Crochet Mesh Sweater Vest: 4 Free Patterns for Every Style (Mohair + More)

There is something about a mesh sweater vest that makes an outfit feel effortlessly put-together. It layers over everything — a crisp white button-down, a slouchy turtleneck, a simple tank top — and it adds texture, dimension, and that handmade quality that no fast-fashion piece can replicate. If you have been searching for the perfect crochet mesh sweater vest pattern, you are in exactly the right place. This tutorial covers four distinct patterns, ranging from beginner-friendly to intermediate, and includes a section on working with mohair yarn for that dreamy, hazy finish that has taken over every corner of the internet.

Whether you want a structured vest for the office, a breezy summer layer, an oversized bohemian statement piece, or a delicate mohair cloud for autumn evenings, there is a pattern here for you. Pull up a chair, get your hooks ready, and let’s get into it.

What Is a Mesh Stitch in Crochet?

Before we dive into the patterns themselves, it helps to understand what makes a stitch “mesh.” In crochet, a mesh stitch creates an open, net-like fabric by alternating stitches with chain spaces. The result is a lightweight, breathable fabric that drapes beautifully, uses less yarn than denser stitches, and works up relatively quickly once you find your rhythm.

The basic mesh stitch is typically made by combining single crochets, double crochets, or treble crochets with chain-2 or chain-3 spaces. The pattern repeats across each row, creating a grid of holes. This is why mesh vests are especially popular for warmer months — they allow airflow while still adding a layer of visual interest. But as you will see in Pattern 4, mesh worked in mohair transforms into something entirely different: warm, romantic, and soft as a cloud.

What You Need Before You Start

Across all four patterns, here are the general materials and tools you should have on hand. Each pattern section will specify yarn weight and hook size individually.

You will need a set of crochet hooks ranging from 4.0mm to 8.0mm, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, and a measuring tape. A blocking mat and rustproof pins are strongly recommended — mesh fabric benefits enormously from blocking, which opens up the stitch pattern and evens out the fabric in ways that can feel almost miraculous.

For sizing, each pattern below is written for sizes XS through 3XL. The key measurements you need before casting on are your bust circumference, your desired length from shoulder to hem, and your armhole depth. Always swatch before you begin, because gauge genuinely matters when you are shaping a garment.

Pattern 1: The Classic Open Mesh Vest (Beginner-Friendly)

This is the pattern you want if you are new to garment making or new to mesh stitches. It is worked flat in two panels — a front and a back — then seamed at the shoulders and sides. The stitch pattern is simple enough that you can watch television while you work, but the finished piece looks elegant and intentional.

Materials: Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn (approximately 400–600 yards depending on size), 5.0mm crochet hook, tapestry needle, stitch markers.

Gauge: 14 stitches and 8 rows = 4 inches in mesh stitch pattern. Adjust hook size as needed.

Stitch Key:
Ch = chain, sc = single crochet, dc = double crochet, sp = space, sk = skip, st = stitch, rep = repeat, RS = right side, WS = wrong side.

The Stitch Pattern (mesh): Chain a multiple of 4 plus 2. Row 1 (RS): sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sk 2 chs, sc in next ch, rep from to across. Ch 4, turn. Row 2: dc in first sc, ch 1, dc in next sc, rep across, ending with dc in last sc. Ch 1, turn. Row 3: sc in first dc, ch 2, sk ch-1 sp and dc, sc in next dc, rep across. Ch 4, turn. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for pattern.

Instructions: Start with the back panel. Chain 58 (62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) for sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL. Work in mesh pattern until piece measures 13 (13.5, 14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 15) inches from the foundation chain. This is your hem-to-underarm length.

Shape the armholes by slip stitching across the first 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14) stitches, then continuing in pattern to the last 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14) stitches, leaving those unworked. Decrease one stitch at each armhole edge every row 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5) times. Continue even until the armhole measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11) inches. Fasten off.

Work the front panel identically until the armhole shaping is complete, then continue for 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4, 4) additional inches before shaping the V-neck or round neck of your choice. For a V-neck, find the center stitch, join a second ball of yarn, and work each side separately, decreasing one stitch at the neck edge every 2 rows until shoulder width measures 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) stitches wide. Fasten off.

Seam the shoulders and sides. For the armhole edging, join yarn at the underarm seam and work a round of sc around the entire armhole, then slip stitch to join and fasten off. Repeat for the neckline. Weave in all ends and block thoroughly.

Pattern 2: The Oversized Bohemian Mesh Vest (Intermediate)

This vest is worked in the round from the bottom up, which eliminates side seams and creates a fluid, draped silhouette. The stitch pattern is a slightly larger mesh using treble crochets, which gives the fabric more movement and a longer repeat that looks like an intricate lace grid. This one is ideal in a linen, bamboo, or lightweight cotton yarn.

Materials: DK or light worsted linen or bamboo yarn (approximately 600–900 yards), 5.5mm crochet hook, stitch markers for underarms, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 12 stitches and 6 rows = 4 inches in treble mesh pattern. Swatch is essential here.

Stitch Pattern (treble mesh): Chain a multiple of 6 plus 4. Row/Round 1: tr in 4th ch from hook, ch 3, sk 3 chs, tr in next ch, ch 1, tr in same ch, rep from to last 4 sts, ch 3, sk 3, tr in last ch. Row/Round 2: ch 4, turn (or ch 4 if working in the round), tr in ch-3 sp, ch 3*, rep around, join if working in round.

Instructions: Chain 120 (128, 136, 144, 152, 160, 168) and join with a slip stitch to form a ring, being careful not to twist. Work the treble mesh pattern in continuous rounds until the body measures 14 (14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 16) inches from the foundation.

Divide for front and back: At the next round, work across 60 (64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84) stitches for the back, placing stitch markers at each end of the back section to mark underarms. Work the back flat, decreasing one treble at each armhole edge every row 3 times. Continue even until the armhole measures 9 (9.5, 10, 10, 10.5, 10.5, 11) inches. Shape the back neck by working to the center 20 stitches, joining a second ball of yarn, and working each shoulder separately for 4 rows. Fasten off.

Return to the front stitches and work the same armhole shaping. After 3 (3.5, 4, 4, 4.5, 4.5, 5) inches from underarm, shape the wide square neckline by leaving the center 30 (30, 32, 32, 34, 34, 36) stitches unworked and completing each shoulder separately. This wide neckline is what gives the oversized bohemian vest its relaxed, shoulder-baring quality.

Join shoulders. Work one round of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) around the neckline and armholes for a clean, professional finish that does not require a separate band. Block aggressively, pinning the mesh open to its full width.

Pattern 3: The Structured Ribbed-Hem Mesh Vest (Intermediate)

This pattern has more architectural intention. The hem, armhole bands, and neckband are worked in a 2×2 rib (worked as rows of sc in back loops only to mimic knit ribbing), while the body is open mesh. The ribbing grounds the vest and makes it feel more refined — perfect for wearing to work or pairing with trousers.

Materials: Worsted weight cotton or merino blend (approximately 500–750 yards), 5.0mm hook for mesh body, 4.0mm hook for ribbing sections, tapestry needle, stitch markers.

Gauge: Same as Pattern 1 for the body. Ribbing gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in sc-blo ribbing on 4.0mm hook.

Instructions: Begin with the ribbing. Using the smaller hook, chain 10. Work sc in the back loop only across all 10 stitches. Chain 1, turn. Continue until the ribbing strip is as long as the bottom edge of your vest (approximately 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66 stitches worth of width). Fasten off.

Now rotate the ribbing 90 degrees and pick up stitches along the long edge to begin the body. Using your larger hook, work the mesh stitch pattern from Pattern 1 upward. This seamless transition from ribbing to mesh is what makes this vest look polished rather than homemade.

Continue in mesh until the piece measures the desired length to underarm, then divide and work front and back panels separately as described in Pattern 1. After seaming the shoulders, pick up stitches around each armhole and work a strip of ribbing, joining as you go to create a neat armhole band approximately 1.5 inches wide. Work the neckline ribbing the same way. Block lightly, pressing the ribbing flat while allowing the mesh body to open up naturally.

Pattern 4: The Mohair Haze Mesh Vest (Intermediate)

This is the pattern that will make people stop you in the street to ask where you got your vest. Mohair yarn — particularly a lace-weight mohair-silk blend — creates a soft halo around every stitch, making the mesh fabric look like it is slightly out of focus. The effect is romantic and ethereal, and it works brilliantly in dusty rose, sage green, lavender, ivory, or deep charcoal.

A Note on Working with Mohair: Mohair can feel intimidating because it is difficult to frog (unravel) once worked. It sticks to itself. This means you must work slowly and carefully, checking your stitch count frequently. Use a hook that is larger than you might expect — mohair needs room to breathe. Many experienced crocheters swatch mohair extensively before committing to a garment.

If you are new to mohair, consider holding a strand of lace-weight mohair-silk alongside a strand of fingering weight cotton or wool. This gives the piece structure while still producing that signature hazy softness. It also makes the stitches slightly more visible as you work, which helps enormously with stitch counting.

Materials: 2–3 balls of lace-weight mohair-silk yarn (approximately 800–1,200 yards total, depending on size), 6.0mm or 6.5mm crochet hook (yes, this is large for the yarn weight — that is intentional), tapestry needle, stitch markers.

Gauge: 12 stitches and 7 rows = 4 inches in mohair mesh on 6.5mm hook. The large hook and lace-weight yarn create an airy, lightweight fabric that is deceptively warm due to the mohair fibers.

Stitch Pattern (mohair mesh): Chain a multiple of 4. Row 1: dc in 6th ch from hook, ch 2, sk 2, dc in next ch, rep across. Ch 4, turn. Row 2: dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp, rep across, ending with dc in turning ch sp. Ch 4, turn. Rep Row 2 for all subsequent rows.

This is a simpler mesh pattern than the earlier ones, chosen deliberately because the mohair halo does the decorative work. An overly complex stitch would be lost under the fiber’s softness.

Instructions: Chain 58 (62, 66, 70, 78, 82, 90) for sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL. Work in mohair mesh pattern until piece measures 12 (12.5, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15) inches. Place markers to divide for front and back (29, 31, 33, 35, 39, 41, 45 stitches each side).

The mohair vest is worked in two flat panels. For the armhole shaping, decrease gently — only 1 stitch every other row for 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5) rows. The mohair drapes rather than holds a sharp shape, so minimal shaping actually produces a more flattering result. The fabric will settle against the body and create its own gentle contours.

For the neckline, this pattern works beautifully with a wide, relaxed crewneck or a deep U-neck. For the U-neck, work to the center 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16) stitches, leave them unworked, and work each shoulder separately for the remaining length. For the crewneck, leave the center 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22) stitches and shape more gradually.

Seam the shoulders using a whipstitch worked through both loops, keeping tension very light so the seam does not pucker the delicate mohair fabric. For the armhole edging, work a single round of slip stitch using a smaller hook (5.0mm) — anything more will overwhelm the fabric. For the neckline, do the same. You want the edging to be nearly invisible, just enough to stabilize the edge.

Blocking mohair is different from blocking cotton. Do not stretch it aggressively. Instead, wet block by soaking the vest in cool water, pressing out the excess moisture in a towel (never wring), and laying flat to dry. As the mohair dries, use your fingers to gently coax the halo outward and fluff the fibers. The transformation as it dries is genuinely satisfying — it blooms.

Tips for Sizing and Fit Across All Four Patterns

Crochet garments are notorious for ease confusion. When we talk about wearing ease, we mean the extra width built into the pattern beyond your actual body measurements, so the garment does not cling or restrict movement. These mesh vest patterns are designed with 2 to 4 inches of positive ease, meaning you should choose your size based on your actual bust measurement and the pattern will naturally be slightly larger.

If you are between sizes, go up a size for a relaxed fit or stay at the smaller size for something closer to the body. Mesh fabric is forgiving but does not have the same stretch as a knit fabric, so erring toward more ease is usually the right call.

Swatching is the single most important thing you can do before starting any of these patterns. Wash and dry your swatch the same way you plan to care for the finished garment