Sorry for the Delay, But Here’s Part 2! Your Free Crochet Pattern Is Finally Here

If you’ve been waiting patiently (or maybe not so patiently — I totally get it), today is your day. Part 2 is here, and I am so excited to finally share it with you. The response to Part 1 was absolutely overwhelming in the best possible way. Your comments, your DMs, your finished objects popping up in my notifications — all of it made my heart so full. So first things first: thank you. Genuinely, from the bottom of my yarn-covered heart, thank you for sticking around.

Now let’s get into it, because you didn’t click on this post to read me get emotional. You’re here for the crochet, and that’s exactly what I’m going to give you.

Why Part 2 Took a Little Longer Than Expected

I know, I know. You saw “Part 2 coming soon” and assumed that meant, like, three days. And here we are. Life happened in a big way between Part 1 and now — yarn orders got delayed, I frogged the sample piece twice because something just wasn’t sitting right with the stitch count, and honestly, I wanted this to be worth the wait. I’m a little bit of a perfectionist when it comes to patterns, and I refused to post something that would leave you confused halfway through a row with no idea how to fix it.

If you’re new here and stumbled across this post without seeing Part 1, no worries at all. I’ll link it below so you can catch up before diving in. For those of you who have already completed Part 1 and have your foundation ready, we are picking up exactly where we left off. Grab your hook, grab your yarn, and let’s get going.

What You’ll Need for Part 2

Before we jump into the actual pattern, let’s do a quick materials check. You should already have most of this from Part 1, but just in case you’re starting fresh or your yarn mysteriously walked off (it happens, especially if you have cats or small children), here’s a full refresher.

Yarn: A medium weight yarn, also known as worsted weight or a size 4, works best for this project. I personally used a cotton-acrylic blend because it gives the finished piece a nice drape while still holding its structure really well. That said, this pattern is pretty forgiving, and I’ve seen people complete it beautifully in everything from chunky yarn to a soft DK weight. Just be aware that your gauge and final dimensions will vary depending on what you choose.

Hook Size: A 5.0mm hook is what I used, but again, go with whatever gets you closest to gauge or whatever feels comfortable in your hand. Crochet is not one-size-fits-all, and your tension is your own unique thing. Don’t fight it.

Other Supplies: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (these will save your life in Part 2, I promise), and a flat surface or blocking mat if you want a really polished finished look.

A Quick Gauge Reminder

I touched on this in Part 1, but it bears repeating because gauge really does matter here, especially as we move into the more structural parts of this project. You want to aim for roughly 14 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches in single crochet with your chosen yarn and hook combination. If your swatch came out smaller, go up a hook size. If it came out larger, go down. A few stitches off might not seem like a big deal now, but as the piece grows, that difference compounds and your finished dimensions will be noticeably off.

Take the five minutes to check your gauge. Future you will say thank you.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

For those of you who are newer to reading crochet patterns, here’s a quick key so nothing catches you off guard.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
rep — repeat
sk — skip
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
PM — place marker
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only

Picking Up From Part 1

At the end of Part 1, you should have your foundation rows complete. Depending on which version of the project you’re making — and I know some of you went rogue and chose different colors, which I absolutely love — your piece should measure approximately 6 to 7 inches in length and you should have ended with a right side row facing up.

If something looks off, don’t panic. Take a moment to count your stitches against the final count I gave at the end of Part 1. If you’re off by one or two, you can fudge it a little in the first few rows of Part 2 without it being noticeable. If you’re off by more than that, it might be worth taking a few rows back to get aligned. I know frogging is painful — believe me, I have cried over it — but it is always worth it.

Part 2: The Full Written Pattern

Alright, here we go. This is the section you’ve all been waiting for, so I’m going to walk you through it step by step. I’ve written this out as clearly and completely as I can, and I’ve added notes throughout to explain my reasoning in spots where the instructions might seem a little unusual at first glance.

Row 1 of Part 2 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in BLO across to last st, sc in both loops of last st. (Your stitch count should match whatever you ended Part 1 with.)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in FLO across entire row.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts. Rep from to across row. If you have remaining stitches that don’t fit the full repeat, sc across those.

Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, turn. Sc across entire row working in both loops.

These four rows make up the main pattern repeat for Part 2. You will work this set of four rows a total of six times, or until your piece reaches your desired length, keeping in mind that we’ll be adding a border in Part 3.

I want to pause here and explain what Row 3 is doing, because a few people messaged me after Part 1 saying they weren’t sure why I introduced hdc and dc stitches when the rest of the fabric had been worked in single crochet. The answer is texture. Those taller stitches create a subtle, gentle wave pattern that you can feel with your fingers and see when the light hits the fabric just right. It’s one of my favorite little tricks for making something look much more complex and intentional than the actual stitch work requires. When you’re done, people will ask you how long you’ve been crocheting and assume the answer is decades. You’re welcome.

Color Change Instructions (For Those Using Multiple Colors)

If you’re making the version with color changes — and based on the comments on Part 1, a lot of you are doing some absolutely gorgeous color combinations — here is when and how to make those swaps cleanly.

Make your color change on the last stitch of any WS row, meaning you’ll pull through the final two loops with your new color rather than your current one. This creates a clean line on the RS of the fabric. Always carry your yarn loosely up the side rather than cutting and re-joining for every color change, especially if you’re alternating colors every two rows. It saves yarn, saves time, and saves your sanity when it comes to weaving in ends at the finish line.

If you’re doing a more dramatic color block situation — say, four or more rows in one color before switching — go ahead and cut your yarn and re-join. Carrying it too far up the side can cause the edge to pucker.

Shaping Notes for Part 2

This section is optional depending on what you’re making the project into. If you’re following the flat version, you can skip ahead. If you’re working toward a shaped piece — and some of you mentioned in the comments that you were adapting this — here’s what you need to know about increasing and decreasing within this pattern.

To increase at the beginning of a row, work two sc into the first stitch before beginning your pattern repeat. To increase at the end, work two sc into the last stitch instead of one. Mark these increased stitches with a stitch marker on the first time you work them so you can keep track as the row count climbs.

To decrease, use a sc2tog at the beginning and end of the row. This keeps your edges looking clean rather than creating those awkward little stair-step bumps you sometimes see with skipped stitches.

I recommend increasing or decreasing no more than once every four rows to keep the shaping gradual and the stitch pattern intact. Going too fast will start to distort your row 3 repeat and it won’t lay flat.

Troubleshooting the Common Problems I Know You’re Going to Have

I’ve been teaching crochet long enough (both in person and through posts like this one) to predict exactly where things go sideways. Here are the top three issues that came up in my DMs after Part 1, and how to fix them if they show up in Part 2.

The edges are curling. This almost always comes down to tension on your turning chain or in your first and last stitch of each row. Make sure you’re working into that final stitch of every row — it’s easy to miss — and try loosening up your turning chain just slightly. If curling persists, a border in Part 3 will help pull everything into line, but you can also try blocking your piece mid-project with a damp cloth and some pins.

Row 3 looks lumpy or uneven. Check your stitch placement. The hdc and dc stitches need to land in the same position relative to the repeat every time, otherwise the wave pattern won’t be consistent. Count out your repeat from the beginning of each row rather than eyeballing it, at least until you’ve internalized the rhythm of it. Once it clicks, you won’t need to count anymore.

I lost count and I don’t know if I’m on a RS or WS row. Look at your work. The RS will have that subtle wave texture visible, and your working yarn will be coming off the right-hand side of the piece when you hold it up. If your working yarn is on the left, you’re on the WS. You can also count your rows from the foundation — odd-numbered rows in this pattern are always RS rows.

How Much Yarn Will Part 2 Use?

Great question, and one I wish I’d answered preemptively because it came up a lot. Part 2 uses roughly 40 to 50 yards per six-row repeat, so for the full six repeats, you’re looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of 250 to 300 yards depending on your gauge and yarn weight. If you’re working with a skein that’s running low, now is a good time to wind off and check before you get stranded in the middle of a row — pun absolutely intended.

A Note on Modifications and Adaptations

I love seeing what you all do with free patterns. Seriously, the creativity in this community is something else entirely. Go ahead and adapt this. Change the yarn, change the colors, change the dimensions, add pockets, make it bigger, make it smaller, turn it into something I never imagined. The only thing I ask is that if you share your finished project — on TikTok, on Instagram, on your blog, wherever — please tag me and credit the pattern. It means the world and it helps other crafters find the tutorial.

If you make significant structural changes and want to share your version as a separate pattern, please reach out before doing that. Modified patterns are still derived from original work, and a quick message to collaborate or credit properly goes a long way.

What’s Coming in Part 3

I know you’re going to ask, so let me tell you now. Part 3 is the finishing section — the border, the final shaping, and any optional embellishments. I’m also going to include a full tutorial on how to seam if you’re making multiple panels, and a guide to blocking that actually makes sense for beginners.

I’m aiming to post Part 3 within two weeks. I said “aiming,” which means I’m giving myself grace and asking you to do the same. Life is a lot. But I promise it’s coming, and I promise it’ll be worth it just like this one was.

Final Thoughts Before You Start Stitching

Thank you again for being so patient and so enthusiastic about this project. Knowing that people are actually sitting down and making things from words I wrote is one of the most genuinely moving parts of sharing crochet online. It never gets old.

If you get stuck, drop a comment below. I check them and I respond, and often other people in the community will jump in to help before I even get there. That’s the kind of space I’m trying to build here — warm, helpful, judgment-free, and full of people who get genuinely excited about yarn.

Now go crochet. I’ll see you in Part 3.