Striped Crochet Shorts | Free Pattern & Video Tutorial

There is something undeniably satisfying about making your own clothing from scratch, and crochet shorts are one of those projects that feel both ambitious and completely achievable once you sit down and get started. Whether you are brand new to garment crochet or you have made a few wearable pieces before, striped crochet shorts are a wonderful project to add to your queue. They are playful, customizable, and genuinely fun to wear. This post walks you through everything you need to know, from choosing your yarn to finishing the waistband, with a free pattern included and a video tutorial to guide you along the way.

Why Crochet Your Own Shorts?

Let’s be real for a moment. There are plenty of places to buy shorts, so why would you spend hours making a pair? The answer is simple for anyone who has ever crocheted a garment: because nothing fits quite like something you made yourself. You get to choose the length, the rise, the stretch, the color combination. You can make them modest or cheeky, neutral or wildly colorful. You are not at the mercy of whatever trend is currently dictating what the fast fashion world thinks your body should look like.

Beyond fit, there is the matter of yarn. Most commercial shorts are made from synthetic fabrics that do not breathe well in summer heat. When you crochet with a plant-based fiber like cotton or linen, you end up with a garment that is genuinely comfortable in warm weather. Cotton is soft against skin, washes beautifully, and holds its shape well over time. It is the obvious choice for crochet shorts, and it is widely available in a huge range of colors.

Striped shorts in particular have a charm that solid-color shorts simply cannot match. Stripes add visual interest, make your project feel dynamic while you are working on it, and give you a chance to experiment with color theory without committing to anything too complicated. A two-color stripe is simple and graphic. A four-color stripe feels eclectic and boho. Even alternating two shades of the same color creates something that looks intentional and polished.

Materials You Will Need

Before you cast on (or, in crochet terms, before you make your foundation chain), you will want to gather all your materials so the process flows without interruption.

Yarn: You will need a DK weight or light worsted cotton yarn. For a size medium pair of shorts with a 10-inch inseam, plan on approximately 400 to 500 yards total across all your colors. If you are making wider stripes, you may need more of your dominant color. Popular choices for this kind of project include Paintbox Simply DK, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply Worsted, and Drops Safran. Any smooth, mercerized cotton will work beautifully and show off stitch definition.

Hook: A 4.0 mm to 5.0 mm hook works well depending on your tension and the yarn you choose. Always swatch first. A size 4.5 mm hook is a great starting point for DK cotton.

Notions: You will need a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, and a measuring tape. An elastic waistband (approximately 1 inch wide) cut to your waist measurement is needed for the waistband finishing. Optionally, a crochet hook one size smaller for the waistband casing makes that step easier.

Gauge: 16 stitches and 18 rows in half double crochet = 4 inches by 4 inches. Gauge matters enormously for garments. An extra stitch per inch across 60 stitches adds up fast, so please do not skip the swatch. Block your swatch before measuring.

Understanding the Construction

These shorts are worked in the round from the waistband down. You begin by crocheting the waistband as a long flat rectangle, seam it into a loop, and then pick up stitches around the edge to work the body of the shorts in joined rounds. The crotch shaping is worked using a gusset method, which is simpler than it sounds and produces a much more comfortable fit than a flat-seamed crotch. Once the gusset is established, each leg is worked separately in the round down to the hem.

This top-down construction means you can try the shorts on as you go, adding or subtracting length as needed before you ever bind off. It also means the stripe sequence is easy to maintain consistently from waistband to hem.

Sizing

This pattern is written for sizes XS through XL with a 4-inch ease for a comfortable, relaxed fit. Measure your hips at the fullest point and refer to the size chart below.

XS fits hips 32 to 34 inches. S fits hips 35 to 37 inches. M fits hips 38 to 40 inches. L fits hips 41 to 43 inches. XL fits hips 44 to 46 inches.

For sizes above XL, add 12 stitches per size to the starting chain and adjust your yarn quantity accordingly.

Choosing Your Stripe Colors

This is honestly the most fun part of planning the project. The stripe pattern in this tutorial uses two colors alternating every two rounds, which creates a classic, clean horizontal stripe. Color A is your main color and Color B is your contrast.

Some color combinations that work especially well: a warm terracotta paired with an off-white, a classic navy with a golden yellow, a soft sage green with a dusty rose, or an electric coral with a deep teal. If you want a more subtle look, try a stripe of white against cream or two values of the same hue, like a light dusty blue and a darker navy.

You can also do wider stripes, thinner stripes, or a graduated rainbow sequence. The pattern is flexible. If you change stripe width, simply adjust how many rounds you work in each color before switching.

Free Crochet Pattern

Abbreviations:
ch = chain, sc = single crochet, hdc = half double crochet, sl st = slip stitch, st(s) = stitch(es), sp = space, inc = increase (2 hdc in same stitch), BLO = back loop only, rep = repeat

Waistband

With Color A and a 4.0 mm hook, ch 9.

Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (7 hdc) Turn.

Row 2: ch 2, hdc BLO across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until the waistband measures 1 inch less than your actual waist measurement (the elastic will stretch it slightly).

Seam the short ends together with a sl st join to form a ring. Do not fasten off.

Body of the Shorts

Switch to your 4.5 mm hook. With Color A, work 1 sc evenly along the long edge of the waistband (approximately 1 sc per row end). Join with sl st to first sc to form a round. This is your stitch count for the body. It should equal your hip stitch count from the size chart.

Size XS: 80 stitches. S: 88 stitches. M: 96 stitches. L: 104 stitches. XL: 112 stitches.

If your picked-up stitch count differs slightly, increase or decrease evenly on the next round to reach the correct number.

Round 1: ch 2 (does not count as st here or throughout), hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.

Round 2: Switch to Color B. ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.

Round 3: ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.

Round 4: Switch to Color A. ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.

Round 5: ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.

Continue in this 2-round stripe sequence (2 rounds Color B, 2 rounds Color A) until the body measures 4 inches from the top of the waistband, ending after a complete Color A stripe.

Gusset

The gusset adds ease through the crotch and is worked flat before the legs are separated. Mark the center front and center back of the shorts.

Row 1 (RS): With Color A, hdc across the back half of your stitches to center front, ch 4, turn. (This creates the crotch chain that will bridge front to back for the second leg.)

Row 2: hdc back to center back, ch 4, turn.

Row 3: hdc across, working into each of the 4 ch stitches from Row 1. Continue around to work back to center front.

Join with sl st. Your shorts are now set up with the gusset chain forming the inner crotch seam. You will divide here into two legs.

Legs

Leg 1: Place a stitch marker at the gusset join. With Color A, ch 2, work in the round across the back half of the shorts plus 2 stitches of the gusset chain. Join.

Work even in the established 2-round stripe sequence until leg measures desired inseam length minus 0.5 inch. A 4-inch inseam gives a short-shorts look. An 8-inch inseam gives a more modest short. A 12-inch inseam approaches a Bermuda short length.

Hem: Switch to Color A. Work 1 round of sc. Work 1 round of reverse sc (crab stitch) for a clean, self-finishing edge. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Leg 2: Rejoin yarn to the opposite side of the gusset. Work same as Leg 1.

Finishing the Waistband:

Thread your 1-inch elastic through the waistband casing (the ribbing you made at the start). Overlap the ends by 1 inch and sew them together securely. The ribbing will fold over the elastic and encase it naturally. If desired, tack the casing closed with a few invisible stitches along the inside fold.

Weave in all remaining ends. Wash and block the shorts flat to set the stitches.

Tips for Getting the Best Results

Getting garment crochet right takes a little more care than making a dishcloth or a hat, but the effort is absolutely worth it. Here are some things to keep in mind as you work.

Tension: Cotton yarn does not have the same give as acrylic or wool. Your tension might feel tighter than usual at first. Try to keep your stitches relaxed, especially in the round. If you notice your fabric pulling or curling, go up a hook size.

Joining rounds without a visible seam: The sl st join creates a small jog at the beginning of each round, which is especially noticeable in stripes. To minimize this, try using a standing stitch to begin each new round instead of a ch 2 start. A standing hdc means you start the round with a loop on your hook in the new color and work directly into the first stitch without a chain. It creates a nearly invisible join.

Weaving in ends: Stripes mean a lot of color changes, which means a lot of ends. Do not try to crochet over them as you go with cotton, as it tends to show through more than wool. Instead, weave each end into stitches of the same color along the wrong side of the fabric for at least 2 to 3 inches, and then weave back in the opposite direction before trimming.

Blocking: This step transforms your shorts from something that looks handmade into something that looks professionally finished. Wash the finished shorts in cool water with a gentle soap, press out excess water without wringing, and lay flat to dry. Smooth out any uneven stitches and ensure the legs are even in length. Allow to dry completely before wearing.

Fit adjustments: If you find the shorts are slightly too large after blocking, elastic in the waistband will take up some ease. If they feel too small, consider adding a few extra stitches to the next size up at the gusset. Crochet fabric is forgiving within a range, and a well-blocked cotton fabric will relax slightly with wear.

Video Tutorial

The video tutorial linked with this post walks you through every step in real time, including the waistband construction, how to pick up stitches for the body, working the stripe sequence, the gusset shaping, and finishing the legs and hem. If you find written patterns hard to follow, especially for the gusset section, the video will make everything click into place. Watching someone work the gusset in real time is genuinely much easier than trying to parse the written instructions the first time around.

In the video, a size medium is worked throughout using a terracotta and off-white stripe combination. The finished shorts shown measure an 8-inch inseam and sit at the natural waist.

Customization Ideas

Once you have made the basic pattern once, you will find it easy to experiment with variations. Here are a few ideas to take your striped shorts in different directions.

Adding a pocket is simpler than it sounds. Work a small flat rectangle in sc, about 5 inches wide and 6 inches tall, and seam it onto the outside of the front panel before finishing the hem. A kangaroo pocket (centered across the front) looks especially cute on a relaxed pair of shorts.

A contrast hem instead of a matching hem adds a fun pop of color. Try finishing both legs in a single bold color that does not appear in the stripe sequence, or mirror the contrast color used in the waistband.

Changing the leg shape slightly is also possible. If you prefer a slightly flared leg, add a small increase (2 stitches spaced evenly on opposite sides of each round) every third round along the leg. For a more fitted silhouette, decrease by the same amount.

For a more textured look, try working the stripe rounds in a staggered shell stitch instead of hdc. The basic construction stays the same and the result is a much more decorative fabric that still maintains good drape.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make this pattern in a size larger than XL? Yes. Add 12 stitches to the starting count for each additional size and increase your yarn by about 75 yards per size up. The rest of the construction stays the same.

What if I want to use worsted weight yarn instead of DK? You can, but your gauge and hook size will change. Swatch to a gauge of 14 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches in hdc and adjust your stitch counts accordingly.

Can I use acrylic yarn? Technically yes, but cotton or a cotton blend is genuinely better for shorts. Acrylic does not breathe and can become uncomfortable in warmer weather, which is when you will be wearing these most. A bamboo-cotton blend is a wonderful alternative to straight cotton.

How do I wash finished crochet shorts? Machine wash on gentle in cool water or hand wash. Reshape while damp and lay flat to dry. Avoid high heat in the dryer, as it can cause cotton fabric to shrink.

Can a beginner make this pattern? If you are comfortable working in the round and have made at least one joined-round project before, you can absolutely make these shorts. The gusset is the trickiest section, but the video tutorial covers it in detail. The stripe sequence is simple and repetitive, which actually makes the project quite meditative once you are into the rhythm of it.

Final Thoughts

Crochet shorts are one of those garments that feels genuinely impressive when finished, even though the construction is more straightforward than it looks. The stripe sequence keeps the project interesting from start to finish, and the top-down construction means you have full control over fit at every stage. There is something deeply satisfying about pulling on a pair of shorts and knowing you made them yourself, from choosing the colors to working the last stitch of the hem.

Whether you are making these for yourself, as a gift, or as a fun summer project to work on outside with an iced coffee in hand, this pattern is designed to be approachable without sacrificing a polished result. Take your time with the gauge swatch, follow along with the video for the gusset, and do not skip the blocking step. Those three things alone will make a significant difference in how the finished shorts look and fit.

If you make a pair, I would love to see them. Tag your finished objects on social media and feel free to share this pattern with anyone who might enjoy it. Happy crocheting!