One Free Crochet Pattern, Two Ways: Asymmetric Mesh Tube Top or Skirt
If you’ve been searching for a crochet pattern that truly earns its place in your project queue, this is the one. A single free crochet pattern that gives you two completely different garments depending on how you wear it — a breezy asymmetric mesh tube top for warm-weather adventures or a flowy mesh skirt that works from the beach to a summer dinner out. The design is deceptively simple, infinitely customizable, and built around a mesh stitch that works up faster than you’d expect.
Whether you’re a confident beginner who’s ready to try garment making for the first time or an experienced crocheter looking for a satisfying weekend project, this pattern has something for you. Let’s dig into everything: the design concept, the yarn and hook recommendations, sizing notes, the full written pattern, styling ideas, and tips for making it your own.
Why One Pattern, Two Garments?
The idea behind this design came from a simple question: what if a single crocheted tube could do double duty in your wardrobe? A tube is one of the most forgiving shapes in crochet — no armhole shaping, no neckline decreases, no tricky seams. It’s essentially a rectangle joined into a circle and worked in the round, which makes it approachable for newer garment makers while still feeling fresh and wearable.
The asymmetric hem is what gives this particular tube its personality. Instead of a straight edge at the top and bottom, one side sits several inches higher than the other, creating a diagonal line that flatters just about every body type. When you wear the tube as a top, that asymmetric hem dips low on one side of your torso, drawing the eye and adding movement. Flip it around, pull it down over your hips, and the same diagonal becomes a chic high-low skirt hem that pairs beautifully with sandals or sneakers.
The open mesh construction keeps the garment lightweight and breathable, and it also means you can layer it easily. Wear it over a swimsuit, a bralette, a bodysuit, or a fitted tank. The mesh is intentionally open enough to be interesting but not so open that you can’t wear it on its own over the right underlayer.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you cast on, let’s talk supplies. Because this is a garment you’ll actually wear, yarn choice matters more than it might for a blanket or dishcloth.
Yarn: You want something with drape. Stiff cotton or bulky acrylic will fight the mesh structure and make the garment feel boxy and heavy. Instead, reach for a cotton-blend yarn, a bamboo blend, or a plant-fiber yarn in a DK or light worsted weight. Some excellent options include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (a perennial favorite for crochet garments), Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, We Are Knitters The Petite Wool (in lighter colors for maximum breathability), or any bamboo-cotton blend you love. You’ll need approximately 300 to 600 yards depending on your size, with larger sizes using more and a longer skirt length using more than the crop top version.
Hook: A 5.0mm (H/8) or 5.5mm (I/9) crochet hook works well for most DK-weight yarns to achieve the open mesh gauge this pattern calls for. Because we want drape and openness, you’re intentionally going up a hook size from what the yarn label suggests. Always swatch.
Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers, scissors, and a soft measuring tape. That’s really it. No buttons, no zipper, no elastic — the tube holds its place through the structure of the mesh and a simple drawstring or tie at the waist if you choose to add one.
Gauge: Approximately 14 stitches and 8 rows = 4 inches in the mesh pattern with the recommended hook and yarn. Gauge is important for garments, so please take the time to make a swatch and block it before you begin. Blocking plant-fiber yarns especially can change your gauge significantly.
Sizing and Measurements
This pattern is written for a tube that measures approximately 12 to 14 inches tall on the short side and 20 to 22 inches tall on the long (asymmetric) side. The width of the tube — which determines whether it fits as a top or skirt — is fully customizable based on your body measurements.
To find your starting chain, measure the widest part of the body section you want it to fit: your bust for the tube top, or your hips for the skirt. You’ll want the tube to have a small amount of negative ease (meaning it’s slightly smaller than your measurement) so it holds its shape, or zero ease if you prefer a relaxed fit. The mesh itself has natural stretch, so don’t size up too much.
A helpful guide for circumferences:
For a tube top, most people with a 32–34 inch bust will want a tube that measures about 28–30 inches around. Those with a 36–38 inch bust typically work best with 32–34 inches of tube circumference. For a 40–42 inch bust, aim for approximately 36–38 inches of circumference. Adjust up or down from there.
For the skirt version, measure your hips and add 2 to 4 inches of ease for a comfortable, wearable fit. The skirt sits at the natural waist or just below it, and the extra ease lets you move freely.
Understanding the Mesh Stitch
The mesh pattern used in this design is made from a simple combination of chain stitches and double crochets, creating an open grid of diamond-shaped spaces. If you’ve ever crocheted a market bag or a lacy shawl, you’ve likely worked a similar structure.
The basic mesh repeat is this: double crochet in a stitch, chain 2, skip 2 stitches, repeat across. On the return row (or the next round if working in the round), you work a double crochet into the top of each double crochet from the previous round and 2 chains into each chain-2 space. This builds up into an elegant, airy fabric that has just enough structure to hold its shape while remaining soft and drapey.
Because you’re working in the round for this garment, you’ll never turn your work. This makes the pattern extremely meditative and easy to pick up and put down, which is a genuine advantage for busy crafters.
The Full Free Pattern
Abbreviations
ch = chain, dc = double crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sp = space, st = stitch, rep = repeat, rnd = round
Pattern Notes
This garment is worked from the bottom hem upward in the round. The asymmetric hem is created by working short rows at the beginning of the project to establish the diagonal edge before joining into the round. Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
Creating the Asymmetric Hem
To create the asymmetric effect, you’ll begin with a foundation chain and work back and forth in short rows to build the diagonal hem before seaming the tube.
Foundation chain: Chain a multiple of 3 plus 1 that equals your desired tube circumference. For example, for a 30-inch circumference tube at the given gauge, chain approximately 106 (this gets you close — adjust based on your personal swatch).
Row 1: Dc in the 4th ch from hook, (ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch) across, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in first ch-2 sp, (ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp) across to last sp, dc in top of turning ch, turn.
Work in this mesh pattern, but here is where the asymmetric shaping begins: instead of working across the full width of your foundation, you’ll work partial rows to build up height on one side.
Continue working Row 2 as written across the full width until your work measures 4 inches from the foundation chain along the shorter side and 8 inches along the longer side. You achieve this by working a few extra rows on one end only — work 2 full rows, then work across only half the stitches, turn, work back, then rejoin and work across the full row again. Repeat this sequence 3 to 4 times to create the diagonal. The exact number of short rows will vary based on your gauge and desired hem angle.
Once your diagonal hem is established, join the short edges of your rectangle together using a slip stitch seam or a flat mattress stitch seam (the latter is virtually invisible and recommended for garments). You now have a tube with an asymmetric hem.
Working the Body in the Round
Join yarn at any point along the top edge of your tube. Place a stitch marker here to mark the beginning of each round.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first ch-2 sp, (ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp) around, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch-3 to join.
Rnd 2 onward: Ch 3, dc in first ch-2 sp, (ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp) around, ch 2, sl st to join.
Repeat Rnd 2 until the body of your tube measures the height you want. For a tube top, most people find that 10 to 14 inches of body height (above the hem section) works well depending on torso length. For the skirt, you may want to work 16 to 22 inches of body height above the hem section to get the coverage you’re looking for.
Finishing the Top Edge
Once you’ve reached your desired length, you have a few options for the top edge. The simplest is a single round of slip stitches worked into the top of each double crochet and 2 slip stitches into each chain space, which creates a neat, firm edge. You can also work a round of reverse single crochet (crab stitch) for a twisted, decorative edge that keeps the mesh from stretching out.
If you’d like a drawstring waist for the skirt version, skip one round of your mesh about 4 rounds from the top edge and work a simple chain-1, skip 1 pattern around instead. This creates a channel through which you can thread a 1-inch wide ribbon or twisted crochet cord.
Weaving in Ends
Weave in all ends securely using your yarn needle, going in at least two directions through the mesh structure to ensure nothing works loose after washing.
Blocking
Wet block your finished garment by soaking it in cool water for about 15 to 20 minutes, gently pressing out the excess water (never wring), and laying it flat to dry in the shape you want. Blocking plant-fiber yarns dramatically improves drape and evening out the mesh, and it’s the difference between a garment that looks handmade and one that looks professionally crafted.
Styling the Tube Top Version
When worn as a top, this asymmetric mesh tube is endlessly versatile. The most popular way to wear it is over a longline bralette or a ribbed crop top in a complementary color, letting the mesh drape over the layer beneath and creating a peekaboo effect that’s completely wearable for daytime.
Pair the mesh tube top with high-waisted wide-leg linen trousers in neutral tones — think sand, white, or sage — and strappy flat sandals for a bohemian summer look. For a beachside vibe, wear it directly over your favorite bikini top with cut-off denim shorts and bare feet. For something a little more polished, layer it over a silky camisole and tuck the shorter asymmetric hem into high-waisted tailored shorts.
The asymmetric hem at the bottom adds a fashion-forward element that makes even a simple denim-and-sandals combination feel curated. And because the mesh is open and breathable, you’ll actually be comfortable wearing it in warm weather rather than sweating through it the way you might with a heavier crocheted top.
Styling the Skirt Version
Flip that same tube down over your hips and suddenly you have a resort-ready skirt that works for everything from a pool deck to a rooftop dinner. The high-low hem created by the asymmetric edge swings beautifully as you walk and creates a naturally elongating silhouette.
Wear the mesh skirt over a swimsuit or bikini bottoms at the beach — it’s easy to pull off and on without losing coverage, and it dries quickly because of the open mesh construction. For an evening look, pair it with a form-fitting tank in a solid color, block-heeled mules, and simple gold jewelry. For a maximalist approach, wear it over wide-leg pants or flowing culottes in a contrasting color, with the mesh skirt acting as a statement overlay.
If you added the drawstring channel, you can cinch the waist for a more defined silhouette or leave it loose and flowing. A twisted crochet cord in the same yarn as the skirt looks seamlessly intentional, while a satin ribbon in a contrasting color adds a touch of whimsy.
Tips for Making This Pattern Your Own
The beauty of a mesh tube is how much room there is for personalization. Here are a few ideas to consider as you plan your project.
Play with color. The mesh stitch looks absolutely stunning in variegated, self-striping, or gradient yarns. Because the pattern itself is so simple, a multicolored yarn does all the decorative heavy lifting. Try a sunset gradient or a tonal colorway that shifts from cream to terracotta.
Add fringe to the asymmetric hem. Cut lengths of yarn about twice the length you want your fringe, fold them in half, and use a crochet hook to attach them through the edge stitches of the diagonal hem. Trim to your desired length. This turns the bottom edge of the skirt or top into a boho statement.
Try a colorblock design. Work the body of the tube in one color and switch to a contrasting yarn for the last 4 to 6 rounds to create a distinct colorblock at the top edge. This works beautifully for the tube top version.
Adjust the mesh scale. Want a smaller, denser mesh with less drape? Use a smaller hook and a chain-1, skip 1 sequence instead of chain-2, skip 2. Want a more dramatic, lacier mesh with maximum drape? Try chain-3, skip 3 with a larger hook.
Add a tie front. Instead of a plain top edge, leave a gap of about 4 inches at the center front in your last few rounds and add long tie chains that you can knot at the chest for a bandeau-style tie-front top.
Caring for Your Crocheted Garment
Once you’ve invested the time and love into making this piece, you want it to last. Most plant-fiber yarns can be hand washed in cool water with a gentle soap — a drop of wool wash or even a small amount of baby shampoo works beautifully. Reshape the garment while it’s damp and lay it flat to dry away from direct sunlight, which can fade colors over time. Avoid the dryer, which can felt or shrink natural fibers and damage the mesh structure.
Store your crocheted tops and skirts folded rather than hung, since the weight of a hanging mesh garment can cause it to stretch out of shape over time.
Final Thoughts
There’s something genuinely exciting about a pattern that gives you more than one answer to the question of what to make. This asymmetric mesh tube is the kind of project that starts as a single item on your to-do list and ends up as two pieces you reach for again and again throughout the warmer months — and honestly, probably into fall when layered over a turtleneck or under a slip dress.
The free pattern here is meant as a starting point. Adjust the length, the width, the yarn, the color, the hem — make every decision yours. That’s the magic of crochet, and it’s the reason so many of us keep coming back to hook and yarn year after year. Happy making.
