of Body): With RS facing, chain 2 (does not count as a stitch in this pattern), and half double crochet across all stitches. Turn.

The chain 2 at the beginning of your hdc rows is there to bring your hook up to the correct height, but we’re not counting it as a stitch. This is a stylistic choice that keeps the edges of your panels cleaner and makes seaming easier later.

You should have the same stitch count as your waistband:

XS: 96 hdc
S: 104 hdc
M: 112 hdc
L: 120 hdc
XL: 128 hdc

Count your stitches at the end of this row. Place a stitch marker at the beginning and end of the row so you can always find your edges quickly.

Row 2: Chain 2, hdc in each stitch across. Turn.

Continue working even in hdc, repeating Row 2, until the body panel (not including the waistband) measures 1.5 inches from the transition row.

At this point, you’ve completed a beautiful start to your front panel. The waistband is structured and ribbed, the body fabric is smooth and slightly drapey, and your shorts are starting to take shape.

What’s Coming in Part 2

In Part 2 of this free crochet mini shorts tutorial, we’ll continue building the front panel with hip shaping increases, then work the back panel (which has a slightly different rise measurement for a better fit), join the two panels at the sides, and tackle the crotch shaping — which sounds intimidating but is actually quite manageable once you see the logic behind it.

We’ll also cover how to finish the leg openings and waistband edge for a polished, professional look, and talk through how to add elastic for extra security.

If you’re working ahead or want to read up before Part 2 drops, I’d suggest spending some time getting comfortable with increases in hdc, since that’s the primary shaping technique we’ll use.

Tips for Success

A few final thoughts before you set down your hook for now.

Always weave in your ends as you go rather than saving them all for the end. Garment projects can accumulate a surprising number of tails, and weaving them in throughout the process makes the finishing stage so much less daunting.

Block your swatch and your finished panels. Cotton responds beautifully to wet blocking — it evens out your tension, opens up the stitch definition, and gives the fabric a lovely drape. For blocking, simply soak the piece in cool water for 15–20 minutes, gently squeeze out the excess water (don’t wring), lay flat to the correct measurements, and allow to dry completely before seaming.

Take photos as you go. I know this sounds like extra effort, but if you ever need to troubleshoot or pick this project back up after a break, having visual reference points is genuinely invaluable.

Don’t be afraid to frog and restart if something feels off early on. A waistband that’s even slightly too tight or too loose will affect every part of the shorts that comes after it. Getting it right now saves you from much more significant ripping later.

And most importantly — enjoy the process. Crochet fashion is one of the most satisfying things you can make. Every row brings you closer to something beautiful that you made with your own hands.

Save this post so you can find Part 2 when it goes up, and if you’re already casting on, share your progress! There’s nothing better than seeing your work come to life, and a community of fellow crafters cheering you on makes the whole process even more fun.

Happy crocheting!