Crochet Checkerboard Sweater Vest – FREE Pattern + Video Tutorial
If you’ve been looking for a project that feels just as satisfying to wear as it is to make, this crochet checkerboard sweater vest might be exactly what you’ve been waiting for. It’s bold, it’s textured, it’s undeniably stylish — and best of all, you can make it for free with this complete pattern and step-by-step video tutorial. Whether you’re new to colorwork or you’ve been crocheting for years, this is the kind of project that stretches your skills in the best possible way.
Let’s dive into everything you need to know: yarn choices, hook sizes, stitch breakdowns, sizing tips, finishing details, and a full written pattern you can follow at your own pace.
Why You’ll Love This Checkerboard Vest Pattern
The checkerboard pattern has had a major fashion moment over the past few seasons, showing up on runways, in boutiques, and all over social media feeds. What makes it so appealing as a crochet project is that it looks far more complicated than it actually is. The graphic, two-color grid creates a sense of visual drama that makes people assume you’ve spent weeks mastering a complicated technique — but the truth is that once you get comfortable switching colors and maintaining tension, the pattern practically works itself.
A sweater vest is also one of the most versatile garments you can add to your handmade wardrobe. You can layer it over a long-sleeve turtleneck for a cozy autumn look, wear it over a crisp white button-down for something more polished, or pair it with a simple fitted t-shirt for a casual everyday outfit. The sleeveless silhouette means it transitions easily across seasons, and the structured nature of this design means it holds its shape beautifully after blocking.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you cast on — or rather, make your foundation chain — gather everything so you can work without interruption. Here’s what you’ll need for this project:
Yarn: Choose two colors of worsted weight yarn (also labeled as #4 medium weight). You’ll need approximately 600–800 yards of your main color (MC) and 400–600 yards of your contrast color (CC), depending on your finished size. For a clean, crisp checkerboard look, go for smooth yarns without too much halo or texture, since those can blur the color boundaries. Cotton blends, acrylic, or wool blends all work beautifully here. Some popular choices for this pattern include Lion Brand Jeans yarn, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), or Caron Simply Soft in classic solids.
Hook: A US size J/6.0mm crochet hook tends to work well with worsted weight yarn for a fabric that’s substantial without being stiff. Always check your gauge before starting the body of the vest.
Additional supplies: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, measuring tape, and rust-proof pins for blocking.
Optional: A blocking mat and blocking wires if you want a very polished, even finish — highly recommended for any garment project.
Gauge and Sizing
Gauge: 14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in the main stitch pattern using a 6.0mm hook.
Take your gauge seriously with this one. Because you’re working a colorwork garment, even small inconsistencies in tension can affect how the finished piece fits and how clean the checkerboard squares look. Work a gauge swatch that’s at least 6 inches square, wash and dry it the same way you plan to care for the finished vest, and measure again before starting.
This pattern is written for the following sizes, with finished bust measurements:
Small: 34–36 inches | Medium: 38–40 inches | Large: 42–44 inches | XL: 46–48 inches | 2XL: 50–52 inches
The vest is designed with approximately 2 inches of positive ease, meaning it should fit comfortably rather than snugly. If you prefer a more oversized look — which is a totally valid and very on-trend choice — size up one or two sizes from your actual measurements.
Stitches and Techniques Used
This pattern uses a combination of basic and intermediate-level techniques. Here’s a quick overview so you know what to expect:
Chain (ch): The foundation of everything.
Single crochet (sc): The backbone of the body panels in the checkerboard sections.
Half double crochet (hdc): Used in the ribbed hem and armhole edging for a stretchy, flattering finish.
Back loop only (BLO): Working into the back loop only creates the ridged texture used in the ribbing.
Color changes: You’ll be switching between your main color and contrast color at the end of stitches, creating clean color transitions. Carry the unused yarn along the back of your work rather than cutting and rejoining at every change — this saves you dozens of ends to weave in and creates a sturdier fabric.
Tapestry crochet technique (optional): If you want extra neat floats on the wrong side of the fabric, look up tapestry crochet as a way to carry your unused yarn. The video tutorial covers both approaches so you can choose what works best for you.
Understanding the Checkerboard Chart
The checkerboard pattern is created by alternating blocks of 6 stitches in MC and 6 stitches in CC, then shifting the color placement by 6 stitches every 6 rows. This creates a perfectly offset grid that reads as a classic checkerboard.
If you’re a visual learner, the video tutorial walks through the chart row by row in real time. If you prefer written instructions, here’s how to think about it:
Rows 1–6: Work 6 stitches in MC, 6 stitches in CC, repeat across the row.
Rows 7–12: Shift so that where you had MC, you now work CC, and vice versa.
Rows 13–18: Return to the original color placement.
Continue in this sequence until your panel reaches the desired length.
The Full Written Pattern
Abbreviations
ch = chain | sc = single crochet | hdc = half double crochet | BLO = back loop only | MC = main color | CC = contrast color | rep = repeat | st(s) = stitch(es) | sl st = slip stitch | RS = right side | WS = wrong side
Bottom Ribbing
Using MC and a 5.5mm hook (one size smaller than your main hook), ch 10.
Row 1: Hdc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (9 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Hdc BLO in each st across.
Repeat Row 2 until your ribbing measures the following length:
S: 34 inches | M: 38 inches | L: 42 inches | XL: 46 inches | 2XL: 50 inches
Fasten off. Set aside.
Front Panel
With your main hook (6.0mm) and MC, ch the following number of stitches:
S: 61 | M: 67 | L: 73 | XL: 79 | 2XL: 85
Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across.
S: 60 sts | M: 66 sts | L: 72 sts | XL: 78 sts | 2XL: 84 sts
These stitch counts are divisible by 12 (6+6), which is what makes the checkerboard math work cleanly.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Work 6 sc in MC, attach CC and work 6 sc in CC. Continue alternating 6 MC and 6 CC across the row. Remember to bring the unused color up along the inside of your work rather than cutting it.
Rows 3–6: Continue in the same color sequence as Row 2.
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Switch the color arrangement so that CC falls where MC was. Work 6 sc in CC, then 6 sc in MC. Repeat across.
Rows 8–12: Continue in the switched color arrangement.
Continue alternating color blocks every 6 rows until the front panel measures:
S/M: 13 inches | L/XL: 14 inches | 2XL: 15 inches
Armhole Shaping:
At the beginning of the next two rows, sl st across the first 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) stitches, then continue in pattern to the last 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) stitches and leave those unworked. (This removes stitches from both sides to create the armhole opening.)
Continue working across the remaining center stitches in your established checkerboard pattern for another 8 (9, 9, 10, 10) inches.
Neckline Shaping:
When your panel has reached the armhole-to-shoulder length listed above, it’s time to shape the neck opening.
Count your remaining stitches and divide them into thirds. Place a stitch marker at the center third. Work across the first third in pattern, fasten off. Reattach yarn at the beginning of the last third, work across in pattern, fasten off. The center third will become the neckhole. Set the front panel aside.
Back Panel
The back panel is worked exactly the same as the front panel through the armhole shaping. However, the back panel does not have a neckline cutout — it simply continues straight up to the shoulders. This gives the vest a high back, which looks polished and prevents it from sliding around when you move.
Continue working straight in your checkerboard pattern until the back panel matches the total length of the front panel (from foundation to top). Fasten off.
Joining the Shoulders
Hold the front and back panels with right sides together. Using MC and a yarn needle, whipstitch across the shoulder sections — the outermost stitches at the top corners of each panel. Make sure to align your color blocks so that the checkerboard pattern flows as continuously as possible across the seam.
Repeat on the other shoulder.
Joining the Side Seams
With right sides together, seam from the bottom hem up to the armhole on each side. You can use the mattress stitch for a nearly invisible seam, or a slip stitch crochet seam if you prefer a more structured edge. Both methods are demonstrated in the video tutorial.
Attaching the Ribbing
Fold the bottom ribbing in half lengthwise and, with RS facing out, attach it to the bottom edge of the vest using a whipstitch or slip stitch seam. The ribbing will add weight and structure to the hem, helping the vest hang beautifully.
Armhole Edging
Join MC at the underarm seam. Work one round of sc evenly around the armhole opening, then work two rows of BLO hdc to create a subtle, stretchy cuff. Join with a sl st and fasten off. Repeat on the other armhole.
Neckline Edging
Join MC at one shoulder seam. Work sc evenly around the entire neckline opening, adjusting your stitch count at the corners as needed to keep the edges flat (typically decreasing at the sharp corners and adding stitches at the curves). Work one additional row if you’d like a chunkier neckband, then fasten off.
Blocking and Finishing
Blocking is the step that transforms a hand-crocheted garment from “homemade” to “handcrafted.” Once all your seams are done and your ends are woven in, wet block your vest by soaking it in cool water for about 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out the excess water (don’t wring it), lay it flat on your blocking mat, and pin it to your desired measurements. Let it dry completely before moving it — usually 24 hours.
You’ll notice the checkerboard squares sharpen up, the seams flatten, and the whole vest takes on a much more intentional, professional silhouette. It’s one of the most satisfying steps in the entire process.
Tips for a Smooth Color Change
The most common frustration in checkerboard colorwork is messy color transitions — little flecks of the wrong color showing on the right side of your fabric. Here are a few ways to keep things clean:
When you switch colors, pull the new color through on the last pull-through of the previous stitch. This ensures the new color shows up crisp and the old color is fully closed off. Keep your tension even when carrying the unused yarn — too tight and it will pucker the fabric, too loose and you’ll get long, snaggable floats on the inside. Practice on a small swatch first if you’re new to colorwork. Most crocheters find their technique improves quickly after just a few rows.
Customization Ideas
One of the joys of working from a free pattern is the freedom to make it entirely your own. Here are some ways to put a personal spin on this design:
If you want more color drama, choose high-contrast colors — think cream and navy, black and terracotta, or mustard and forest green. For something subtler, try tonal pairings like sage and cream or blush and tan.
You can also adjust the size of the checkerboard squares by changing the block size from 6 stitches to 4 (for a tighter, more graphic grid) or 8 (for larger, bolder squares). Just make sure your total stitch count remains divisible by double your new block size.
Adding a button band at the front neckline turns this vest into a V-neck cardigan vest with just a little extra planning. And if you want a longer silhouette, simply work extra rows before beginning the armhole shaping — the pattern scales very naturally.
Video Tutorial
The accompanying video tutorial walks you through the entire pattern from start to finish. You’ll see the color changes demonstrated in real time, the armhole and neckline shaping explained step by step, and the finishing and blocking process shown in full detail. If any part of the written pattern feels unclear, the video is your best friend. A direct link to the tutorial is available at the top of this post and on the pattern’s dedicated page.
Don’t forget to save this post so you can come back to it throughout your project. And if you make your own version, please share a photo in the comments or tag the page on social media — there’s nothing more exciting than seeing this pattern come to life in different colors and sizes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a different yarn weight? Yes, but you’ll need to adjust your hook size and swatch carefully to match your target gauge. DK weight held double works particularly well as a substitute for worsted.
How long does this project take? Most intermediate crocheters complete this vest in about 15–20 hours of working time spread across a week or two. It’s a great weekend project if you have uninterrupted time.
Is this pattern suitable for beginners? If you’re comfortable with basic stitches and have tried at least one simple garment before, you can absolutely tackle this. The colorwork is the most technical part, but the video tutorial makes it very approachable.
Can I sell finished items made from this pattern? Yes! Please credit the pattern source when listing your items for sale, and feel free to share this free pattern link with other makers in your community.
Happy crocheting — and enjoy every stitch of that checkerboard. This vest is going to be one of those pieces you reach for again and again, and you’ll feel a quiet satisfaction every single time you put it on knowing that you made it yourself.
