V-Neck Sleeveless Cabled Crochet Tank Top: A Free Sweater Vest Pattern
There’s something undeniably satisfying about a crochet piece that looks like it took expert-level skill but was actually built from a handful of repeatable techniques. This V-neck sleeveless cabled crochet tank top is exactly that kind of project. It has the texture and structure of a classic cable-knit sweater, the breezy wearability of a tank, and the kind of fitted silhouette that layers beautifully over long-sleeve shirts, turtlenecks, or even a simple blouse. Whether you’re new to crochet cables or you’ve been working them for years, this free crochet sweater vest pattern will walk you through every step from yarn selection to final seaming.
Let’s dive in.
Why You’ll Love This Crochet Sweater Vest Pattern
The sweater vest has had a serious fashion comeback, and for good reason. It’s a layering piece that adds visual interest without bulk, works across seasons, and transitions effortlessly from casual to polished. When you make one yourself, you get the added bonus of customizing the fit, the color, and the yarn weight to suit your body and your wardrobe.
This particular crochet tank top pattern uses front post and back post double crochet stitches to create raised cable columns that run vertically along the front and back panels. The V-neck shaping adds a flattering neckline that elongates the torso, and the sleeveless construction keeps things cool enough to wear layered over a fitted long-sleeve for fall, or on its own during warmer months.
The pattern is written for a women’s size medium with notes for adjusting sizing throughout. Even if you’ve never attempted a crochet cable before, the step-by-step instructions here will make the technique approachable and even addictive.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you cast on (or, well, make your foundation chain), gather everything you’ll need so your project flows without interruption.
Yarn: Approximately 800–1,000 yards of a worsted weight yarn. A smooth, lightly twisted yarn in a natural fiber blend works best here because it shows cable definition most clearly. A merino wool, cotton-merino blend, or a high-quality acrylic like Paintbox Simply DK held double will all work beautifully. For this pattern, a neutral like oatmeal, cream, dusty sage, or camel will make the cable texture pop visually.
Hook: US size J/6.0mm crochet hook (or whatever size achieves your gauge)
Notions:
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends and seaming
- Stitch markers (at least 6–8)
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Row counter (optional but helpful)
Gauge: 14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches in the main cable pattern. Always, always swatch. A sweater is too much time and yarn to skip a gauge swatch, and a few minutes of swatching can save you from finishing a vest that doesn’t fit.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
Here’s a quick reference for every stitch used in this crochet tank top pattern. If you’re new to post stitches, don’t skip this section — it’s the key to everything.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
FPdc — front post double crochet: insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, complete as a standard double crochet. This stitch creates a raised ridge on the right side of the work.
BPdc — back post double crochet: insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, complete as a standard double crochet. This stitch creates a recessed channel on the right side.
FPdc cable (right-leaning): Skip 2 stitches, FPdc into the 3rd stitch, then FPdc into the 1st and 2nd skipped stitches, working in front of the first FPdc. This crosses 3 stitches over 3 to create a braided cable appearance.
FPdc cable (left-leaning): Skip 2 stitches, FPdc into the 3rd stitch, then FPdc into the 1st and 2nd skipped stitches, working behind the first FPdc.
t-ch — turning chain
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
Sizing Information
This pattern is written for a finished chest measurement of 36 inches (size medium). To adjust, follow the guidelines below.
The finished measurements for each size are as follows. For an extra-small, the finished chest is 32 inches and you’ll begin with a foundation chain of 56 stitches. For a small, the finished chest is 34 inches and you’ll start with 60 stitches. For a medium (the written pattern), the finished chest is 36 inches with a 64-stitch foundation chain. For a large, work to a 40-inch finished chest starting with 70 stitches. For an extra-large, the chest is 44 inches and the starting chain is 76 stitches.
Wherever the pattern specifies a stitch count or row count, the adjustment notes in parentheses will walk you through the modifications. The cable repeat is a multiple of 8 stitches plus 2 edge stitches, so keep that in mind if you’re calculating your own custom size.
Understanding Crochet Cables
If you’ve never worked a crochet cable before, here’s the simplest way to think about it: you’re just changing the order in which you work into stitches. By skipping ahead and then going back to fill in the stitches you passed, you create a twist. That twist, repeated over several rows, builds up into the braided, rope-like cable texture you associate with fisherman-style knitwear.
The front post double crochet is what gives cables their dimensionality. Because you’re working around the post (the vertical bar of a stitch) rather than into the top of a stitch, the new stitch sits up off the fabric surface. When you cross these raised stitches over each other, they pop forward even more dramatically, creating beautiful shadow and depth.
Cable rows in this pattern are worked every 4th row. The rows in between are worked in a combination of FPdc and BPdc that maintains the ribbed texture without the crossing, letting you rest and find your rhythm before the next cable row.
Pattern Instructions: Front Panel
Foundation: Chain 66 (this includes 2 turning chain stitches, so your working stitch count is 64).
Row 1 (WS): Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook and in each chain across — 64 dc total. Turn.
Row 2 (RS — Set-Up Row): Ch 2, BPdc across the first 4 stitches, FPdc across the next 6 stitches, BPdc across the next 2 stitches — repeat from to across until 4 stitches remain, BPdc across the final 4 stitches. Turn.
Rows 3 and 5 (WS — Rest Rows): Ch 2, work FPdc over each BPdc and BPdc over each FPdc as the stitches present themselves (this maintains the rib without crossing). Turn.
Row 4 (RS — Cable Row): Ch 2, BPdc across the first 4 stitches, work a right-leaning FPdc cable across the next 6 stitches, BPdc across the next 2 stitches — repeat from to across until 4 stitches remain, BPdc across the final 4. Turn.
Row 6 (RS — Cable Row): Ch 2, BPdc across the first 4 stitches, work a left-leaning FPdc cable across the next 6 stitches, BPdc across the next 2 stitches — repeat from to across until 4 stitches remain, BPdc across the final 4. Turn.
Continue alternating right-leaning and left-leaning cable rows every 4 rows, with 2 rest rows in between, until the front panel measures 13 inches from the foundation edge.
Armhole Shaping
At this point, you’ll begin shaping the armholes. These are worked by decreasing at both ends of the row over the following 6 rows.
Decrease Rows: At the start of the next 6 rows, slip stitch across the first 4 stitches and work your turning chain before beginning the cable pattern. At the end of each of these same rows, stop working 4 stitches before the end and turn without completing those final stitches. After 6 decrease rows, you will have removed 24 stitches total (12 from each side) and your working stitch count will be reduced to 40 stitches for the medium size.
Continue working the cable pattern across the reduced stitch count with no further decreasing until the armhole depth measures 8 inches from the first decrease row.
V-Neck Shaping
The V-neck is worked by dividing the front panel in half and shaping each side separately. This is what gives the neckline its angled, flattering shape.
Right Side of V-Neck: At the beginning of the next RS row, work across the first 20 stitches only. Turn and leave the remaining 20 stitches unworked. Place a stitch marker at the center to keep your place.
Decrease 1 stitch at the neckline edge (the center edge) every RS row 8 times total. To decrease, work your last 2 stitches together as an FPdc2tog or simply work a standard dc2tog over the final 2 stitches of that edge.
After 8 neckline decreases, you’ll have 12 shoulder stitches remaining. Continue working even (no more decreasing) until the shoulder section measures 1 inch from the last decrease. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Left Side of V-Neck: Rejoin yarn at the center with the RS facing. Work across the remaining 20 stitches, decreasing at the neckline edge every RS row 8 times in the same manner. After 8 decreases, work even for 1 inch across the remaining 12 shoulder stitches. Fasten off.
Pattern Instructions: Back Panel
The back panel is worked identically to the front panel through the armhole shaping. Work the foundation chain, establish the cable pattern exactly as written for the front, and work the armhole decreases in the same way.
The back does not have a V-neck. Instead, work a straight neckline as follows.
Once the armhole depth reaches 8.5 inches (half an inch taller than the front), you’ll begin the back neck shaping. On the next RS row, work across the first 12 stitches, then slip stitch across the next 16 center stitches, rejoin yarn at the remaining 12 stitches and fasten off. This creates the back neckline opening. Work 1 row even across each shoulder section, then fasten off.
Seaming the Vest
Block both panels before seaming. Even if you’re using acrylic, a light wet block or steam block will help the cables open up and look their best, and it makes seaming much easier.
Align the front and back panels with right sides facing each other. Using a tapestry needle and a length of matching yarn, seam the shoulder sections together using a whip stitch or mattress stitch. Mattress stitch gives the most invisible seam, but either will work beautifully.
Next, seam the side seams from the bottom hem up to the beginning of the armhole shaping. Leave the armhole sections open — these become your armhole edges.
Finishing: Neck and Armhole Edging
A clean edge makes the difference between a handmade-looking piece and a truly polished one. For this crochet sweater vest, you’ll work a simple single crochet edging around both armholes and the V-neckline.
Armhole Edging: With the RS facing, join yarn at the underarm seam. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire armhole opening, placing stitches approximately every row end and in each stitch at the top of the armhole. When you reach the starting point, join with a slip stitch. Work 1 more round of reverse sc (also called crab stitch, worked by moving left instead of right) for a neat, corded finish. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the second armhole.
V-Neck Edging: Join yarn at the right shoulder seam. Work sc evenly down the right side of the V, place 3 sc at the V-point (the bottom center of the neckline), and work sc up the left side of the V back to the left shoulder seam, then continue across the back neckline to the right shoulder. At the V-point on the second round, work sc2tog across the 3 center stitches to maintain the sharp angle of the V. Work 2 rounds total and fasten off.
Customizing Your Crochet Tank Top
One of the best things about making your own crochet sweater vest pattern is the endless room for customization. Here are a few ideas to make this piece entirely your own.
Yarn color: A single solid or heathered tone will show off the cables most dramatically, but a subtle ombre or a tonal yarn adds an unexpected dimension without distracting from the texture.
Length: Add or subtract rows before the armhole shaping to adjust the finished length. A cropped version that hits at the waist has a completely different energy than a longline version that falls to the hip. Add rows in multiples of 4 to keep the cable pattern aligned.
Neckline depth: Work more or fewer V-neck decrease rows to adjust how deep the neckline falls. More decreases give a deeper, more dramatic V; fewer create a more modest scoop-like opening.
Cable width: If you want wider, more prominent cable columns, adjust your cable repeat to cross 8 stitches instead of 6. This requires recalculating your foundation chain in multiples of 10 instead of 8, but the visual effect is bold and architectural.
Buttons or closure: For a different take on the vest silhouette entirely, work the front and back panels separately all the way to the shoulder without seaming, and add button loops along one shoulder seam and a row of small buttons along the other. This creates an open-shoulder cardigan vest that feels a little more editorial.
Styling Your Crochet Sweater Vest
Once your vest is finished and blocked, the styling possibilities are genuinely fun to explore. This kind of cabled, structured piece works as a mid-layer in almost any wardrobe.
For a classic, cozy fall look, wear it over a slim-fit turtleneck in a contrasting or complementary color. The V-neckline frames the turtleneck and the cables catch the light beautifully. Pair with straight-leg jeans and ankle boots and you have something that looks like it came from an independent boutique.
For a more relaxed, everyday feel, layer the vest over a simple long-sleeve t-shirt or striped cotton top. White or cream cables over a navy stripe is a combination that never, ever gets old. Add white sneakers and wide-leg trousers and you’re done.
For warmer weather or a vacation-ready outfit, this tank top works surprisingly well on its own, tucked into a high-waisted linen skirt or worn over a fitted swimsuit as a cover-up with serious style.
The vest also works beautifully as a transitional layer in a smart-casual work environment. Over a crisp button-up with the collar peeking out, it reads as polished and intentional. Add tailored trousers and loafers and it’s genuinely office-appropriate.
Tips for Getting Great Results
A few notes from experience that will make this project smoother from start to finish.
Swatch seriously. It bears repeating because it matters this much. Cable patterns pull in slightly, which affects both stitch gauge and row gauge. Work your swatch in the cable pattern itself, not just in plain double crochet.
Count your stitches after every cable row. Cables are the most common place to accidentally add or drop a stitch, and catching it early saves significant frogging later.
Use stitch markers liberally. Mark the beginning of each cable repeat across your foundation row so you always know where each cable should fall.
Don’t skip blocking.
