Free Knitted Sweater Pattern (XS–XXL): A Classic Pullover for Every Body
There is something deeply satisfying about wearing a sweater you made yourself. The weight of the yarn, the memory of each stitch, the way it fits your body in a way that no store-bought garment ever quite manages — it all adds up to something genuinely special. Whether you are brand new to knitting or a seasoned crafter looking for a reliable go-to pattern, this free knitted sweater pattern has you covered from size XS all the way through XXL.
This is a top-down raglan pullover worked in the round, which means minimal seaming, easy customization, and the ability to try it on as you go. It uses a worsted weight yarn and US size 7 and 8 needles, making it a relatively quick knit compared to many sweater patterns out there. The finished garment has a classic, relaxed fit with a slightly cropped option if you prefer a more modern silhouette.
Let’s get into everything you need to know to cast on and finish this sweater with confidence.
Materials You Will Need
Before diving into the pattern itself, gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you start will make the whole process feel much smoother.
Yarn: You will need a worsted weight yarn (approximately 200 yards per 100g skein). The exact yardage depends on your size, but here is a general guide. For XS and S, plan on approximately 900 to 1,000 yards. For M and L, plan on 1,100 to 1,300 yards. For XL and XXL, you will want 1,400 to 1,600 yards. Choose a yarn with good stitch definition, as it will make the simple design details read beautifully. A wool or wool-blend yarn is ideal for its elasticity and warmth, but a cotton-acrylic blend works wonderfully for spring knitting.
Needles: US size 8 (5mm) circular needles, 32 inches or longer, for the body and sleeves. US size 7 (4.5mm) circular needles for the ribbed collar, cuffs, and hem. You will also want a set of US size 8 DPNs (double-pointed needles) or a short circular for working the sleeves in the round, though magic loop on a long circular is a perfectly good alternative.
Notions: Stitch markers (at least 6), a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, a measuring tape, and scrap yarn or stitch holders for the underarm stitches.
Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch using US size 8 needles. Gauge is non-negotiable when it comes to sweaters, so please swatch before you begin. A 15-minute swatch can save you hours of frustration and yards of precious yarn.
Finished Measurements
This sweater is designed with approximately 2 to 4 inches of positive ease, meaning the finished garment will be slightly larger than your actual bust measurement. This creates a comfortable, relaxed fit rather than a close-fitting silhouette.
XS — Bust: 32–34 in / Finished garment chest: 35 in
S — Bust: 34–36 in / Finished garment chest: 38 in
M — Bust: 38–40 in / Finished garment chest: 42 in
L — Bust: 42–44 in / Finished garment chest: 46 in
XL — Bust: 46–48 in / Finished garment chest: 50 in
XXL — Bust: 50–52 in / Finished garment chest: 54 in
Body length from underarm to hem is approximately 14 inches for all sizes, though this is easy to adjust by simply knitting more or fewer rounds before the hem ribbing. Sleeve length from underarm to cuff is approximately 17 inches and equally easy to shorten or lengthen.
Abbreviations
Getting familiar with these abbreviations before you start will keep things moving smoothly as you read through the pattern.
CO — cast on
BO — bind off
k — knit
p — purl
pm — place marker
sm — slip marker
k2tog — knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
ssk — slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
m1r — make one right (a right-leaning increase)
m1l — make one left (a left-leaning increase)
rnd — round
st(s) — stitch(es)
rep — repeat
Pattern Notes
This sweater is worked top-down in the round, starting at the collar. Four raglan increase lines run diagonally from the neckline out toward the underarms, shaping the yoke as you go. Once the yoke reaches the correct depth, the sleeve stitches are placed on hold and the body is worked in the round to the hem. The sleeves are then picked up and worked down from the underarm.
Top-down construction is particularly beginner-friendly because you can try the sweater on at regular intervals. If you are between sizes or have a longer torso or longer arms than average, the top-down method makes it simple to add length wherever you need it.
All raglan increases are worked on right-side (odd-numbered) rounds only. Even-numbered rounds are worked plain.
The Pattern
Collar
Using US size 7 circular needles, CO the following number of stitches using a long-tail cast on or your preferred stretchy cast on.
XS: 72 sts / S: 76 sts / M: 80 sts / L: 84 sts / XL: 88 sts / XXL: 92 sts
Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a beginning-of-round marker.
Work in 2×2 ribbing (k2, p2) for 8 rounds for a standard turtleneck, or 4 rounds for a crew neck. If you prefer a mock neck, work 12 rounds.
Set Up the Yoke
Switch to US size 8 needles.
On the next round, you will place four raglan markers to divide your stitches into the four sections of the yoke: two sleeves, the front, and the back. The stitch counts below show how to distribute your stitches across those sections.
XS: Back: 22, Sleeve: 10, Front: 22, Sleeve: 10 (with 4 raglan “seam” stitches, worked as knit stitches, one between each section)
S: Back: 23, Sleeve: 11, Front: 23, Sleeve: 11 (4 seam stitches)
M: Back: 24, Sleeve: 12, Front: 24, Sleeve: 12 (4 seam stitches)
L: Back: 25, Sleeve: 13, Front: 25, Sleeve: 13 (4 seam stitches)
XL: Back: 26, Sleeve: 14, Front: 26, Sleeve: 14 (4 seam stitches)
XXL: Back: 27, Sleeve: 15, Front: 27, Sleeve: 15 (4 seam stitches)
Place a marker after each section (including after the single seam stitch), so you have 8 markers total, with the beginning-of-round marker serving as one of them.
Raglan Increase Round
The increase round is worked as follows: knit to 1 stitch before the raglan marker, m1r, k1 (seam stitch), sm, m1l, continue around, repeating this at each of the four raglan points. This adds 8 stitches per increase round.
Work the increase round, then knit one plain round. Repeat these two rounds until you reach the stitch counts below.
XS: 168 sts total (approximately 25 increase rounds)
S: 188 sts total (approximately 28 increase rounds)
M: 208 sts total (approximately 32 increase rounds)
L: 228 sts total (approximately 35 increase rounds)
XL: 248 sts total (approximately 38 increase rounds)
XXL: 268 sts total (approximately 41 increase rounds)
Try the yoke on as you go. You want the raglan increases to reach about 1 inch past the point of your shoulder, and the underarm depth should feel comfortable when you slip it over your head.
Divide for Body and Sleeves
On the next round, you will place the sleeve stitches on hold and join the body for working in the round.
Knit across the back stitches to the first sleeve marker. Place the sleeve stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn. CO 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) underarm stitches using the backward loop method. Knit across the front stitches to the next sleeve marker. Place the second set of sleeve stitches on hold. CO 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) underarm stitches. You will now have only the body stitches on your needle plus the cast-on underarm stitches.
XS: 90 sts / S: 100 sts / M: 112 sts / L: 122 sts / XL: 132 sts / XXL: 144 sts
Body
Work in stockinette (knit every round) until the body measures 13 inches from the underarm, or your desired length minus 1 inch.
Switch to US size 7 needles and work 1 inch (approximately 6 rounds) of 2×2 ribbing. Bind off loosely using a stretchy bind off. The lace bind off or the Italian bind off both work beautifully here.
Sleeves
Return the held sleeve stitches to your US size 8 needles. With right side facing, pick up and knit the underarm cast-on stitches, then work across the sleeve stitches. You will now be working in the round.
XS: 56 sts / S: 60 sts / M: 64 sts / L: 68 sts / XL: 72 sts / XXL: 76 sts
Work in stockinette for 6 rounds.
Sleeve Decrease Round: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. This removes 2 stitches.
Work this decrease round every 8th round until you reach the following stitch counts.
XS: 38 sts / S: 40 sts / M: 44 sts / L: 46 sts / XL: 48 sts / XXL: 50 sts
Continue working even in stockinette until sleeve measures approximately 16 inches from underarm, or desired length minus 1 inch for cuff.
Switch to US size 7 needles and work 1 inch of 2×2 ribbing. Bind off loosely.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Finishing
Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle, being thorough but gentle with the yarn. Pay particular attention to the underarm joins, as these areas can develop small holes if the ends are not secured properly. If you do notice a gap at the underarm, use your tapestry needle to close it neatly by tightening the surrounding stitches.
Block your finished sweater by soaking it in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for about 20 minutes, then gently squeezing out the excess water (never wring), rolling it in a clean towel, and laying it flat to dry in your desired shape. Blocking transforms a finished knit from something that looks hand-made to something that looks professionally crafted. It evens out the stitches, relaxes the fabric, and makes the sweater drape beautifully.
Tips for Customizing This Pattern
One of the best things about a simple, classic sweater pattern is how easy it is to make it your own.
If you want a longer sweater, simply add more rounds to the body before beginning the ribbing. Adding 4 inches to the body is usually enough to take it from a standard length to a tunic-style hem, which looks wonderful over leggings.
For a different neckline, try picking up stitches around the neck and working only 2 rounds of ribbing before binding off for a very minimal crew neck, or skip the neckline ribbing entirely and work a single round of single crochet for a clean, modern finish.
Color blocking is another easy customization. Work the collar and yoke in one color, then switch to a contrasting color for the body and sleeves. Or go bold and work each section in a different shade. Since this pattern uses simple stockinette, any colorwork you add will stand out clearly.
You can also add texture by substituting a seed stitch panel down the center front of the body, or working the sleeves entirely in a 2×2 ribbing for a sporty, fitted look.
Yarn Suggestions
If you are looking for specific yarn recommendations, here are a few that work beautifully at this gauge and have lovely stitch definition for a clean, classic finish.
For a natural fiber option, look for a 100% merino worsted or a merino-nylon blend, which adds durability at high-wear points like the cuffs and underarms. A wool-alpaca blend will give the sweater exceptional softness and warmth, though it tends to have less memory than pure wool, so be sure to swatch carefully.
For a budget-friendly or machine-washable option, an acrylic-wool blend or a superwash merino works very well and is practical for everyday wear. Many high-quality acrylic worsted yarns now have a beautiful hand and excellent stitch definition that rivals their natural counterparts.
If you want something with a bit of visual interest, a yarn with subtle heathering or tweed speckling adds wonderful depth to an otherwise simple stockinette sweater.
A Note on Sizing and Fit
Knitting a sweater that fits well comes down to three things: accurate gauge, understanding ease, and being willing to measure as you go. This pattern is written with a relaxed, comfortable fit in mind, but knitters vary enormously in their proportions. If you have a longer torso, add extra rounds to the body. If your arms are shorter than average, begin the sleeve decreases a little earlier. If you are between sizes at the bust but have a larger hip measurement, you can work a few rounds of short rows at the lower body to add extra length in front, or simply size up and take in the shoulder seam slightly.
Top-down knitting was practically invented for fit adjustments, so lean into that flexibility. Try your sweater on regularly, especially at the yoke stage, and do not be afraid to rip back a few rounds to make a change. The extra time is always worth it when you end up with a sweater that fits you perfectly.
Why Knit Your Own Sweater?
Beyond the obvious appeal of having a completely unique garment, knitting your own sweater gives you control over every variable: the fiber content, the color, the length, the fit. Fast fashion garments are made to fit an idealized average body in a single size run. A hand-knitted sweater is made to fit you, specifically, with whatever modifications your unique shape requires.
There is also the meditative quality of the knitting process itself. Working in the round on a sweater body is a deeply rhythmic, calming activity. Once you have the pattern memorized, you can knit while watching a film, listening to a podcast, or simply sitting quietly. Many knitters find that working on a large project like a sweater gives them a sense of steady progress and accomplishment that smaller projects do not quite provide.
And then there is the heirloom quality of a hand-knitted garment. Made well and in a quality yarn, a hand-knitted sweater can last for decades. It can be mended, re-blocked, and loved for years in a way that machine-made knitwear rarely survives.
If you make this sweater, I would love to see it. Share your finished project and tag it so other knitters can find inspiration from your version. Whether you make it exactly as written or customize it into something entirely your own, the most important thing is that you enjoy the process and end up with a sweater you are proud to wear.
Happy knitting.
