Crochet Sweater Vest Pattern XS–5XL for Fall Layering

There is something deeply satisfying about making your own wardrobe staples, and a crochet sweater vest is one of those pieces that rewards you on every level. It works up faster than a full pullover, it layers beautifully over long-sleeve shirts and blouses, and when you make it yourself, you get to choose the yarn, the color, and — most importantly — the size that actually fits your body. This pattern is written for sizes XS through 5XL with full stitch counts for every size, so whether you are petite or plus-size, you will find a number that works for you. Pull out your favorite chunky yarn and your trusty crochet hook, because this is the fall project you have been looking for.

Why a Sweater Vest Is the Perfect Fall Crochet Project

Fall layering is an art. You want warmth without bulk, style without stiffness, and versatility without spending a fortune. A crocheted sweater vest checks every one of those boxes. Unlike a full sweater, a vest keeps your core warm while your arms stay free, which means you can wear it over a simple tee on a crisp September afternoon or layer it over a turtleneck when October really sets in.

From a crocheter’s perspective, vests are also wonderfully forgiving projects. You are not shaping sleeves, you are not picking up stitches around armholes and knitting in the round — you are simply working two flat panels (a front and a back) and seaming them together with short shoulder and side seams. The construction is beginner-friendly enough that newer crocheters can tackle it with confidence, but the texture and sizing options make it interesting enough to hold an experienced crocheter’s attention.

This particular pattern uses a simple half double crochet ribbing for the hems and a textured herringbone half double crochet stitch for the body panels. The herringbone hdc creates a dense, slightly stretchy fabric with a beautiful diagonal texture that looks impressive but works up quickly once your hands learn the rhythm. The finished vest has a relaxed, slightly oversized fit, a deep V-neck, and ribbed hems at the waist, armholes, and neckline that give it a polished, ready-to-wear look.

Materials and Tools

Before you cast on — or, more precisely, before you chain up — gather everything you need so your project flows smoothly from start to finish.

Yarn: You will want a medium-weight (category 4) or bulky-weight (category 5) yarn in a fiber that has some body to it. Pure wool or a wool blend works beautifully for fall because it regulates temperature and has natural elasticity. If you prefer something washable, look for a superwash merino or an acrylic-wool blend. For a full vest in size medium, plan on approximately 700–800 yards of category 4 yarn or 500–600 yards of category 5 yarn. Adjust yardage accordingly for larger sizes, and always buy an extra skein to account for swatching and any modifications you make.

Hook: For category 4 yarn, a 5.0 mm (H/8) hook is a good starting point. For category 5 yarn, try a 6.0 mm (J/10) hook. Always swatch and adjust — the goal is a fabric that drapes gently rather than one that is stiff or too loose.

Notions: You will need a yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends, a measuring tape, stitch markers (at least four), and scissors. Optional but helpful: blocking mats and pins if you want to block your finished panels before seaming.

Gauge

Gauge matters more for garments than for almost any other crochet project, so please do not skip this step.

In herringbone half double crochet: 14 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) using category 4 yarn and a 5.0 mm hook.

Make a swatch at least 6 inches wide and 6 inches tall, wash it the same way you plan to wash your finished vest, let it dry flat, and then measure. If your swatch is too small (your stitches are too tight), go up a hook size. If it is too large (your stitches are too loose), go down a hook size. Getting gauge right is the difference between a vest that fits and a vest that sits in a drawer.

Size Chart and Finished Measurements

This pattern is written for a garment with approximately 2–4 inches of positive ease, meaning it will be slightly larger than your actual chest measurement. This gives the vest that relaxed, modern fit that looks so good layered over long sleeves.

XS: Fits 30–32 inch bust. Finished chest: 34 inches. Length: 22 inches.
S: Fits 33–35 inch bust. Finished chest: 37 inches. Length: 23 inches.
M: Fits 36–38 inch bust. Finished chest: 40 inches. Length: 24 inches.
L: Fits 39–41 inch bust. Finished chest: 43 inches. Length: 25 inches.
XL: Fits 42–44 inch bust. Finished chest: 46 inches. Length: 26 inches.
2XL: Fits 45–48 inch bust. Finished chest: 50 inches. Length: 27 inches.
3XL: Fits 49–52 inch bust. Finished chest: 54 inches. Length: 28 inches.
4XL: Fits 53–56 inch bust. Finished chest: 58 inches. Length: 29 inches.
5XL: Fits 57–60 inch bust. Finished chest: 62 inches. Length: 30 inches.

To find your size, measure your full bust at the widest point and choose the size closest to your measurement, keeping in mind the finished garment measurements listed above. If you are between sizes or carry weight differently in your upper versus lower torso, consider sizing up for a more comfortable fit.

Stitch Glossary

Ch: Chain
Sl st: Slip stitch
Sc: Single crochet
Hdc: Half double crochet
Hbhdc (Herringbone Half Double Crochet): Insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, then before completing the stitch, pull that loop through the first loop on the hook (as if completing a chain), then yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops on the hook. This creates a tighter, more angled stitch than a standard hdc and produces a beautiful herringbone texture across the fabric.
BLO: Back loop only
Ch-sp: Chain space
RS: Right side
WS: Wrong side

Pattern Notes

This vest is worked in two flat pieces: a front panel and a back panel. Both panels begin with a ribbed hem worked horizontally (lengthwise), then you pivot and work the body vertically upward from the top edge of the ribbing. The front panel is worked in two halves to create the V-neck shaping, and then the two halves are joined at the top before you add a simple ribbed edging around the neckline and armholes.

Stitch counts throughout the pattern are given in the order XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Back Panel

Ribbing:
Chain 11 (11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15).

Row 1: Sc in the second chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn.
You will have 10 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14) stitches.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc BLO across. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until the ribbing measures 17 (18.5, 20, 21.5, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31) inches. At the end of the last row, do not fasten off. Rotate your work 90 degrees to work along the long edge of the ribbing.

Body:
Row 1 (RS): Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), work 60 (66, 72, 76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 108) hbhdc evenly across the long edge of the ribbing. Turn.

Note: To work evenly across the ribbing, aim for approximately one stitch per row end. If you have slightly more or fewer row ends than the stitch count requires, adjust by working two stitches into some row ends or skipping occasional row ends to reach the target number.

Row 2: Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn.

Continue working even in hbhdc until the body measures 12 (12.5, 13, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 15, 15.5, 16) inches from the top of the ribbing, ending with a WS row.

Armhole Shaping:
Row 1: Sl st across the first 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) stitches, ch 2, hbhdc across until 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) stitches remain, turn leaving remaining stitches unworked.
You will have 50 (56, 60, 64, 68, 74, 78, 84, 90) stitches.

Row 2: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc across until 2 stitches remain, hbhdc2tog. Turn.
You will have 48 (54, 58, 62, 66, 72, 76, 82, 88) stitches.

Row 3: Repeat Row 2.
You will have 46 (52, 56, 60, 64, 70, 74, 80, 86) stitches.

Sizes M through 5XL only: Repeat Row 2 once more.
You will have — (—, 54, 58, 62, 68, 72, 78, 84) stitches.

Work even in hbhdc on remaining stitches until the armhole measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12) inches from the beginning of the armhole shaping.

Shoulder Shaping:
Sl st across the first 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19) stitches. Fasten off. Skip the center 26 (30, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 44, 46) stitches. Rejoin yarn in the next stitch and sl st across the remaining 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19) stitches. Fasten off.

Front Panel

Ribbing: Work exactly as for the back panel ribbing.

Body (Right Front Half):
Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, work 30 (33, 36, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 54) hbhdc evenly across the long edge of the ribbing. Turn.

Work even in hbhdc until the body measures 12 (12.5, 13, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 15, 15.5, 16) inches from the top of the ribbing, ending with a WS row.

Armhole and V-Neck Shaping (Right Front Half):
Row 1: Sl st across the first 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) stitches, ch 2, hbhdc to end. Turn.
You will have 25 (28, 30, 32, 34, 37, 39, 42, 45) stitches.

Row 2 (armhole and neck decrease): Ch 2, hbhdc2tog at the beginning of the row (armhole edge), hbhdc until 2 stitches remain, hbhdc2tog (neck edge). Turn.

Row 3 (armhole decrease only): Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc to end. Turn.

Sizes M–5XL: Repeat Row 2 once more.

After armhole shaping is complete, continue with neck decreases only: on every RS row, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge (the center-front edge) until 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19) stitches remain for the shoulder.

Work even until the front matches the back in armhole depth. Fasten off.

Left Front Half: Work as a mirror image of the right front half, reversing all shaping (armhole shaping at the end of the row instead of the beginning, and neck decreases at the beginning of the row).

Assembly

Lay both panels on a flat surface with the wrong sides facing up. If you are blocking your pieces, now is the time to do so. Pin each panel to your measurements, mist lightly with water, and allow to dry completely before seaming. Blocking evens out the stitches and makes seaming much easier.

With the right sides together, seam the shoulder seams using a whip stitch or mattress stitch, matching stitch for stitch. Then seam the side seams from the bottom ribbing up to the armhole, leaving the armhole open. Turn the vest right side out and try it on to check the fit before adding the finishing edgings.

Finishing Edgings

Armhole Edging:
Join yarn at the bottom of one armhole. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the armhole opening, placing approximately 1 sc per stitch along the bound-off edges and 1 sc per 2 rows along the row-end edges. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Then work 4 rounds of BLO hdc ribbing as follows: ch 1, hdc BLO around, join with sl st. Fasten off and weave in end. Repeat for the second armhole.

Neckline Edging:
Join yarn at the center back neck. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire neckline, including down both sides of the V and across the bottom of the V, placing a decrease at the very bottom point of the V to keep it sharp and clean. Then work 3 rounds of BLO hdc ribbing, maintaining the decrease at the V point on each round. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Hem Edging (Optional): If you prefer a neater bottom edge, work 1–2 rounds of sc around the hem, joining at one side seam.

Customization Ideas

One of the joys of making your own garments is that you are never locked into the pattern as written. Here are a few ways to make this vest entirely your own.

The pocket option is one of the most popular additions. Simply make two small rectangles in hdc (approximately 5 inches wide and 6 inches tall), work a single row of ribbing along the top edge, and seam them to the front panels at hip level before joining the side seams. Patch pockets add a casual, utilitarian charm that looks especially good in earthy fall tones.

For a cropped version, reduce the body length by 2–3 inches and shorten the ribbing to match. A cropped vest hits at or just above the waist and looks incredible over high-waisted trousers or a flowing midi skirt. For an oversized, longline vest, add 4–6 inches to the body length and use the same number of stitches — the extra length will drape beautifully.

You can also play with color. Work the ribbing in a contrasting color, alternate two colors in the body using wide horizontal stripes, or work a colorblock design by switching colors at the halfway point of the body. The herringbone stitch looks particularly stunning in two alternating earth tones like terracotta and cream or olive and rust.

Yarn Suggestions for Fall

The right yarn makes all the difference in how a finished vest feels and looks. For a classic, warm fall vest, look for something with a matte finish and a soft hand —