Easy Crochet Vest Pattern: DIY Boho Striped Side-Tie Waistcoat Tutorial
There is something deeply satisfying about wearing something you made with your own hands. A crochet vest hits that sweet spot between wearable and achievable — it requires no shaping for sleeves, it works up faster than a full sweater, and the finished piece looks like something you pulled off a boutique rack in a coastal town. This boho striped side-tie waistcoat is exactly that kind of project. It is relaxed, breezy, and endlessly customizable, whether you want muted earth tones, bold color-blocked stripes, or a neutral single-color version that goes with everything in your wardrobe.
This tutorial walks you through every step of the process, from choosing your yarn to tying that final side bow. Even if you have only made scarves and dishcloths before, you can absolutely complete this vest. If you already have a few garments under your belt, you will fly through it and probably want to make three.
What Makes This Vest Pattern Special
Before diving into the materials and stitches, it helps to understand the design logic behind this particular pattern. The waistcoat is worked in two rectangular panels — a front and a back — that are seamed at the shoulders and partially down the sides. The remaining side opening is finished with ties, which create that signature boho silhouette and also make the fit highly adjustable. One size can realistically fit a range of bodies because you control how tightly or loosely you tie the sides.
The stripe pattern is intentionally simple. You are not managing complicated intarsia or reading a color chart. You simply change colors at the end of certain rows, carry the unused yarn up the side, and keep going. The result looks far more intricate than the technique actually is, which is the hallmark of a great beginner-friendly garment pattern.
Materials You Will Need
Getting your materials sorted before you sit down to crochet makes the whole experience smoother. Here is what you need for this project.
Yarn: Choose a DK or light worsted weight yarn in two to four colors. For a classic boho look, try warm terracotta paired with cream, or a dusty sage alongside a soft oatmeal. You will need approximately 400 to 500 yards of your main color and 150 to 200 yards of each contrast color. Cotton or a cotton-linen blend works beautifully for warm weather, while a merino blend adds drape and warmth for layering over flannels in autumn.
Hook: A 5mm or 5.5mm crochet hook is ideal for most DK and light worsted yarns. Check your yarn’s label for its recommended hook size and adjust as needed to hit your gauge.
Notions: You will need a yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming, scissors, stitch markers, and a measuring tape. A few safety pins or locking stitch markers are helpful for holding seams in place before you sew them.
Optional: A row counter or a simple tally on a piece of paper helps you keep track of your stripe sequence without losing your place.
Gauge
Gauge matters in garment projects, and it is worth taking twenty minutes to swatch before you begin. For this pattern, you are aiming for approximately 14 stitches and 16 rows per four inches in half double crochet using a 5mm hook. If your swatch comes out larger, go down a hook size. If it comes out smaller, go up a hook size.
Do not skip the gauge swatch. A difference of even half a stitch per inch can change your finished vest by several inches at the bustline, which is the difference between a garment that drapes beautifully and one that is too tight to wear comfortably.
Sizing
This pattern is written for a finished bust measurement of approximately 38 inches, with the side ties giving it flexibility to fit a 34 to 42 inch bust comfortably. The vest sits at hip length, ending about four inches below the natural waist.
To size up significantly — say, for a finished bust over 44 inches — add four extra foundation chains to each panel. To size down for a petite frame, subtract four chains. For length adjustments, simply add or subtract rows before the armhole shaping section. Each two rows added equals approximately half an inch of additional length.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
- ch — chain
- sl st — slip stitch
- sc — single crochet
- hdc — half double crochet
- dc — double crochet
- st(s) — stitch(es)
- RS — right side
- WS — wrong side
- rep — repeat
- yo — yarn over
The Stripe Sequence
Before starting, decide on your stripe sequence. A simple and attractive option is the following, which repeats throughout both panels:
6 rows in Main Color (MC), 2 rows in Color A (CA), 2 rows in Main Color, 4 rows in Color B (CB), 2 rows in Main Color, 2 rows in Color A, then repeat from the beginning.
Feel free to change this up entirely. Wider stripes feel bolder and more graphic. Thinner stripes feel more delicate and vintage. A random stripe sequence where you change color whenever the mood strikes you can look surprisingly cohesive if your color palette is well chosen.
Pattern Instructions: The Back Panel
Foundation: Using MC, chain 68. This gives you a working width of approximately 19 inches, which accounts for the overlap and side ties.
Row 1 (RS): Hdc in the third chain from the hook and in each chain across. You will have 66 hdc. Chain 2 and turn.
Row 2: Hdc in each stitch across. Chain 2 and turn.
Continue working in hdc, following your stripe sequence by changing colors at the end of a row. To change colors cleanly, complete the last hdc of the final row in your current color until the last yarn over — then pull through with the new color. This creates a seamless transition with no muddiness at the color join.
Work even in hdc (no increases or decreases) until your piece measures 13 inches from the foundation chain. This is your body section.
Armhole Shaping: At 13 inches, you will shape the armholes. This is simpler than it sounds — it is just a matter of stopping your rows a few stitches short of the edge.
Row 1 of armhole shaping: Sl st across the first 6 stitches. Chain 2, then hdc across until 6 stitches remain. Leave those 6 stitches unworked. Turn. You now have 54 stitches.
Continue working in hdc across these 54 stitches for 9 more inches. This brings you to the shoulder line.
Neck Shaping for Back Panel: At the shoulder line, you will work each shoulder separately to create the neck opening.
Left shoulder: Hdc across the first 18 stitches. Chain 2, turn. Work 2 more rows on these 18 stitches. Fasten off.
Right shoulder: Skip the center 18 stitches (this forms the back neck opening), rejoin yarn at the next stitch, and work across the final 18 stitches. Work 2 more rows. Fasten off.
Pattern Instructions: The Front Panel
The front panel is worked identically to the back panel, with one difference — the neck shaping is deeper to create a flattering V-neckline or scoop opening.
Foundation through armhole shaping: Work exactly as for the back panel.
Neck Shaping for Front Panel: Once you have completed the armhole shaping and worked approximately 5 inches of the upper body section (rather than the full 9 inches as in the back), begin neck shaping.
Left shoulder: Hdc across the first 18 stitches. Then decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge every row by working the first two stitches together as a hdc decrease. Continue until you have worked 4 inches from the start of neck shaping. Fasten off.
Right shoulder: Rejoin yarn after skipping the center stitches, and mirror the left shoulder shaping. Fasten off.
The center stitches left unworked on the front panel create a wider, deeper neckline than the back. When the panels are seamed at the shoulders, this creates a natural scoop or boho-style wide neck opening.
Finishing the Armhole Edges
Before seaming, work a clean edge around each armhole. With RS facing, join MC at the base of the armhole, and work one round of sc evenly around the armhole opening. Join with a sl st and fasten off. This stabilizes the edges and gives the armhole a polished look that sits flat against the body when worn.
Seaming the Shoulder Seams
Lay your front and back panels with right sides together, aligning the shoulder edges. Using MC and a yarn needle, whipstitch the shoulder seams together. Work through both loops of each stitch for a secure seam that will hold its shape through wear and washing.
If you prefer a less visible seam, use the mattress stitch technique instead — insert your needle under the V of the corresponding stitches on each panel alternately and pull gently to draw the seams together without bunching.
Once both shoulder seams are sewn, turn the vest right side out and try it on to check the fit at the neckline and armholes before moving forward.
The Side Ties
This is the feature that elevates the vest from a simple rectangular project to a styled, intentional garment. The side ties are worked as long crochet chains with a single crochet edging, giving them a flat, ribbon-like quality that ties into a clean bow.
Making the ties: Cut four lengths of MC, each approximately 30 inches long (you can make them longer if you prefer a more dramatic bow or if you want extra room for adjustment). Using two strands held together for sturdiness, chain 80. Single crochet back along the chain. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Alternatively, you can work the ties in a contrasting color for a pop of visual interest — using Color A or Color B from your stripe sequence picks up the palette nicely and makes the ties look intentional rather than like an afterthought.
Attaching the ties: Position the vest on a flat surface and determine where you want the ties to sit. A placement roughly 4 inches up from the bottom edge works well for most figures, creating a lightly cinched effect that suggests a waist without restricting movement. Pin the tie attachment points in place, then sew each tie firmly to the side edge using a yarn needle and a few inches of yarn. Make sure the ties are centered on the side edge so they distribute tension evenly when tied.
You will attach two ties on each side — one to the front panel edge and one to the corresponding point on the back panel edge. When you tie them together, they draw the side seam closed from that point upward, with the lower section hanging open as a side split.
Neckline and Bottom Edging
A simple edging brings the whole piece together and gives it that finished, intentional quality.
Neckline: Join MC at one shoulder seam. Work one row of sc around the entire neckline. For a more decorative touch, work a second row in a contrast color and use a simple shell stitch edge: skip one stitch, work 5 dc in the next stitch, skip one stitch, sl st in the next. This creates a scalloped border that looks beautiful and takes less than 20 minutes.
Bottom edge: Work two rows of sc along the bottom edge. If you want a slightly gathered or bohemian hem, work a crab stitch edging (reverse single crochet) on the final row — it creates a firm, twisted rope edge that lies flat without rolling.
Blocking Your Vest
Blocking is the step many crocheters skip, and it is genuinely transformative. Fill a basin with cool water and a small amount of wool wash or gentle soap, submerge your vest, and let it soak for 15 to 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out the water without wringing, then roll the vest in a dry towel to remove excess moisture.
Lay it flat on a blocking mat or clean dry towel, pin it to your desired measurements, and let it dry completely. Cotton and linen yarns in particular benefit enormously from blocking — the stitches even out, the drape improves, and the whole piece looks more professionally finished.
Styling Your Boho Striped Vest
The beauty of this waistcoat is how many ways you can wear it. Throw it over a fitted white long-sleeve shirt and high-waisted flared jeans with a wide leather belt for a seventies-inspired look. Layer it over a flowy printed maxi dress for a festival-ready outfit. Wear it open over a simple tank top and linen shorts for a beach coverup with personality.
The side ties mean you can adjust the silhouette dramatically — tie them snugly for a more structured, fitted waistcoat look, or leave them loosely tied for a relaxed, draped effect. You can even tie them at the front by crossing the ties and bringing them around to the front, which creates a wrapped, kimono-like style that works beautifully for layering.
Tips for Customizing This Pattern
If you want to add pockets, work two small rectangular pocket panels (approximately 5 by 6 inches) and sew them onto the front panel before assembling the vest. Position them about 2 inches from the bottom edge and 2 inches from the side edge for the most natural placement.
For a longer duster-style vest, add 8 to 10 inches of additional rows to both panels before the armhole shaping. A longer vest looks stunning with bold horizontal stripes and becomes a real statement piece.
For a cropped version, reduce the body section by 4 inches before armhole shaping. A cropped boho vest worn over a high-waisted skirt is one of those combinations that photographs beautifully and feels effortless to wear.
You can also vary the stitch pattern. The half double crochet used throughout this pattern gives a dense, warm fabric, but substituting a mesh stitch or an offset V-stitch for the body section creates a lacier, more open fabric that works well in summer-weight cotton.
Caring for Your Handmade Vest
Hand washing is always the safest option for handmade crochet garments, but many modern yarns are machine washable on a gentle cold cycle. Check your yarn label before throwing it in the machine. Lay flat to dry rather than hanging, as hanging can stretch the fabric and distort the shoulder seams over time.
Store your vest folded rather than on a hanger for the same reason. A cedar block or sachet in your storage area will protect wool-blend yarns from moths.
Final Thoughts
This boho striped side-tie waistcoat is the kind of pattern you will come back to again and again. Once you have the basic construction down, you can make it in every color combination you can imagine, experiment with different edgings, try different yarns, and give them as gifts that people will actually wear. It is approachable enough for a confident beginner and interesting enough to hold the attention of an experienced crocheter who wants a quick, satisfying project.
Most importantly, when you wear it, it is yours in every sense — your color choices, your tension, your hours of making. That is the part that never gets old.
Happy crocheting.
